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Leah Dowson Performance Horses, Wundowie (2025)

17/07/2025

Thought for the day:

These are not my words. I was planning to write an almost exact post on this subject. But Ian has already written it perfectly
Ian Leighton Horsemanship

I still get asked regularly if I can take a young or green horse to further it’s training.
Often as not the request includes a story about how everything was going ok but then one day outside pressures caused it to act up.
The request is generally to enhance it’s knowledge or change their mindset so that they can handle all types of scenarios and be calmer and better behaved.
Often these requests are never attached to an aside like “can you teach me how I should handle and ride a green or inexperienced horse?”.
The onus is all on the horse to be able to carry (no pun intended) the rider through any situation that may arise and keep them safe.
That is too much responsibility for a young or green horse.
Your horse needs some support and help while it gains experience.
Regardless of your knowledge of horses or riding or a particular discipline you may find a green horse a challenge if you are inexperienced with them.
Many older horses can be much more forgiving of mistakes and have more experience of the world.
It takes more than a stint at a trainers to make an experienced horse.
Often there is a way through but it takes the help of people with the experience. Hands on help.
It also takes a little fortitude and the ability to not make your horse feel trapped with your hands or legs no matter what occurs.
Most of what is called acting up would not have occurred at all if the rider had acted the way the horse needed them to.
The first thing that it takes is the recognition that to ride young or green horses you may need to have yourself trained.

17/07/2025

Something to remember before you even go catch your horse for a ride. It'll make all the difference for your horse. ❤️

15/07/2025

🚫 Deemed Unfit for Use – A Hard but Necessary Conversation 🚫

This is a topic that rarely gets discussed openly.
While I’m proud of my success rate, the reality is that not every horse who comes through my gate is suitable for the job they were intended for. There are times when a horse is deemed unsafe or unfit for use under saddle, and while it’s never an easy decision—especially when working closely with an owner—it is one that must be made with care, responsibility, and honesty.

Some horses present with serious behavioural issues or dangerous vices. Whether those issues can be worked through often comes down to one critical factor: work ethic. A horse's willingness and attitude can mean the difference between a successful riding career, being rehomed to a more suitable situation, being retired to a paddock—or in the most unfortunate cases, being humanely euthanised. I’ve met horses I truly believed were a danger to future riders, and while it’s confronting, safety must come first.

It’s important for owners—especially those purchasing unbroken horses—to understand: you are not starting with a clean slate. You’re buying a horse you haven’t seen ridden, and haven’t ridden yourself. A great relationship on the ground does not guarantee the same connection in the saddle. That’s why part of my role is assessing not just the horse, but also the rider’s ability, experience, and intentions moving forward.

The most concerning situations often arise when owners overestimate—or aren't forthcoming with their riding experience. Breaking in a horse is not about delivering a ready-made schoolmaster. You’re receiving a green horse with developing skills and a need for continued consistent training. Sending a young or challenging horse home to a rider who isn’t confident or capable puts everyone at risk.

When I make the call that a horse isn’t suitable, I don’t wait until the end of their stay. I will usually let the owner know by week two, once ridden work has begun. Occasionally, if I’m unsure, I may take until week three. But I don’t believe in continuing to take your money for a horse I don’t believe will bring you joy or success. When this happens, I give you options: take the horse home, or allow them to stay longer and continue training with full transparency.

Even if a horse leaves my program early, I do my best to support owners by offering guidance and advice on how to move forward safely and realistically.

This job isn’t always sunshine and rainbows. Sometimes, you're the last chance a horse gets. The responsibility of making the right call—for the horse and for the rider—carries real weight.

At the end of the day, you don’t pay me to tell you what you want to hear—you pay me to tell you the truth.

14/07/2025

⚠️ Cancellations & Waitlist Update ⚠️

Three years ago, I made the decision to discontinue the standby list. Each year, the list grew longer, and with very few cancellations, it became increasingly difficult to accommodate everyone—often resulting in disappointment for those who missed out. Unfortunately the waitlist, isn't returning.

Please note that I am typically booked 6 to 9 months in advance, so forward planning is essential when considering booking your horse in for breaking in.

Any cancelled spots will be advertised as they become available and will be offered on a first-come, first-served basis.

A non-refundable booking fee is required to secure your place. This fee is deducted from your total training cost. You may transfer your booking to a different horse, provided the new horse can fill the entire allocated training period.

The booking fee must be paid within 7 days of the spot being offered, or it will be passed on to the next person on the list.

Thank you for your continued support.
Kind regards,

Leah x

14/07/2025

Lesson Information – LDPH

Lessons at LDPH are held Monday to Friday, with the occasional Saturday available, and take place on-property in El Caballo.

Our coaching covers a wide range of areas including groundwork, long reining, mouthing, in-hand work, showmanship, under-saddle training, and obstacle navigation. All sessions are conducted one-on-one to ensure each rider receives personalised attention and maximum value from their time.

Worried about float parking? No need — we offer a spacious float parking area with easy access. No reversing skills required!

Lesson Fee for 2025: $80 per session
(Duration: 45 minutes to 1 hour, depending on the horse's progress.)

• Please arrive early enough to tack up and prepare your horse before your scheduled lesson time. Your lesson start time is not your arrival time.

• If the arena is being graded when you arrive, kindly wait until it is finished before entering.

• Dogs are not permitted on the property — please leave them at home.

• Dispose of all rubbish in the bins provided or take it with you when you leave.

• All riders must wear an approved safety helmet and appropriate riding footwear.

Thank you for your cooperation and understanding ❤️

14/07/2025

Today was CC's turn to see the dentist. All horses coming to be started must be up to date with dental work. 🧡

12/07/2025

Why I Don’t Disengage the Hindquarters

This might ruffle a few feathers—or it might just be your lightbulb moment.

Throughout our riding careers, regardless of discipline, we spend countless hours teaching horses to shift their weight onto their hindquarters and engage their back end. It's a foundational principle of balance, athleticism, and proper movement.

So why, then, do so many riders routinely ask their horse to disengage the hind—essentially shifting weight onto the forehand to move the hindquarters away? If that already sounds counterproductive, you’d be right.
Disengaging the hind isn’t a natural movement for horses. Watch them in the paddock—they use their hind end for power and stability, and their shoulders to turn. Yet, in the early 2000s, disengaging became all the rage. It was easy to teach, quick to achieve, and gave riders a false sense of accomplishment. But over time, it created horses that were hollow, heavy on the forehand, and disconnected through the body.

Some horses are particularly sensitive to this pattern. A client once brought me a horse who had attended a clinic where disengaging was drilled extensively. In just that short time, the horse became unbalanced, tense, and responsive in all the wrong ways—hollow through the back, reactive to the leg, and constantly dumping weight on the forehand. It took weeks of retraining just to undo the confusion.
Only once the horse began to shift weight back onto the hindquarters did we see real change: balance returned, steering improved, and the horse softened and began to re-engage through the core.

Do I teach disengaging? Occasionally, yes—but sparingly, and never as a repeated drill. I believe in having control over all four feet, especially in certain situations where it's necessary. But I don’t make a habit of it.
When we steer a horse correctly, we use their shoulders for direction. Think of the shoulders as your steering wheel, and the bit as the headlights. Overusing disengagement shifts the horse’s weight forward, locking up the shoulders and making steering more difficult. Riders then find themselves relying on the bit for control—something we work so hard to avoid.

And to those who say they use disengagement for “safety”: ask yourself this—if you're heading toward a potential accident, would you rather yank the handbrake and skid, or have the steering and balance to navigate around it? I know which one I’d choose.

So Where Do We Go From Here?
As riders, the question becomes—what’s the alternative to disengaging the hind?
The answer lies in the turn on the haunches. This natural, balanced movement keeps the horse’s weight where it belongs—on the hindquarters—while engaging the core, encouraging soft transitions, and promoting true body alignment. As your horse becomes more balanced and engaged, you’ll notice a lightness in both your hand and seat. Riding starts to feel effortless again—connected, responsive, and enjoyable.

Not sure where to begin? I’d love to help. Book a lesson with me and start building that balanced, responsive partnership from the ground up.

09/07/2025

Some slightly faster work for The CAT today. 🧡🧡

04/07/2025

With so much emphasis on training Bob to use body and shoulders correctly, his first trot is super smooth, relaxed and balanced. ❤️

03/07/2025

No matter the discipline, biomechanics should be at the forefront of every ride and training session.

However, focusing solely on the horse only solves half the puzzle. True harmony requires both horse and rider to be in sync. Many issues arise when riders ask for movements or cues without first preparing themselves—or their horses—correctly.

While "biomechanics" might sound like an intimidating term, the changes needed to make a real difference are often small but highly effective. These subtle adjustments can dramatically improve how your horse moves and responds.

If you're unsure where to start, you're not alone. My lessons are built around helping riders understand and apply the principles of biomechanics in a clear and practical way.

In the photo: This horse has had just four rides focused on posture and correct movement through biomechanics. Already, his back is lifted, and he's showing a clear improvement in comfort and body awareness.

02/07/2025

😴Boredom in the Arena🥱
“I don’t know what I’m meant to be doing.”
“I don’t enjoy arena work.”
“My horse misbehaves and is arena sour.”

These are common frustrations I hear from riders. My number one tip? Have a plan.
Before you ride, choose three specific things to work on. If one of those areas shows real improvement during the session, finish on that positive note. Once something is going consistently well, swap it out for a new focus—but always keep your ride centered around just three key goals.

Not sure what needs improvement?
Start your warm-up by riding through a dressage test. Be honest with yourself about where things fell apart. Use those weak spots to shape your ride plan.

The arena should never feel boring—and if it does, it might be time to rethink your approach.

Leah Dowson Performance Horses

17/07/2025

17/07/2025

15/07/2025

14/07/2025

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Monday	8am - 4pm
Tuesday	8am - 4pm
Wednesday	8am - 4pm
Thursday	8am - 4pm
Friday	8am - 4pm