10/16/2026
Nobody warns you how fast it gets cold up in the Atlas once the sun drops behind the ridge.
In October you can be in a t-shirt at four in the afternoon and reaching for a jacket by six. Up around 1,800 metres the temperature just falls off a cliff the moment the light goes.
Which is why the evening is my favourite part. You come in off the trail, someone drapes a thick wool blanket over your shoulders before you've even sat down, there's a brazier of coals glowing in the corner, and the tagine has been cooking slowly since the afternoon. Outside it's cold and completely dark. Inside it's warm and smells of woodsmoke.
People message me about that evening more than the mountain they climbed that day.
The guesthouse itself belongs to a Berber family we've worked with for years, not to us. What we do is get you there, with a driver who knows the road, and put you with the right family. Want a night like that in your trip? Send me a message.