09/08/2026
THE WILD ONES, FIRST GROUP TOUR IN CONTINENTAL EUROPE:
We weren't a biker gang and we didn't call ourselves the Wild Ones, or any other club name. But like a lot of bikers in the early 80s we cultivated a tough image and truth be told we were actually wild and tough. Even by the conventional biker image standards of the time.
By 1984 I had completely dismantled and rebuilt the Triumph Bonneville twice. It was now all black with high rise bars. It had been tuned with the addition of several more high performance parts and courtesy of a bad shot blasting and stove enameling company, it's life expectancy had been dramatically shortened. I was keeping it going with intensive care.
My marriage had broken down, I was effectively a single parent, I had qualified as a state registered nurse and I had new employment working as a specialist in a Regional Burns and Plastic Surgery unit.
I'd furnished my flat with smart and mostly new furniture and appliances. My lovely new girlfriend had helped me to decorate it. We'd got a larger second-hand colour TV and the only thing that was on my to get list was a telephone.
With parental support for childcare arrangements, I was still getting out on the bike to meet up with friends twice a week and we'd agreed to tour on our bikes to the South of France together in the summer (ish) of 1984.
None of us had much money and we all agreed to ride two up and to share the costs.
With only a couple of weeks to go, my lovely girlfriend announced that she hadn't saved up enough money and therefore wouldn't be riding pillion.
A stranger who I met in a biker pub who knew my girlfriend asked could he come in her place and needing the financial support, I quickly agreed.
So it was that I set off from Liverpool with a long blonde haired man on pillion instead of a long blonde haired woman.
There were three, two up bikes leaving Liverpool. My Triumph Bonneville and two Norton Commandos. We were meeting up with another couple riding a Honda 900F at London.
We'd barely cleared Liverpool on the M62 when the rear tyre on my bike disintegrated.
The bike crashed and we went on a long slide onto the hard shoulder. There was considerable damage to the bike and the road surface had ripped open my denim jeans and caused a painful gravel rash to my thigh. Fortunately my pillion passenger, Goog wasn't injured.
My friends stayed with the bike and supervised the RAC recovery back to my flat.
I had an ambulance ride to hospital and was treated for my injury. Fortunately I was not kept in and managed to get a couple of hours sleep at home before the start of a busy day.
I took the remnants of the rear tyre and the whole of the front tyre to the supplier. The tyre walls were mysteriously cracked and although the supplier who had supplied the tyres only a few months before didn't admit liability, he gave me a good deal on new tyres.
I then trawled dealerships for parts to make repairs. What parts weren't in stock, I managed to borrow from friends and with everything fitted, within 24 hours of the crash we were rolling again.
Still only three bikes with pillion passengers and motorway all the way to London. But there is something magical about riding in a group with friends.
Ken, Sue and a crowd of their courier biker friends met us at at the London Gateway roundabout at the bottom.of the M1. The police were present and getting twitchy about this big biker gathering on a major roundabout and were appealing through loudspeakers for us to move on.
We moved on to a small apartment somewhere in London, where there was a wild but short-lived party. There was barely enough floor, sofa and chair space for us all to get a couple of hours rest and then in the small hours the couriers gave us a tour through central London, passing Buckingham Palace and through the Blackwall tunnel where we parted company and 8 of us on 4 bikes made the rest of our way to Dover.
By mid afternoon we were all exhausted and turned off the main road to set up camp at the French coastal town of St. Valery.
We popped into town to collect food and copious amounts of b**r from the shops. But after eating I could only manage a couple of bottles before collapsing exhausted on the grass by my tent.
In the morning we were all nicely rested and headed towards Paris.
We then turned off the main road to circle around Paris and were determined to take the back roads all the way to the South and using the Bison Fute scenic route map I'd picked up in 1981.
We didn't see a lot of other bikes on our route and our presence seemed to draw a lot of attention from the locals.
I was at the rear of the group as we descended from the Jura mountains towards Geneva. The bikes ahead were taking turns to overtake a large slow moving truck. As Steve and Tony who were in front of me took their turn and were alongside the truck, their rear tyre began to rapidly deflate.
They got to within inches of the trailer wheels, but somehow Steve managed to keep the bike upright and when the road levelled out, to pull over onto a grass verge.
Steve knew his bike and we had a good collection of tools and puncture repair kits with us, so we were soon on the road again.
Crossing the border into Geneva, Switzerland, the border police didn't like the look of us. We were ordered to pull over and surrender our passports for examination.
They detained us there for a couple of hours until a police drugs dog had been walked around us and the bikes. Must have been a crap sniffer dog, because it didn't detect the cannabis Goog had stuffed into the fingers of his gloves and we were all allowed to continue.
The traffic in Geneva was heavy and the road signs were difficult to follow, so we returned to France and headed towards Annecy via another border post.
We were now entering the Alps and a memorable stop was at the bridges, Ponts de la Caille north of Annecy.
Motorcycle publications were by now just beginning to feature motorcycle touring and they all touted the Route Napoleon through the Alps as the best biker road in France, so we made our way over to the foot of that just South of Grenoble
The campsite I had stayed on on in 1981was closed for staff holidays, so we stated to climb into the mountains and along a narrow mountain track to a signposted campsite.
When we arrived it was starting to rain, so we hastily erected our tents and settled in before the rain came down heavier.
It rained all night and in the morning we were surrounded by mist shrouded mountain.
There was no campsite shop but the campsite owner helped us out with a bit of milk, so we could make ourselves hot drinks before we hit the road.
For the first time on the tour so far, we broke out our wet weather gear. An odd assortment of road workers and fishermen's jackets and pants. Some of it not very waterproof at all.
Having skipped a proper breakfast, a timely arrival before the 1.30pm deadline for lunch at Sisteron was a must. Again we parked opposite the spectacular Rocher de Baume cliffs.
Later in the day we stopped for another refreshments break at the scenic town of Castellane.
We pushed on to the coast and I know from photographs I have not shared here, that night was falling before we got to Les Tournels campsite and they wouldn't let us on.
We tried further down the coast at the other campsite I had stayed at previously, but that was full.
We travelled further inland and at the end of the road we fell upon the magnificent Do**he de Quietude campsite and they let us pitch there.
Here we stayed until ready to head back home. The campsite boasted a great swimming pool complex and a lively bar restaurant.
There were young single British women there who were holidaying in a family mobile home and enjoyed joining in with our noisy and boisterous antics. Which included some of us dressing up for a drag act at the bar.
At first, the ex French Foreign Legion campsite security, guard, Kurt, thought we were a bit troublesome. But he seemed to change his mind during the drag act when he downgraded us to being a handful.
We met two other British biker lads who had travelled there on a Laverda Jota. They joined in the fun and became part of the group for the ride back home.
Also a compared to us, oldish British bloke who'd taken a pretty young woman there on the back of his brick BMW bike.
I've always been a bit creeped out by old wealthy blokes hooking up with pretty young women, so although she was pleasant, I wasn't too sure about him. They both joined in the fun and games though.
This is the other thing about touring with a group of friends. You take your own entertainment with you.
In addition to the coastal town of Agay there were the more upmarket towns of St Raphael and Frejus just a little further up from the coast and accessed more directly by a backroad. They have a lively scene both day and night.
Because the beaches are topless and naturist we thought it best that the married couples go off on their own while we single blokes went into town and hung out together in the day and the whole group met up again in the evening.
I spent a night on the beach with some pretty back packer ladies and found myself getting told off by the rest of the group, because these wild women could have stabbed and robbed me.
This despite Goog having gone up a dimly lit side road to buy some cannabis from a dealer the night before and a drunken plan to set off some fireworks we had bought near the gate of a nearby French Marines camp and guarded by armed soldiers.
Riding through the Alps the Primary chain tensioner on my bike had snapped and needed replacement before going home. In the UK the part cost about £3 and for safety I really needed to change it before going home.
I had a list of Triumph dealers and saw there was one in Cannes. It was a common part to fail and I felt there was a good chance they would have one in stock.
Steve offered to follow behind me and run me back to the campsite if I needed that.
It was a roasting hot sunny day and I recklessly decided to wear just shorts and canvas shoes, with my helmet strapped to the seat behind me.
It was compulsory wear of helmets for all bikes over 250cc in France at the time. But most Japanese 250cc bikes were no smaller than the Bonneville and riding without a helmet on seemed popular with the riders of all manner of bikes along the coastal road at the time.
On the beautiful Corniche D'Or coastal road, there were girls leaning out of open top cars to hug and kiss me when I pulled up alongside them at traffic lights in the little towns we passed through.
I imagined that I might have been mistaken for solme sort of celebrity, with big and bearded Steve as some sort of body guard following close behind me. Steve was sun sensitive, so he was wearing his trademark jeans and checked full sleeve shirt regardless of the heat.
Cannes is a big city and the street name for the Triumph dealer wasn't on a tourist street map I had popped into a tourist information shop for. I'd put my helmet on for riding in the city and was able to ask a police officer who showed me roughly where the dealership was on my tourist map.
When we found the dealership, it was tiny and they didn't have the part in stock. They could order one, but I would be back in the UK before it arrived.
Plan B was ro get the bike recovered to a repair centre and hire a car, all of which was covered on my insurance and without any upfront costs to me.
If the bike was fixed before we were due to return to the UK, all well and good and if not Goog and I would have to return in the car.
While awaiting for the bike to be recovered to a repair centre, I got a lift into Frejus town to collect a rental car. The only car they'd give me was a tiny 1 litre engined Talbot Samba.
As I got back to campsite I saw that my bike had been thrown on its side on top of an old tractor tyre on the back of a flatback truck and was being driven away. The guys back at the campsite who were supposed to supervise collection, said the recovery blokes didn't speak English and just did it quickly.
It was difficult to keep up with the bikes while driving back through the Alps in the Talbot Samba. The repair centre said they had decided to just ship the Bonneville back to my address in the UK.
When we stopped at Castellane for refreshments we had attracted the attention of two Gendarmes.
They wanted to know why a French registered car was driving around with a group of UK registered bikes. A heavy set Gendarme lit a fat cigar and started to provocatively blow smoke into my face. He asked to see the rental documents. Bearing in mind our conversation was all in French and I was struggling to explain myself, it was quite a scary situation. It was because I was the only person trying to communicate with him that he had singled me out and I had a feeling that if I snapped with him it wouldn't end well.
He argued that the rental agreement didn't permit me to carry passengers. I read out in French the section where it said I could carry no more than three passengers, but he insisted none.
I told the group to go on without me, I would meet up with them again either at Sisteron, or at the campsite in Grenoble in the evening. I told Goog to walk to the edge of town and wait for me inside the supermarket there.
I would grab a coffee in a café and hopefully they would get fed up intimidating me and just go away.
I slowly sipped my coffee with the Gendarmes waiting outside in their car. Then I slowly drove to the supermarket, parked on the car park and went inside. The Gendarmes followed me and waited outside, while Goog and I hid behind the shelves, peeking out at them.
After about 20 minutes they drove off, but in the direction of Sisteron. Where we were going.
We both thought it was likely they would be waiting for us up the road, so after a quick consultation with a map, we decided to drive back the way we had come for a bit and take a long detour on minor roads to Grenoble.
This meant that we bypassed Sisteron, but after all this time it would be unlikely that the group waited for us there.
In escaping the clutches of the nasty Gendarmes we were not to see the rest of the group until we were back in the UK.
The group had waited at Sisteron and had eventually booked onto a campsite there.
We got to the arranged meet at the campsite in Grenoble and there was none of the group there.
Mobile phones and Internet did not exist in 1984 and we had no means of communication with them.
In the morning we decided to bolt for home as quickly as we could.
On the motorway coming up to the Paris Perephique ring road, we came into queuing traffic behind an accident. Until the road was cleared nobody was going anywhere. This should have been clear to all, but the French drivers were beeping their horns to express annoyance.
Rather than creep just a few yards forward I decided to leave a bit of space in front. The car behind us nudged up to our back bumper and started to push us forward. Still angry over the Gendarmes incident, I saw red. The insurance for our little car included full collision damage indemnity. So I selected reverse, let the handbrake off and pushed back with all the power the little engine could muster.
Goog was thrilled with the terrified expression on the other car drivers face and told me when the back of his car was just short of the front of the car behind him, so I could let off the push back.
By nightfall we had made Abbeyville and rather than camp we booked into a hotel.
By the time we got to the port, the engine had blown and the car was trailing smoke.
The drop off point staff were sympathetic because they couldn't see the sense in us having been given such a small engined car for such a long journey.
We were given another insurance arranged rental car to drive home from Dover and by early evening our tour was over.
I still had one day of leave left. In the morning I drove to get the £3 part I needed to fix the bike, before I took the rental car to the Liverpool Airport drop off point.
Late afternoon, I unexpectedly took delivery of my bike which had been shipped back from France pronto.
It had been damaged from rough treatment in transport and it transpired that this was an unrecoverable loss. It took me only about 45 minutes to fit the part, so at least I had transport with which to get to and from work the next day.
Once again the tour was a great adventure, warts and all. But I knew the next time I toured, it would not be on a Triumph Bonneville.