03/08/2026
Portmeirion - Vanity or Vision?
Clough Williams-Ellis bought this stretch of coast in 1925, called it a “neglected wilderness,” and spent the next fifty years building an invented Italianate village out of it — a fictional harbour town, pastel-coloured, wildly theatrical, and to me, extremely weird. Much of it was assembled from salvaged fragments of buildings demolished elsewhere in Wales and Cheshire, which he called his “home for fallen buildings.”
He wanted to prove Portmeirion could be both beautiful and commercially viable and that “sensitive” development could enhance a landscape rather than ruin it. At the same time, he was a founding figure in the campaign to protect the English and Welsh countryside from careless building — which strikes me as rather ironic, given he saw no contradiction in building the most extraordinarily artificial village imaginable a few miles down the same coast. I’m aware this makes me sound faintly insufferable when really we could just enjoy it, eat our ice creams and revel in the views….
Still, it was built in a region where the slate industry, once employing tens of thousands, was already collapsing. And I certainly couldn’t work out who actually benefited beyond the man who built it. If it wasn’t just one big vanity project, I’d love to know more. What I will say: today, whatever the original motives, it clearly brings real tourism and income into this part of Wales, which can only be a good thing. And the ice-creams were delicious.