14/09/2026
There’s another Greece beyond the islands.
Head north, deep into Epirus, and the whitewashed villages and blue Aegean fade away to something altogether different: forested mountains, deep gorges, icy turquoise rivers and centuries-old stone villages tucked beneath towering limestone peaks.
And Papigo, in the heart of Zagori, delivers all of it.
Days here are all about hiking, swimming and wandering cobbled lanes between slate-roofed houses. Evenings are slow, cool and wonderfully quiet.
Stay at Saxonis Houses, a beautifully restored 19th-century village house tucked into the backstreets of Papigo. Whitewashed walls, timber ceilings, colorful kilims, a flower-filled garden and the kind of warm, unfussy hospitality that makes a place memorable.
And eat at Astra (Astra Inn Papigo | Restaurant Papigo)There are several good tables in Papigo, but for me, this is by far the best. Local ingredients, traditional Epirus cooking and the best meal we had in the village.
It’s a side of Greece most visitors never see — and a reminder that some of the country’s greatest landscapes are nowhere near the sea.