22/03/2025
GRAB A COFFEE/TEA/GIN
or whatever you fancy this is a long one!
Split to Dubrovnik in one week... What we REALLY think!
Back in 2016, our first year working here in Croatia together, we ran a 49ft four cabin yacht named Sea Princess. We worked for a relatively new company back then and the trips we ran were based on a seven-day itinerary beginning in Split (well, Kaštela) and ending in Dubrovnik. Or vice versa. We did 22 weeks straight and learned a lot about the kinds of trips we wanted to organise for our future clients.
One of our biggest takeaways from that time was that we do not like or recommend a seven day itinerary from Split to Dubrovnik. Or vice versa. Which comes as a surprise to many prospective clients that we speak to. After all, many of the Croatia sailing trips you will find online promote this exact type of itinerary. And yet, we prefer to promote something different: Leaving from and returning to the same port. Especially if your charter company is based in the Split area.
Here's why:
- Schedule versus Weather
Having a destination that differs from your starting location means having a set schedule. A certain amount of miles will need to be covered each day you are on the yacht in order to get where you need to go, either Split or Dubrovnik, at the end of the week.
Having a set schedule means that you don't get to enjoy what sailing is really all about: harnessing the weather and allowing it to shape your trip. Instead, your trip is rigidly dictated by the miles you have to cover each day to get to your final destination. This means long hours on the water underway. If the wind is right and you get to sail, this can be fun and engaging for everyone on-board. And quick too if your Skipper gets the sail trim right!
And yet, if the weather is against you, with the an angle of wind that isn't conducive to your planned direction or a rocky swell from last night's weather system further out in the Adriatic, your Skipper still needs to do whatever is required to make it to your planned port. Even if this takes longer or is uncomfortable, or just burns diesel (which you're usually paying for as the charterer!). And don’t forget, the heat in the thick of the summer season here can be brutal. A long still flat passage can be roasty hot, with everyone on-board clamouring to make the most of the shade under the bimini all the while collectively dreaming of a swim-stop that there simply isn't time for.
Another part of the schedule vs weather point is that most ports are not comfortable in ALL winds and weather situations. Some town piers may be protected in south east winds, but lumpy and uncomfortable when a southeast swell wraps around the entrance and rolls into the bay itself (here’s looking at YOU Komiža!). On a fixed Split to Dubrovnik itinerary, you just get through the night best you can. But with more flexibility, you could choose to anchor, moor or dock elsewhere for a more comfortable night’s sleep. We know which option we prefer!
- "Pomalo"
One of the phrases that we learned out here on the islands is “pomalo”. A beautiful word that defines the lifestyle and state of mind of many who live here. Meaning to slow down, relax, savour each step and spend time, this word really embodies what we love about sailing in this part of the world. The time spent, the slowness and the opportunity it gives you to quiet your mind and truly relax. This “pomalo” concept is a real Dalmatian gift and it is such a shame that so many visitors to this part of the world dont get to experience it because they are told that a fly-by itinerary is the way to go.
Often, when miles need to be covered to make it to Dubrovnik, it means early mornings leaving the port. And you may not get into the next port until it is time to head to dinner, a haste which leaves you little to no time to explore. This time crunch also affects your experience of the Croatian islands. You dont get the lazy mornings spent watching small island village communities come to life. You miss out on exploring the island further afield than the port you are docked in. Which is such a shame because there are some very unique excursions on offer, such as a wine tasting in a historical military tunnel!
And, most importantly to us, you miss out on one of Croatia’s most dearly held traditional rituals: a slow morning coffee. A staple of the culture, sitting with the locals and nursing your morning coffee is one Croatian experience that we urge all of our guests to partake in. No take-away cups. No quick five minute espresso at the bar. This long seemingly leisurely coffee is the backbone of these communities. And being a part of it is truly special.
- No Space for Spontaneity
Another factor to consider is that your swim stops during the day are limited and finite. Your departure times are fixed. And that each port reservation made for the night needs to be honoured. There is little to no room for spontaneity or whim. Which is such a shame, as we find that whims often make room for unexpected delights. Especially here in the picturesque Croatian bays and coves. And there are SO MANY bays and coves and anchorages and moorings and other random gorgeous little nooks to see and explore. Between Split and Dubrovnik, Nick has about 150 pins of places he has saved to recommend and visit on our trips and using in itinerary plans we create. And he is constantly adding to this list! There is just so much to see, and on a fixed itinerary you end up sailing past all of these places!
We much prefer the flexibility to stay a little longer if our guests like a particular spot, or even looking for one of Nick’s many pins to see if there is a konoba nearby so we don’t necessarily have to go far to find our spot for the night. We have even had guests that fell in love with a village or town so much that they asked to stay a second night or return later in the week. And we are always very happy to oblige if we can. We well know the allure of these gorgeous little places and their compelling summer atmosphere. Not having a set itinerary means that we can accommodate spontaneous requests like these.
ARE WE REFERRING TO ALL YACHTS???
Now when we are talking about these Split to Dubrovnik itineraries, we are not referring to a trip on one of those large cabin cruisers or gulets. Those boats are made to make way! They are designed to go faster and are heavier, so are less affected by certain weather systems. They are also better equipped to make the passages comfortable for their guests.
Nor are we referring to the luxury crewed catamaran trips, which again are faster and more equipped as vessels to make this trip, long with the fact that you have a crew to do the early mornings and get the schedule moving.
We are talking about the kinds of yachts that are often bareboat chartered, with or without a Skipper, around the 40-55ft. The smaller the yacht, the less engine power it has to make these longer passages. Nick has always said that anything under 42ft just doesn't have the legs to (comfortably) cover the distances required for a seven day itinerary between Croatia's two most famous cities.
And we realise that some of you come to Croatia specifically for the sailing. You love long passages, hire gennakars to help you make the most of light winds, and anchoring overnight in the general direction of your end destination doesn't phase you. This recommendation is not for you!
Our dislike of the fixed itineraries between Split and Dubrovnik is really aimed at those new to Croatia, those who want to immerse themselves in the culture of this beautiful coastline, and experience the Adriatic the way holidaymakers and seafarers have been doing for almost two hundred years.
This whole area is so rich in places to see, bays to spend time in, villages and islands to explore, coffee to drink and food to eat! We just think that you get so short-changed when you whip through the islands at speed, and spend most of the week travelling in-between islands instead of getting to know them.
And this is one of the reasons we strongly encourage you to take advantage of an obligation-free Discovery Call with Nick. When you work with Nick and our team at 45 Degrees Sailing, you’re working with a group of people that LOVE this part of the world and that aren't happy with the stock standard advice on itineraries you hear from other agents.
We want to help you build an itinerary and sailing vacation that is going to have you fall head-over-heels in-love with Dalmatia.
Let us make your 2025 sailing season relaxing and full of "pomalo"!
AND tell us what you think ....
We are passionate about helping others come to Croatia for an amazing sailing adventure I fell in love with the thrill immediately. It just made sense.
