29/07/2026
I’ve been so busy eating my way through North America this past week that I completely missed highlighting a Japanese culinary custom - Doyo no Ushi no Hi (quite literally “the day of the ox in the period before a seasonal change”).
In the past, all days - as well as years, months and even two-hour blocks of time - were associated with one of the twelve zodiac animals. And the doyo period referred to the 18 day period before a new season would begin. Yup, that’s right - according to the old calendar, autumn began around August 3. How I wish that were true now!
For this post’s purposes, we’re talking about the tradition of chowing down on a bowl of grilled river eel during the summer doyo period in the hopes of beating the heat.
It all started when an eel seller in the Edo Period (1603-1868) came up with a great advertising campaign to boost sales in the typically sluggish summer season. The rationale is a tad complicated, but if you eat foods beginning with a “u” sound (unagi, umeboshi, udon), you’ll feel as cool as the month of December, which was known in the old calendar as the month of the ox (or “ushi” in Japanese - hence the “u” conncection).
The original seller’s marketing genius lives on today and supermarkets are filled with filets of eel in the weeks leading up to the yearly event.
Since the concept of “doyo” is tied to the zodiac, some years we have two days of the ox that fall in this span. This year, we only had one day - July 26.
If you want to go out for eel anytime of year, consider a trip to Narita (the town, not the airport). Numerous eel eateries line the main road leading to the famed Naritasan Shinsho-ji temple. Kawagoe, in Saitama Prefecture, is also famous for eel, as is Yanagawa in Fukuoka Prefecture. For those in Tokyo, Shibamata is also a great option.