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While Japan in May becomes awash in “shinryoku” (new green leaves), some of my favorite places to spot this color are Ja...
22/05/2026

While Japan in May becomes awash in “shinryoku” (new green leaves), some of my favorite places to spot this color are Japan’s tea fields.

Tea has been in Japan since the 8th century, brought by Buddhist monks returning from travels in China. It was primarily used for medicinal and ritual purposes.

When the monk Eichu served tea to Emperor Saga in 815, the monarch was so taken with the beverage he ordered the planting of tea bushes to the south of Kyoto.

Today, the region of Uji (a short train ride south of Kyoto) is known as a top producer of high grade matcha and a place to enjoy the scenery of Japan’s tea fields.

But it’s not the only location. Over the years, I’ve admired the tea bushes in places as varied as Kagoshima, Kumamoto, Fukuoka, Shiga, Kochi, Shizuoka and Kanagawa prefectures.

The first batch of tea leaves for 2026 was harvested during Golden Week, so I am looking forward to enjoying my morning cup of shincha (new tea) in the weeks ahead!

13/05/2026

Not a fan of roses? Keisei Rose Garden will change your mind.

This plant nursery just an hour or so outside of Tokyo in neighboring Chiba Prefecture is home to 10,000 rose bushes of 1600 varieties. Add to that arches, pergolas, winding paths and one very cool rainbow-hued rose-inspired sculpture and this garden becomes a must-visit during its high season (early May to mid June).

💴 ¥2000
🚞 Yachiyomidorigaoka Station (plus bus ride or shaded 20 min walk)
🍽️ Rose-themed restaurant on site

10/05/2026

Italy in April was the perfect break from Japan. Food, flowers, Florence … my two week adventure began with a long city break in Tuscany and it couldn’t have been better.

Today (May 4) is Greenery Day here in Japan, a holiday during Golden Week designed to link up Constitution Day and Child...
04/05/2026

Today (May 4) is Greenery Day here in Japan, a holiday during Golden Week designed to link up Constitution Day and Children’s Day to give people an excuse for consecutive days off.

Its vague purpose is to celebrate Emperor Meiji’s love of plants and parks and gardens that usually charge admission are often free on this day.

In honor of Greenery Day, here are a few of my favorite green photos from my years in Japan.

Happy Golden Week! While this period actually has four holidays, the most recognized one is Children’s Day (Kodomo no Hi...
02/05/2026

Happy Golden Week! While this period actually has four holidays, the most recognized one is Children’s Day (Kodomo no Hi/こどもの日) on May 5th.

While today we celebrate Children’s Day for all kids, many of the symbols associated with this holiday draw on the holiday’s historic origins as Tango no Sekku, or Boy’s Day, one of the five cultural festival of the imperial court.

Here are some things to look out for:

🎏 Carp streamers (koinobori)
Carp streamers, or koinobori, flutter all across Japan in early May. The carp represents a fish in Chinese mythology that swam upstream and turned into a dragon. Samurai families hoped their male children would show the same resilience and fortitude. Today, the flags are flown for children of both sexes, in hopes they will grow up to be healthy and strong.

🍂 Kashiwa Mochi
It’s common to see mochi (pounded rice) filled with bean paste or white miso and wrapped in oak leaves as a treat served on and around Children’s Day. The oak leaf symbolizes prosperity and the continuation of family lines. Be sure not to eat the leaf!

🟣 Irises and sweet flag
These plants are also a symbol of Tango no Sekku. The word for both sweet flag and iris (shōbu) is also the same pronunciation as “warlike spirit” or “duel” (just with different kanji). These two plants’ leaves also happen to be shaped like swords. A boy bathing in an iris bath on May 5th would hopefully be imbued with the strength and spirit of a samurai. While sweet flag was the original plant associated with the holiday, it doesn’t have a pretty flower. Over time, given that the bloom period of the Japanese iris corresponds with the timing of Children’s Day, the iris became the more popular motif.

⚔️ Kabuto (samurai helmets)
Families with boys will often set out a samurai helmet, known as a kabuto, or even an entire suit of armor in the alcove of their home to celebrate the holiday. As with the other symbols, the hope is for their boys to grow up with the strength of a warrior. Did you know that the samurai kabuto was allegedly the inspiration for Darth Vader’s helmet?

It’s wisteria season in Japan. These vines with beautiful purple blooms have long been a revered part of Japanese cultur...
24/04/2026

It’s wisteria season in Japan. These vines with beautiful purple blooms have long been a revered part of Japanese culture, from their first mention in the Kojiki (Japan’s oldest historical narrative dating from 712 AD) to the use of their fibers in woven products.

While the stunning trellises of Kawachi Fujien in Fukuoka and Ashikaga (Tochigi) will always be my favorite spots to view this flower, here are a few more options to enjoy wisteria in the Tokyo region:

🟣 Kameido Tenjin (Tokyo)
The old Edo-era favorite in eastern Tokyo provides the color contrast of purple flowers and red bridges, all around a series of ponds.
Station: Kinshicho or Kameido and walk 10-12 minutes

🟣 Nishiarai Daishi Temple (Tokyo)
A beautiful wisteria trellis and a bonus peony garden at this (relatively) little-visited temple.
Station: Daishi-mae

🟣 Hie Shrine (Tokyo)
A beautiful long wisteria trellis in the main precincts of this venerable shrine.
Station: Akasaka or Tameike-Sanno

🟣 Aobaen (Saitama)
This public cemetery is home to several large wisteria trellises, a theee story pagoda and beautiful seasonal hanachozu (flower fonts).
Station: JR Omiya, then take a bus

It’s a well-known fact that Japan gave a gift of cherry blossom trees to the United States in 1912.What’s less well-know...
17/04/2026

It’s a well-known fact that Japan gave a gift of cherry blossom trees to the United States in 1912.

What’s less well-known is that the U.S. gave a reciprocal gift of 60 flowering dogwoods, which were planted in various locations across Tokyo.

Almost a century later, only one of the original flowering dogwoods remained at an agricultural high school in suburban Tokyo. But in 2000, Governor Taft of Ohio - the grandson of the President who sent the original batch of dogwood trees - spearheaded the delivery of another 150 dogwoods to Japan as a mark of the two nations’ continuing friendship.

Dogwoods are blooming across Tokyo right now. I tell this story on my Hibiya and Marunouchi walk, near the site of one of the original groves. Join me on a tour to hear more!

It’s 2026 and overtourism in some parts of Tokyo is an increasingly frustrating issue. The same neighborhoods (Shibuya, ...
13/04/2026

It’s 2026 and overtourism in some parts of Tokyo is an increasingly frustrating issue. The same neighborhoods (Shibuya, Harajuku, Shinjuku) appear on all the “must-see” lists. Looking for neighborhoods that aren’t overcrowded? Here’s a list of some of my favorites. You can always join me on a guided walk to explore more of these quieter sides of Tokyo.

01/04/2026

April is a great month in Japan for outdoor exploration. From the last traces of winter in Toyama’s snow walls to the magical wisteria of Kawachi Fujien garden in Fukuoka, here are seven great choices for Japan destinations in April.

One of my favorite sakura walks in central Tokyo is from Etchujima Station to Tsukishima Station, along the northern edg...
29/03/2026

One of my favorite sakura walks in central Tokyo is from Etchujima Station to Tsukishima Station, along the northern edge of the Tsukuda district. Busy on weekends with picnicking families, it’s a quieter walk on weekdays.

One of my favorite cultural celebrations in Japan is Hina Matsuri, the Doll Festival, on March 3rd. It’s also known as G...
21/02/2026

One of my favorite cultural celebrations in Japan is Hina Matsuri, the Doll Festival, on March 3rd. It’s also known as Girls’ Day.

A highlight of this cultural celebration is the display of beautiful dolls dressed in the style of the Imperial Court nearly a millennium ago. Here are some of my favorite Hina doll displays in the Kanto Region and their 2026 dates:

Keio Plaza Hotel (Tokyo): Feb 1 - Mar 31
Konosu (Saitama): Feb 20 - Mar 7
Iwatsuki (Saitama): Feb 21 - Mar 8
Makabe (Ibaraki): Feb 4 - Mar 3
Katsuura (Chiba): Feb 21 - Mar 3
Inatori (Shizuoka): Jan 20 - Mar 31

These are large scale doll displays with multiple viewing locations. You can also find simple Hina displays in shops, restaurants, hotels and regular homes.

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