28/05/2025
Distaghil Sar: The 19th Highest Mountain in the World
Distaghil Sar, located in the Karakoram mountain range of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan, is the 19th highest mountain in the world and the 7th highest in Pakistan. The name "Distaghil Sar" is derived from the Wakhi language, meaning "above the inner ranch."
Geography and Structure
The mountain has a 3-kilometer-long top ridge above 7,400 meters elevation, with three distinct summits:
Northwest Summit: 7,885 meters
Central Summit: 7,760 meters.
Southeast Summit: 7,696 meters or 7,535 meters.
Notable Climber: Günther Stärker
Günther Stärker, an Austrian climber, was born on May 27, 1935. He is notable for participating in the first ascent of Distaghil Sar in 1960, along with Diether Marchart. The Austrian expedition, led by Wolfgang Stefan, successfully reached the highest summit on June 9th, 1960.
Climbing History
First Attempt: The first recorded attempt to climb Distaghil Sar was made in 1957 by an English expedition led by Alf Gregory. The team reached 6,500 meters but was defeated by bad weather.
Second Attempt: A 1959 Swiss attempt over the southeast ridge led by Raymond Lambert was also foiled by unfavorable weather.
First Ascent Details: On June 9th, 1960, Günther Stärker and Diether Marchart successfully climbed Distaghil Sar via the western part of the south face and the southwest ridge. This route involved technical sections, steep snow slopes, and exposed ridges. The ascent marked a significant achievement in mountaineering history.
Eastern Summit: The eastern summit was first climbed in 1980 by a Polish expedition, including Tadeusz Piotrowski, over the east face. All participants of the expedition reached the summit.
Subsequent Ascents: The mountain was reascended in 1983, and the Himalayan Index lists another ascent of the peak in 1980. A Spanish team also made an ascent in 1982 via a route close to the one taken in 1960.
The north face of Distaghil Sar is considered daunting, and attempts in 1988 and 1998 were unsuccessful. An attempt on the north ridge in 2008 was abandoned due to dramatic changes in the terrain, which had resulted in extremely dangerous conditions.