29/05/2026
Travelogue: Miranjani Track🟢
🌲 Nathia Gali is always a favourite with everyone! It has become too crowded, though, so you have to find the right time to visit. My favourite time is October. However, the period during Eid ul Adha is not bad either, as one often finds it almost empty and gets a chance to explore Nathia Gali in detail. It does depress you to see new construction that is very ordinary. The only positive addition lately has been DoubleTree by Hilton, a five-star hotel in Nathia Gali. I believe staying in Nathia Gali is not only about enjoying the weather and the woodlands, but also about venturing around and taking some trails.
🌲 Miranjani is one such place and the highest point of Galiyat. There is folklore around the name Miranjani, about a couple who used to go up into the heights to graze sheep. I decided to hike to the same high point. Before taking on the challenge, I searched and asked people, and they said it would take three hours one way. I decided to go. It is 9,872 feet high and is the highest point in Galiyat, followed by Mushkpuri Top.
🌲 I set out in the morning to get to the base of the trail. From anywhere in Nathia Gali, it takes about 15 minutes to reach the area below the famous Governor House. On reaching there, I found the gate of Dangri Gali. There was hardly a soul there at 9 in the morning, though usually around 150–200 people climb every day. I found a young lad. I asked him if he was a guide. He said yes; he takes horses and also acts as a guide. I asked him the cost: a horse ride costs Rs. 7,000 and a guide costs Rs. 4,000. I left him and started walking. Suddenly, it struck me that, after all, this was his only source of income during the summer, so I asked him if he was okay with Rs. 3,000, to which he agreed.
Ahson is a young guide of 19 years, about 41 years younger than me 😃! But in the end, he also said that age is just a number. I did not disappoint him during the hike. He said people usually take more than three hours to reach the top. We did it in 1 hour and 28 minutes, and we were back in less than three hours. Thanks to my Mövenpick and Defence Complex gym, and the trails in Islamabad, which have kept me fit.
However, I have always thought that we need to register these guides and provide them with proper gear, an office, and some benefits for collecting garbage as part of eco-tourism. I always wanted to launch this programme online, but what is stopping the GDA from taking this initiative?
🌲 Miranjani is a beautiful track in the lower Himalayas/Pir Panjal Range. This area includes some portions of Naran and Kaghan, Nathia Gali and Murree, and part of Kashmir. Since these areas are less than 10,000 feet high, they are green and covered with beautiful forests. The blue pines, conifers, and chestnut trees make this area look amazingly beautiful. As we all know, the Himalayas are spread across Nepal, India, and Pakistan, and we have around 240 kilometres of the Himalayas out of a stretch of more than 2,000 kilometres. Pakistan, in fact, has the southwestern Himalayas, with some of the highest peaks in this narrow part.
The track to Miranjani is rocky and relatively steep initially. After half an hour of climbing, it becomes gradual and passes through thick forest. As you gain height, the area starts opening up. On your right, in the far distance, is Kashmir. I could make out Ganga Choti, the rear end of Mushkpuri Top, and the valley of Neila Meri leading to Hazara. The midpoint is a small meadow with a water pond. I found a group of youngsters sitting there. They asked us how much more time it would take to reach the top, as if we were experts. However, the guide told them it would take an hour without stopping.
🌲 From the midpoint, the climb again starts to get relatively steep, but Miranjani Top becomes visible, giving you the mental strength to carry on. I noticed many birds singing, insects, and wildflowers. This place is really a biodiversity park and a heaven for biologists, birdwatchers, and environmentalists. I asked the guide if people hunted here. He said that initially locals used to hunt, but not anymore. He mentioned two incidents of leopard 🐆 sightings. In one incident, a cow was killed, and in the second, a leopard was seen several times, scaring students in a nearby village, but it was later caught by the wildlife authorities. He also told me that a bird called Paosar is found in the area.
We had almost one hour of non-stop climbing, and it seemed that we were getting onto the watershed, which was a large meadow leading to the top. As we reached the watershed, the guide pointed to a track leading to Dagrai Bungalow, a colonial-era dak bungalow located deep in the woods, beyond a huge meadow. It was a beautiful sight: a clear blue sky, lush green meadows, and thick forests. It takes another two hours on a gradual slope to reach the bungalow, which is a favourite camping site for trekkers and further leads to Thandiani.
🌲 We turned left onto the meadows, leaving the line of blue pines and chestnut trees, and moved along the track between lush green shrubs and grass. I was excited to see, on my right, the greater Himalayas and the killer mountain, Nanga Parbat, which was snow-clad. From my experience, I could make out where Chilas, Astore, and 🧚♀️ Fairy Meadows would be! We were lucky, as the visibility was really good.
On our left, Nathia Gali was down below, still in the woods, but the new and poorly constructed buildings there are now an eyesore. DoubleTree by Hilton makes a prominent landmark, and so does the Governor House. In the far distance, the Murree Hills were also visible. I imagined what a scene it would be to observe the area below at night.
As we reached the top through a gradual slope, we found Abbottabad in front of us. Alas, this is not the Abbottabad I had once known. It is now almost barren and devoid of greenery due to uncontrolled construction. I found four young people from the same group lying there. I took the opportunity to explain the surrounding areas to them. While talking to them, I learned that they were international Afghan students, mostly from COMSATS University. They were quite oblivious to the situation in Afghanistan but were full of praise for Pakistan.
They asked us for water. We had an apple and five water bottles, so I gave them four. Later, on our way back, another group of two asked us for water, and we gave them the remaining bottle, coming down without a sip. Sadly, there is no water point along the entire trail, so one has to carry water.
At the top, we stopped for about fifteen minutes. Meanwhile, Ahson, the guide, climbed up a pylon. It was funny to see him doing this. After all, you can’t match these Pahari people.
🌲 I hate descents, but we kept moving slowly. On our way back, we met some locals who were carrying a cricket bat and a bottle of Sprite to play cricket in the mountains! I asked, “Where will you play?” They said, “At the Dangri Gali meadows.” Such is the popularity of cricket!
I also met two smart young boys carrying rucksacks. They looked as if they were from the military, so I asked them. My guess was right; they were from the Navy and were going up to the camp. When they learned that I am a retired officer from the Army, they praised me for my determination to climb this trail. I obviously felt elevated; it is human nature, I think!
I was sweating profusely, and salt was appearing on my shirt. It took us a little less than three hours to traverse 11 kilometres and get back to my car.
It was indeed a wonderful hike.
During holidays, such as during Eid ul Adha, it’s better to also try this trail rather than only eating meat🍖! 😃
Regards,
Hassan
MD PLPA
