14/05/2020
There was a strange thing about me, I refused to put on jewelry on a regular basis. Mom gifted me a beautiful thread of pearls but I only wore it for a special occasion, e.g. visiting Mariinsky (opera and ballet theatre). Now, on the contrary, I want to dress up. But pearls are still associated with glamour, velvet dresses, rich women, and specifically with empresses. When I first started working as a guide, it was very difficult to remember the names of the wives of Russian emperors of the XIX century: Alexandra Feodorovna (husband Nicholas II), Maria Alexandrovna (husband Alexander II), Maria Feodorovna (husband Alexander III), Alexandra Feodorovna (Nicholas II). I began to read more about them, look at their lifetime portraits so that I could easily distinguish them by their face, and what did I find out? That they all love pearls! On ceremonial portraits of the Empresses, they just drown in pearls.
Pearls were plentiful in the country, mostly brought from the East. But there were also our local pearls, which were extracted in the Arkhangelsk province, the White sea is a source of freshwater pearls. Pearls were actively used in the decoration of icons, and, of course, as a decorative element in the decoration of hats and shoes.
At the end of the XIX century, pearls started to disappear. It was the fault of man (as usual): predatory production and changes in the environment. If earlier a rich merchant's wife from the Northern lands of the Russian Empire could easily buy a headdress studded with pearls, then at the turn of the XIX-XX centuries, the price of pearls began to grow by leaps and bounds. At some point pearls even won the competition among the jewelry.
In portraits of the XIX century, aristocrats adorn themselves with pearl threads, pearls look neat and elegant. But things were very different with the richest women in Russia. Tatiana and Zinaida Yusupov allowed themselves several rows of pearls and a diamond-pearl tiara. The cherry on the cake is the Pelegrina pearl (not to be confused with Elizabeth Taylor's Peregrine). For the history of jewelry, Francois Flemeng draws Zinaida Yusupova with a 33-carat pearl, which Felix Yusupov (the one who supposedly killed Rasputin) then successfully sold in 1953.
The Romanovs ' imperial lifestyle went off the scale so that the empresses were literally covered with pearls, Maria Feodorovna and Alexandra Feodorovna wore pearls almost as armor. Alexandra Feodorovna stood out especially, her love for pearls was expressed in millions of rubles. The purchase of pearls from the jewelry company "Karl Eduard Bolin" for 8 years equaled 500,000 rubles. Jaw-dropping price for that era! Please, keep in mind that the pre-revolutionary ruble in the current recalculation is 2,400 rubles or 30 USD.
I don't want to discuss corruption and where the Imperial jewels disappeared. I just want to say and remind you: wear your favorite jewelry, let them please you every day!