Two Together - Travel, Tiffin, & Tales

11/09/2025

Come say hello to my Substack!

One afternoon in July, we went to Malleny Gardens to see the roses. They were nearing the end of the season, but they were still blooming in various shades of pink and white and red. They have beautiful names, like “Duchesse de Montebello”, “De Resht”, “Paul’s Himalayan Musk”, and so m...

29/07/2025

John Muir Way: Prestonpans to Aberlady (14 KM)

On Saturday, we walked the beautiful coastal stretch from where we left off near the Prestongrange Museum. From here, the John Muir Way hugs the coast. Before long, we reached a fork in the road: the John Muir Way actually goes through the town of Prestonpans but we didn’t want to walk alongside traffic, so we stayed on the coast. On the main route, you can see some of Prestonpans’ murals. There are some 35 murals that you can see on the Prestonpans Mural Trail, and some of them pay tribute to the town’s past as a centre of the salt panning industry.

Note that the promenade walk can only be accessed at low tide; be careful because parts of it can be slippery and covered in seawater and moss. We walk past the mural of John Muir, after whom this trail is named, then continue along the promenade before stopping at the Lidl at the far end of town to buy some sandwiches for lunch. The path then climbs up a little, and there are gorgeous views of the sea and the Edinburgh skyline.

The route runs through Cockenzie Power Station, but it is closed and there's a temporary diversion. We follow it inland, and shortly we reach the lovely Cockenzie harbour. Boats are jangling in the harbour. We spend a few minutes reading their names. Up next, one of our favourite spots on this walk: a beautiful natural bay. Few locals were soaking in the summer sun here; it was a beautiful day, and the bay was the perfect shade of blue. If you aren’t in a hurry, spend some slow minutes here. It is beautiful. According to an interpretation panel next to the bay, this was in fact the Old Harbour around which Cockenzie grew. It is believed that Cockenzie gets its name from this cove, as it was known from its Celtic name of Cul Cionnich, which means “The Cove of Kenneth”. From here, it is a lovely coastal walk to the harbour at Port Seton, which, like Cockenzie, is still an active fishing port, being one of only a few left in East Lothian.

We continue to Longniddry Bents, resist the temptation of Alandas, and eat our lunch overlooking the anti-tank boulders. From Port Seton to Longniddry, we walk along the beach because the tide is out and the weather is perfect. Several families are enjoying the weekend. From Longniddry, the path meanders along the coast, through dune grass and thickets of sea buckthorn, past the red sandstone gates of Gosford House, into Aberlady.

Near Gosford House, we spot a family of seals. There are at least three of them perched on rocks, while a few heads bob in the water next to them. It was so lovely to see these cute animals! Near Aberlady, the path enters the woods. The undergrowth was full of ferns in summer, and sunshine filtered in through the canopy. It was lovely! At Aberlady, we had a pint at The Old Aberlady Inn, then took bus 124 back to Edinburgh.

Blog link: https://two-together.com/prestonpans-to-aberlady-walk/

27/07/2025

John Muir Way: The Jewel to Prestonpans (9 KM)

After work on Friday, we walked the John Muir Way from the Jewel (where we had left off due to the rain last time) to the Prestongrange Museum just outside Prestonpans. The plan was to walk to Musselburgh, but we clocked a few more miles. It was a lovely evening-- cloudy but dry, and warm.

The first part of our walk took us through the Magdalene Garden park straight through to the A1. The park was mostly empty except for a few dog walkers. We walk through the tunnel and cut across the parking lot of the Range. We were a bit confused here and started walking on the path parallel to the A1, but realised quickly. There is a sign indicating the John Muir Way on a lamppost on the corner here. We crossed the bridge over Brunstane Railway Station and joined the Brunstane Burn path, one of our favourite walking paths in east Edinburgh.

The Burnstane Burn path follows the Brunstane Burn. There are lots of old-growth trees along this path. Birch, elm, and so many more. Lots of giant rhubarb, which is an invasive species in Scotland. The path is paved and is popular with locals. It is quiet and shaded, and makes for a lovely summer walk. It skirts the Newhailes Estate, and you meet the A199 near Eastfield. A short walk along the A199 brought us to Musselburgh, which welcomed us warmly with signboards and a giant stainless steel mussel sculpture called “Memory and Reflection” by local artist Michael Johnson. If you look closely, you can see that the barnacles attached to the mussel’s shell are engraved with symbols representing the history of Musselburgh, from its Roman occupation to the Battle of Pinkie Cleugh.

We walked past the jangling boats in Fisherrow harbour to the mouth of the River Esk. A short detour inland to cross a bridge across the Esk, and we were near the Musselburgh Lagoons. Sunlight streamed from behind grey rain clouds, and Arthur's Seat appeared blessed by some divine power. The Esk estuary is a favourite with birdwatchers. We spotted swans and ducks, gulls of course, and several other birds we couldn't identify. We also saw a flock of ducks in flight; it was beautiful.

From here, the path mostly follows the coast. We stopped by Musselburgh's feather sculpture, which was created by artist Gill White, as part of the "Remembering Together" initiative, a national project aimed at helping Scotland's 32 local authorities reflect on their unique experiences of the Covid-19 pandemic.

Musselburgh Cove glimmered in the late summer sunlight. Wildflowers were everywhere, and we stopped every now and then to admire pretty flowers. There was barely anyone out except for a family enjoying the sunset from a rocky outcrop on the beach below. We decided to call it a day near Prestongrange Museum, from where we took the bus home. All roads in Musselburgh were closed due to a fancy dress party (sad to have missed it), so the bus did a massive diversion through Wallyford and the A1. We ended the day with a pint at The Forester's Guild in Portobello. Overall, a lovely evening's walk.

Blog link: https://two-together.com/water-of-leith-visitor-centre-to-prestonpans-walk/

21/07/2025

John Muir Way: Slateford to the Jewel (10 KM)

Though the forecast was heavy rain, it was surprisingly bright when we started our walk at the Water of Leith visitor centre yesterday afternoon. The centre has a cafe and toilets, open 10 am to 4 pm, and a nice selection of books and gifts, including guides for spotting wildlife along the Water of Leith. We walked under the viaduct and up the staircase to the Union Canal.

We love walking along the Union Canal; it is so different in every season. In summer, the towpath is hemmed with foliage. There are brambles and berries and a host of pink fireweed and willowherbs. There were quite a few boats on the canal yesterday afternoon, and the path was very busy. We also saw some lovely swans. & those beautiful houses overlooking the canal always bring me so much joy. Someday I shall live in one of those houses and sit in my garden by the canal and read.

We followed the John Muir Way to Leamington, then crossed the bridge and walked to Bruntsfield Links. From the Links, you can get some lovely views of Edinburgh Castle. We pressed on towards Newington, where we picked up a snack from the Sainsbury's before heading into Holyrood Park. We really wanted to eat a tasty cheesecake from Pudding's, but there were no available tables.

The John Muir Way then follows the National Cycle Route 1 to Duddington and onwards. Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags, which were shrouded in haar just a few hours ago, stood tall under an overcast sky. We had considered staying in yesterday as I wasn't feeling very well, but decided to go on the walk simply because I wanted to photograph the canal in the haar. But by the time we reached Slateford, the sun was out!

This section may be somewhat boring unless you are an avid botanist who enjoys documenting plants and flowers. It was mostly empty except for cyclists who zoomed past us. Near Duddingston Loch, rain clouds started rolling in. We crossed the Innocent Railway Bridge. The Innocent Railway was once Edinburgh's first railway line. and ferried coal from the mines of Dalkeith into the city. We crossed Duddingston Road and continued along the bike path towards the Jewel. The path goes through Jewel Park and along the Niddrie Burn, the banks of which are so dense with foliage that you can barely see the water. We spotted some giant rhubarb plants.

The plan was to keep walking till Musselburgh, but the rain caught up with us and we abandoned our walk and took bus 21 back home from the A6106. The haar was back as we entered our flat; Arthur's Seat had completely disappeared.

19/07/2025

Sweden | May, 2025

18/07/2025

Lund, Sweden | May, 2025

10/07/2025

John Muir Way: Clermiston to Slateford (8 KM)

We walked a very short section of the John Muir Way last evening after work. We took bus 21 to Clermiston Crescent, the starting point today. The first half of the walk took us over Corstorphine Hill. We stopped a while to admire the beautiful flowers in the walled garden. It is always so lovely and peaceful in there! We walked uphill, past Corstorphine Tower (if you want to visit, check Doors Open Days), and through the sunlit woodlands. In the evening light, the thick trunks of the tree seemed to glow red. Signage on the hill is available, but it can be confusing; we found the AllTrails app to be handy while navigating the many trails that crisscross Corstorphine Hill. The weather was brilliant, and on the way down, we got perfect views of Edinburgh Castle and the Pentland Hills.

The route then skirts Carrick Knowe Golf Course, past Balgreen tram stop, and heads towards the Water of Leith. You can see Murrayfield Stadium looming ahead. Look out for JMW stickers on lampposts. This bit of the Water of Leith was closed, so we had to follow the diversion to Saughton Park, where we got distracted by the flowers in the walled garden and spent some time lingering around the gazebo. In Saughton Park, there were families enjoying the good weather. Kids were skateboarding in the skatepark, children on balance bikes, happy puppies playing-- a happy evening.

From Saughton Park, it's a fairly straightforward walk to Slateford along the Water of Leith. It was also nice to be in the shade on a very hot evening. We crossed the bridge and followed the trail beside the Commonwealth War Graves and the Saughton Mains allotment. In July, the allotment looked like a world of treasures: ripe red cherries hung from boughs. There were raspberries and strawberries, salad greens, and a whole host of vegetables and fruits. We have walked this section countless times when we lived in Longstone. This section of the Water of Leith isn't paved and gets quite muddy after rain. It was almost 8 pm by this time and we cancelled our plan to walk to Fountainbridge along the canal; instead, we climbed the steps that led to the Asda, used the restrooms, and made our way to the bus stop.

Overall, a lovely evening walk.

Walked on 9/7/2025

07/07/2025

John Muir Way: South Queensferry to Bo'ness (15 KM)

We are walking the John Muir Way in very short sections. This Saturday, we walked the 15 km section from South Queensferry to Bo'ness. We rode Lothian bus 43 from Edinburgh to South Queensferry, Walker Dr bus stop. In true Scottish fashion, the weather was a mix of rain and sun, and wildly windy. Because most of the way is through woodlands, the wind wasn't a deterrent. I had hoped to spot the herd of deer that roam Hopetoun Estate, and I wasn't disappointed. They always bring me such joy! In July, the woodlands are brimming with wildflowers: hawbits and harebells, poppies and buddleias, nodding heads of Queen Anne's lace. We walked through a whole copse of pink and purple foxgloves! I have never before seen so many foxgloves in one place!

Near Blackness Castle, we stopped for lunch and ate Coronation Chicken sandwiches that Aninda had made and a hard-boiled egg each. A few yards ahead, we stopped again. This time for a pint of the Lobster Pot lager, some raspberry gin, and a lemon drizzle cake at The Lobster Pot, a jolly pub with some quirky artwork in Blackness.

Between Blackness and Bo'ness, the path took us by the Firth of Forth and through some woodlands. The views of Blackness Castle and the Forth Bridges were beautiful. We watched it rain on the Ochils minutes before a drizzle caught up with us. We stopped to say hello to say sheep and appreciate some wild raspberries, take some more photos. Near Bo'ness, the rustling of leaves and bird calls were rudely interrupted by some bikers who appeared to practise riding their bikes in their woodlands for reasons best known to them. There's also some sort of sewage work near Bo'ness that emits the foulest of smells. Walk fast past it! We ended our walk at the Tesco in Bo'ness and took the Midland Blue bus F45 to Linlithgow and X38 back to Edinburgh (tickets weren't cheap, sadly). You can also take the CityLink 909 straight to Edinburgh for much cheaper.

If you have some time in Bo'ness, ride the Bo'ness and Kinneil Railways. We did it last year and it was very enjoyable.

This section of the John Muir Way is clearly signed and mostly flat. If you're walking on a rainy day, be prepared for some muddy bits. Queensferry has a raft of cafes and restaurants; Dune (gets sold out before noon) and Manna Cafe are our favourites. Roguebros makes excellent sandwiches, and the Boathouse is lovely too. If you want to use the toilets in Queensferry, there's one on the High Street and several others along the promenade. In Blackness, your only option is The Lobster Pot. Bo'ness has several cafes and pubs. Public toilets are available, and there's also a customer toilet in the Tesco.

Walked on 5/7/2025

05/06/2025

03/06/2025

01/06/2025