05/07/2026
Mosques, Minarets, Madrassahs and Mausoleums: it’s been a crazy and intense week of trying to get a handle on Uzbekistan. I will never understand the complicated history of Central Asia and the Silk Road. Khans, Shahs, Amirs, all battling for control over vast swaths of land through which all of the goods went from China, India, Europe, and so on. It’s still a complicated crossroads of ethnic Uzbek, Tajiks, Kazakhs, Mongolians, Russians. Going “off-the-beaten-path” means very little English language anything (Russian is the second language of choice here), spending an hour with a driver searching for a working ATM, trying to work with the uniformly glacially slow wifi. And the food: well, as a vegetarian it’s been a challenge but if you like beef kebabs, you are in luck. It’s beautiful and incomprehensible at the same time. (I have a book on the history waiting for me at home; the new Temur movie didn’t help much).