04/21/2015
June 6, 2014
After paying my respects at the Memorial Day event, I journeyed across the street on the far (west) side of the plaza from the hotel to the Deoksungung Palace. I'll start you off with some official history and facts and then I will begin my photos and descriptions of the area in subsequent posts. The palace grounds are lush, beautiful, and serene in the middle of one of the largest cities in the world. As you will come to see, the palaces in Korea differ greatly to what westerners expect. But first, let's get through the main gate. It is amazingly ornate with brightly colored paint and along the roof line are cast bronze figures of lizards and other creatures. The huge doors have bronze plates and 'studding'. Giant hand wrought chains cross over the doors for security. The roof also features ornate clay tile shingles, each ending in a round, almost coin-like motif. Upon entry through the gate, one crosses over a bridge of a small stream. The bridges at the entrance of the palaces have significance, which I will talk about later. What I can see from here are lush, quiet gardens..........
The Deoksugung Palace – Seoul Korea
Deoksugung, also known as Gyeongun-gung, Deoksugung Palace, or Deoksu Palace, is a walled compound of palaces in Seoul that was inhabited by various Korean royalties until the colonial period around the turn of the 20th century. It is one of the "Five Grand Palaces" built by the kings of the Joseon Dynasty. The buildings are of varying construction, including some of natural cryptomeria wood painted wood, and stucco. Some buildings were built in Western style.
Deoksugung Palace is one of the five palaces from the Jeseon Dynasty which lasted over 500 years. Deoksugung was originally built as a residence for the Prince Wolsan, the elder brother of King Seongjong (1469-1494). After all other palace buildings were destroyed by fire during the Japanese invasion of 1592, King Seonjo (1567-1608) established a temporary residence here. King Gwanghaegun (1608-1623), who succeeded King Seonjo, named the palace Gyeongungung in 1611. King Injo (1623-1649) held a coronation ceremony in Jeukjodang Hall in 1623. It was here in 1897 that King Gojong proclaimed to the nation and the world the establishment of the “Great Han Empire”. The palace was renamed Deoksugung in 1907, when King Sunjong ascended the throne and it as been known by that name to this day. In 2007, a major restoration project was undertaken.
The palace was 3 times larger than it is today, encompassing the whole area around the present city hall, Seoul Plaza and Jeong-dong area. As foreign diplomats and missionaries arrived in Seoul, some western-style buildings also appeared inside Deoksugung palace.
Although located in the busy center of Seoul, Deoksugung is very tranquil. On first arriving at Deoksugung palace you will see Daehanmun Gate. This is the main gate of Deoksugung Palace. A daily show of the changing of the guards can be seen here at the gate. After entering Daehanmum gate you will pass over Geumcheongyo bridge. After heading straight you will come to Junghwa Gate and Junghwajeon. All of the official affairs took place in this building and meetings with foreign convoys. This is the main building in Deoksugung Palace. Originally it was two stories high and a wall was built around it. Now it stands at one story and the wall is gone, leaving the Junghwa gate pointless.
At the far end of this small palace we can find Seokjojeon Hall, which means stone house. This was built to add a more western feel to the palace at the start of the 20th century. It was designed by British architect G.R Harding. The building was rarely used as most westerners were kicked out of Korea by the Japanese after they won the Russo-Japanese war. Eventually the Japanese turned it into an art gallery. After gaining independence in 1945 the building was used to hold talks between America and the Soviets. After the Korean war it became the National Museum of Korea until 1986. The building is still undergoing restoration.
Deoksugung was originally the residence of Prince Wolsan, the older brother of King Seongjong. This residence became a royal 'palace' during the Imjin war after all of the other palaces were burned in 1592 during the Imjin wars. King Seonjo was the first Joseon king to reside at the palace. King Gwanghaegun was crowned in this palace in 1608, and renamed it Gyeongun-gung (경운궁, 慶運宮) in 1611. After the official palace was moved to the rebuilt Changdeokgung in 1618, it was used as an auxiliary palace for 270 years and was renamed Seogung (West Palace).
Originally, Deoksugung Palace was not a palace. The Imjin War (the Japanese invasions in 1592) left all the palaces in Korea severely damaged. When King Seonjo (the fourteenth king of the Joseon Dynasty) returned to Seoul from his evacuation, the primary palace Gyeongbokgung Palace had been burnt to the ground and other palaces were also heavily damaged. A temporary palace was chosen from among the houses of the royal family. This is the origin of Deoksugung Palace. King Gwanghaegun (the fifteenth king of the Joseon Dynasty) named the palace Gyeongungung, formalizing it as a royal palace. Since then it has been used as an auxiliary palace by many Joseon kings. In 1897, Emperor Gojong (the twenty-sixth king of the Joseon Dynasty) stayed here and expanded it. The modern buildings such as Seokjojeon Hall were constructed during this period. In 1907, the palace was renamed Deoksugung.
In 1897, after the incident when Emperor Gojong established the Great Han Empire, taking refuge in the Russian legation, he returned to this place and named it Gyeongungung again, becoming the central palace of the empire. Expansion of the facility followed after his return. Gojong was determined to modernize the country as seen in some of the western style buildings. After Emperor Gojong abdicated the throne to Emperor Sunjong, he continued to live in this palace. The palace was then renamed Deoksugung, as a reference to a wish for longevity of Emperor Gojong. Emperor Gojong died in Hamnyeongjeon.
Deoksugung Palace is unique among Korean palaces in having a modern seal engraving and a western style garden and fountain. Medieval and modern style architecture exists together in harmony in Deoksugung Palace. The Changing of the Royal Guard can be seen in front of Daehanmun Gate and is a very popular event for many visitors. During the Joseon Dynasty, the royal guard was responsible for opening and closing the palace gate as well as patrolling around the gate area. Outside the palace is a road flanked by a picturesque stone wall which is much loved by visitors.
In addition to the traditional palace buildings, there are also forested gardens, a statue of King Sejong the Great and the National Museum of Art, which holds special exhibitions. The palace is located near the City Hall Station. Deoksugung, like the other "Five Grand Palaces" in Seoul, was intentionally heavily destroyed during the colonial period of Korea. Currently, only one third of the structures that were standing before the occupation remain.
Deoksugung Palace Entrance
Daehanmun Gate)was originally called Daeanmun and was the eastern gate of the palace. The main gate was originally the south-facing Inwhamun Gate. Due to the construction of new roads in front of Daeanmun, the east-side of the palace became the center of the city and Daeanmun took the role of main gate. The literal meaning of Daeanmun is “being greatly peaceful” but it was renamed Daehanmun after the maintenance work in 1906. The meaning of Daehan is “Seoul becomes prosperous”.
Daehanmun Gate is the main gate of Deoksugung Palace. Located in the east, it became the main entrance of the palace after the completion of Wongudan Altar (Hwangudan Altar). The original main gate was Inhwamun. In 1970, it was moved to the west because of the nearby expansion of Taepyeong-no Street.
