Go With Joe Adventures

Go With Joe Adventures We build vintage 4x4’s. Here you will find our vintage 4x4 builds, www.gowithjoeadventures.com Services are offered by appointment only.

Please fill out a Services Request form under the Services tab here

01/30/2024

🚨 Restoration Tech Tip 🚨

Not All Primers Are Created Equal

In a Restoration vs Repair it’s important to know a few things that separates the two when using primers.

A restoration is a preservation and will have epoxy used vs a 2k or 1 k primer. Once your bare metal work is done, or even directly after the metal is taken down to its exposed and naked self, epoxy is put onto the bare metal to protect the surface from any damage from moisture in the air and on your hands. Yes, your hands sweat and when you touch the bare metal, if given a day or so, it will leave a hand print.

Why Epoxy? Epoxy is the ONLY way to form a barrier over your bare metal to completely protect it during the rest of your body and metal work. ALL OTHER PRIMERS ARE POROUS AND WONT PROTECT IT FROM THE ELEMENTS LONG TERM. Self Etched is porous, but will protect temporarily and you have to paint over self etch with a 2k or 1k primer. THOSE primers are porous and will allow moisture in over time. Paint is porous: your base coat and clear coat or single stage are POROUS . They do not provide a long term protective barrier. Over time moisture will pe*****te the surface of your paint job as all your top levels ARE POROUS.

In the restoration world we use epoxy from start to finish to preserve our work, but also to protect your investment. It protects the bare metal, and locks in any and all body work done from start to finish. Body filler is also POROUS. So if you’re not using the right preservation products, your paint and body work will break down over time.

Here you see black epoxy used to cover the bare metal and mimic a factory E-Coat. We use a black only in the beginning stages of our body work to allow us to see it when we are doing body work shaping and sanding the rest of the process. Any and all other coats will be gray. This is our personal preference but we feel gives us the best representation of a factory finish for this Scout II.

Then you apply a seam sealer as seen to provide protection, but also to mimic the factory protection used to properly “restore” the vehicle back to its original state.

Our Epoxy we use is a hybrid epoxy. It can be used as an epoxy coating from the start of your restoration, and a sealer all the way to the finish line. It’s the only primer we use from beginning to end to provide long term preservation.

In a restoration some folks will cut corners by “saving money” and use inferior products that will not protect the same or provide the same long term benefits. It will get the job done, but is a “repair” vs a “restoration”.

Restorations are preservations. Repairs are re-conditioned jobs. Both are what your budget can afford, and both are COMPLETELY different processes and products used.

It’s important to know so when you inspect a restored vehicle to purchase or sell, you are communicating and understanding this properly. There is a difference in the work and price.

Enjoy your projects. I hope this helps to separate the terms and guide you along as a buyer and seller.

🤘🏼 Keep On SCOUT’N On 🤙🏼

👉🏻gowithjoeadventures.com👈🏼

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01/24/2024

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01/23/2024

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Some Classics

Restoration Tip:Guide Coat: What is it and what’s the use of it?We use guide coat through the entire body work process w...
01/22/2024

Restoration Tip:

Guide Coat: What is it and what’s the use of it?

We use guide coat through the entire body work process with our acrylic blocks, and is a KEY component in Restoration work and laser flat panels. Guide coat does 3 things we care most about:

•Identifies the highs
•Identifies the lows
•Shows sand scratches between paper grits

We offer 3 different levels of restorations, but in every stage of body work this is crucial for your paint job to come out. Not using guide coat, you will have sand scratches and wavy panels up and down and all around your body work once the shrink takes place in your paint.

Guide coat can be applied as a rattle can, or in a powder form. It can also be in the primer or epoxy you purchase. We use a hybrid epoxy with a built in guide coat, and we use the powder. This helps us ensure our body work is legit 👍

01/18/2024

Acrylic vs Foam: Acrylic blocks provide a perfectly flat surface on your body work. Once you have taken your project to bare metal, done your metal fab, and then your body work, don’t half ass it. The acrylic blocks will provide your hours of labor and sweat a smooth, flat finish

Foam is great in collision where the panels are already flat and you’re not looking for perfection. A quick repair and the job is done

We use foam in restoration where there are sensitive areas that need blocking like curves and edges.

But if you want laser straight, acrylic is your answer. Don’t half ass it.

We build Vintage 4x4’s
👉🏻👉🏻👉🏻👉🏻👉🏻👉🏻👉🏻👉🏻👉🏻gowithjoeadventures.com





01/18/2024
😂 this is what your 2028 looks like….
01/18/2024

😂 this is what your 2028 looks like….

saw this yesterday

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Zebulon, GA
30295

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