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Tim Campbell-Travel Writer, Southampton (2025)

12/02/2025

PANAMA

PANAMA CITY - A VERY COOL CAPITAL

Due to its location, Panama is a mix of Spanish, Latin American, Central American and Indo-American cultures. Known for pirates in the 18th century, it is also synonymous with Panama hats that weren't even invented in Panama. Panama also means "abundance of fish" in the old indigenous language.

Now more famous for the Panama canal than anything else, Panama's culture and architecture is a cross between old Spanish colonialism and American skyscrapers. Old and new sit side by side.

Visited by Christopher Columbus in the early 1500's, Panama City also became a hub for the Spain, Italy and Peru. in those early centuries of colonozation. The Spanish were the first to discover the canal link between the Atlatic and pacific oceans.

The "Puerto Viejo", also known as "Casca Antiguo" or old port, is where you'll find old pirate cannons and buildings from the first days of the city. It's an old historic area in the south eastern part of the city that was settled in 1673. Full of colonial buildings, churches and a magnificent cathedral, this unique quarter has not changhed much in 350 years.

Panama's most famous attraction is the Panama canal. Now owned solely by the country of Panama, the canal was built by the USA but handed over to Panama in 1999. France first tried to build a canal in Panama at the turn of the 20th century, but were eventually defeated by lack of funds, yellow fever and malaria, costing over 20,000 lives.

Day tours from Panama city include monkey island in the Panama Canal, the locks of the canal at Gatun lake and Miraflores, and Fort San Lorenzo. All these are at the southern end of the canal, but take time to visit the city of Colon at the northern end, an old pirate destination in itself.

Similar to many Central American countries and cities, the capital of Panama became famous for drug running in the 70s when it was run by the dictator Manuel Noriega. Once he was ousted, the city returned to normal and is now a safe and pleasant environment for locals and tourists alike.

Today, modern day Panama City has direct flights to the USA, Europe, and South America. It has skyscrapers, modern offices and warehousing, and is the business hub of the country.

With just over 1 million people Panama City has indigenous people that still live in tribes in the jungle nearby, and modern European inhabitants that live in skyscrapers in the city. It is truly a cross existence in a multi-cultual society that differentiates Panama City from all others.

12/02/2025

PANAMA

BOCAS DEL TORO - WATER WORLD

Bocas as it's known, is an unusual place. It's kind of like Venice, in that you need a boat to get from island to island, but those islands have roads and walking paths. Bocas del Toro is an archipelago. A cluster of islands that make up the "town" and surrounding area, with Bocas as the capital.

Situated in north eastern Panama, close to the Costa Rican border, Bocas is accessible by air from Panama City, and by road and sea from Puerto Viejo in Costa Rica. Once in, the only way out is by water and air. Flights in and out are fairly inexpensive, and if you're lucky, the Air Panama flight will take you over the Panama canal for a bird's eye view.

Meaning "Mouths of the bull", or "Bull's Gulf", Bocas is surrounded by idyllic islands, beaches and palm trees. The town itself doesn't have much of an infrastructure, just the usual clinics, restaurants, hotels, laundries and cafes. It's a great place to get away to.

Water taxis, known as Pangas, take you from Bocas town to the other little islands, or on a tour, or for fishing, or just to get away for the day. Cheap with cheerful drivers, the Pangas are everywhere. Tearing up the channels with their diesel outboard motors, the drivers make a good living moving tourists and locals from island to island.

Panama has the Colon currency, but the US dollar is king for cash in these parts. Most anything can be paid in dollars, so, of course, it is a popular destination for Americans who visit in the thousands, along with Canadians and Europeans.

Local attractions are Starfish beach, Bird island and Isla Bastimento, a UNESCO World heritage site. Starfish beach is a favourite, with warm clear water, palm trees and beach bars for a lazy day out. With a cocktail in hand, and a walk on the beach in the brightest blue water you'll ever see, it is a little slice of heaven.

Accommodation is cheap and plentiful, from three star hotels to hostels. From resorts to all inclusives, there is a budget for everyone. There's even islands to get away from it all and see no one else while you're there.

Due to its pristine location on the caribbean, the weather is tropical, but so is the vegetation and unique wildlife. There are dolphins and birds, monkeys and frogs, fish and stingrays. If you're lucky you might even see the occasional sloth, Agoutis and anteaters, but these are very rare.

What you will see, in abundance, though, are hundreds of starfish, everywhere. Sat just under the water, notices state to watch out not to step on them. They can be killed, but also cause damage to bare feet if stepped on. They are easily visible though in the clear water so it's unlikely you'll miss them.

Paradise is a word thrown around for many global destinations. Bocas del Toro is probably not the most perfect paradise, but definitely one you should not miss if visiting this very underrated region. Just remember to bring your flip flops and swimming gear.

30/01/2025

COSTA RICA

PUERTO VIEJO - BEACH TOWN

The majority of Costa Rica's beachtowns tend to be on the Pacific coast. Puerto Viejo is the exception on the Caribbean coast, but a lot more laid back than its western cousins. The west coast tends to be more of a surfers paradise, but Puerto Viejo is all beaches.

Puerto Viejo just means "Old Port" but it is anything but. It is closer to the Costa Rica you imagine from the magazine descriptions, rather than the perfect beach destination. It has beaches and bars, some rain forest, it's easily accessible and there's plenty of accommodation.

That's the good news. The bad news is that there are a lot of tourists, and the locals are kind of a rough lot. It's like having a 5-Star hotel in the middle of a council estate. Not that there's anything wrong with council estates (or Projects, if you're American reading this), it's just that it doesn't fit together when you're on vacation.

The locals are poor except those running businesses, and most of those business owners come from elsewhere. The locals play music late at night and push soft drugs to the tourists to make a living. It's not unusual to be approached by a scruffy local during the day and asked if you want drugs. On refusal you are verbally abused.

Apparently, Puerto Viejo is where Costa Ricans vacation. They know what there is there and can handle it. For tourists it's a 'difficult' destination because it is lauded for its beaches and laid back lifestyle, but it is not ideal. It's the kind of place you go once, and then go somewhere else the next time.

Food-wise there are a couple of big supermarkets and dozens of restaurants. If you're in self catering accommodation it can work out to be a cheap holiday. If you don't cook, or prefer to eat out, be prepared for American prices at the till. Burgers and fries abound rather than Spaghetti Carbonara or steak tartare.

One consolation about Puerto Viejo is that it is on the border with Panama, so there's a better place to visit if you need to. Bocas del Toro in Panama is only a few hours away by boat and road. Puerto Viejo has it's charm, but, apart from the few beaches and food, it is a better hippie backpacker destination than a major tourist hub.

30/01/2025

COSTA RICA

PUNTARENAS - FERRY TOWN

Puntarenas is a ferry town that sits on an inland bay on the western coast of Costa Rica. The ferry takes passengers and vehicles across to the peninsula on the far western side of the country. It's main raison d'etre seems to be the midway point between Liberia in the north and San Jose, the capital.

There's not much to do in this semi-industrial town but take the ferry across to somewhere else. However, it does have access to an inland estuary for boat rides and has a beach that welcomes plenty of tourists in the summer. This is where Costa Ricans come to spend their summer holidays, and not where the tourists want to visit.

As a base, or to take a break from traveling, it is perfect for a visit to the Monteverde national park to the north. Monteverde is the cloud forest with unique animals and birds, famous for being one of the pristine environments in the Americas.

Prices are lower in Puntarenas, and more accommodating to the local Costa Rican than the tourist. They have every amenity, but in limited numbers in a small town. Most foreign tourists though are driving through it to get to the ferry, but this is a central Costa Rican hub for natives, with a decent bus station and car rental companies.

I can honestly say that Puntarenas shouldn't be on your Costa Rica holiday destination. If you only need a hub to be close to the beaches, or the monteverde rain forest, or you're on the way back to San Jose or to somewhere else, then Puntarenas would be a half decent stopover point.

06/01/2025

NICARAGUA

OMETEPE ISLAND - GETTING AWAY FROM IT ALL

Ometepe Island is like a sideways hourglass on the map, with a volcano in each bubble. Its uniqueness comes in the fact that it has birds and fauna that are indigenous to the island. Famous for being a holiday destination amongst Nicaraguans and foreign tourists alike, it is a quiet sanctuary after the hussle and bustle of Managua or Granada.

This small islet is only accessible by ferry from the town of Rivas on the mainland. The ferry takes an hour, and is a calm ride across the waters of Lake Nicaragua. It takes both vehicles and passengers, the majority being trucks for produce and products, and people who work in the hotels.

Arrival is at a tiny village called Moyogalpa, where, expectedly, the majority of hostels and hotels are. It's a colourful village with a school, a church and several restaurants serving up plenty of hearty local fayre.

Ometepe's main attractions though, is its two massive volcanoes and its beaches.These beaches have a unique feature in that they have both white and black sand. White from its tropical origin in the caribbean, and black because of the volcanic larva.

These volcanoes, one on the east side called Maderas is dormant, but the other called Concepcion is very active. Both are famous for hiking as neither are very high and possible to scale in a few hours. Concepcion can ve visited at night to see the larva flows in the dark but it's a treacherous climb.

Some tourists come just to climb these volcanoes and leave again. Both can be seen from anywhere on the island, and are prominent when arriving by ferry, almost like a scene out of Jurassic park. Cloud cover on the volcanos and evening sunsets, visually glorify these mountains better than any camera or painting.

Due to its location, being cut off from the mainland, there are plenty of indigenous birds such as the Yellow naped parrot and Blue throated Goldentail. Its most famous avian occupant though, is the Urraca or White throated Magpie Jay.

To***co farming and export is the main crop on Ometepe. Some farms sell to cooperatives who then sell to cigar manufacturers throughout the Caribbean. This tough business makes meagre profits for the farmers but is an income they live by. To***co is not an easy business, and crops can be wiped out some years due to bad weather.

There are both a cloud forest and a bio reserve on the island, making it a destination for nature lovers. It's a UNESCO heritage site, plus a haven for migrating birds moving south from North to South America and back. As well as the birds, other wildlife that can be seen in the jungles of Ometepe too such as Howler and Capuchin monkeys among butterflies and amazing orchids and ferns.

Ometepe Island is only one hour from the mainland, but a world apart. Like any island cut off from the rest of the world it is a release from the rat race of normal life that we all know. A garden of Eden in a Central American jungle.

06/01/2025

NICARAGUA

GRANADA - A GRAND DAY OUT

Granada is another "unique" tourist trap, but a good one. Like Antigua Guatemala it has the same charm and hustlers, but with a separate appeal of its own. Surrounded by Volcanoes, this northern Nicaraguan city is a classic Central American hub.

There are similar horse drawn carriages, town square, historical buildings and hundreds of tourists, but it is all mingled in with locals trying to make an honest living. It's like Disneyland in the middle of Los Angeles. You'll also want to visit the chocolate museum.

Perched on the western shores of Lake Cocibolca, also known as Lake Nicaragua, Granada has no port as such. There is a small boat dock, which has intermittent service across the lake, and one service to Ometepe island in the summer months. The dock also houses a small museum about the city but there's very little to see.

Granada also has a small bus station which ferries the tourists in and out between Managua, the capital, and the border of Costa Rica two hours away. Road is the only access, but there are frequently disruptions due to storms, earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. Volcanoes surround Granada like the rest of Central America.

Founded in 1524 by the Spanish conqueror Hernandez, Granada is one of Nicaragua's oldest cities. It has the nickname "The Paris of Central America" because it is a haven for poets from all over the world. They flock to this old colonial city for a poetry festival every February.

Like most of Central America neo-classical architecture is everywhere, mostly embodied in the massive catholic churches which are everywhere. Founded by the Spanish, it became a central hub for trade between Spain and this part of Central America.

Due to its importance and trade in the 16th century, Granada was frequently attacked by pirates for its riches. This led the Spanish to build St.Paul's fortress in the city. It was even conquered in the 19th century, by an American called William Walker who tried to annex the city for the USA.

The locals are poor, but seem happy. There are plenty of indigenous peoples selling wares, fruits and vegetables in the markets, and some vendors selling street food like corn and tacos. Some beg for money but there are plenty of police to deter too much hassling. Tourists mean income for many, so there's never any trouble.

Today, Nicaragua has shaken off its communist, Noriega, drug, past. Even though the red and black FSLN communist flags still fly in the neighborhoods, it is mainly now just to capture Russian tourists.

Granada is the classic Central American city. Pretty, clean, safe and colourful. It's a must-see stop on a tour through Central America. If you're only visiting Nicaragua, make Granada your base, and not the industrial capital Managua. You'll be glad you did.

26/12/2024

GUATEMALA

LAKE ATITLAN - THE WORLD'S MOST BEAUTIFUL LAKE

An amazing day tour from Antigua, Guatemala is Lake Atitlan. Famous for its location in a gigantic volcanic caldera, this body of water is one of the most beautiful you will ever see. Another tourist's dream, it is ringed with colourful Mayan villages and three huge volcanoes.

At over 1000 feet deep, this fabulous inland sea is the deepest lake in Central America. With its sparkling blue waters surrounded by cloud forest, a boat trip to see the multitude of villages on its shoreline is unmissable. There are wide mouth bass to fish, but the main reason to tour the tranquil lake is just for the scenery.

In 1996 a Mayan village called Samabaj was discovered under the water in the lake. It is known to have been built on an island, but destroyed by an earthquake and sank into the water. Lake Atitlan is also home to a legendary Loch Ness type serpent monster called "The Chakona".

There are several villages which surround the lake, Panajachel, Santiago Atitlan, San Pedro, Solola and San Juan, all stops on the boat tours. They are all similar. From the dockside up to the main village square it is souvenir stall upon souvenir stall and restaurants. No shops, just covered tables brimming with colourful blankets, hats and fridge magnets.

Intermingled with these market stalls though are schools, houses and churches where the locals live as normal. These friendly locals welcome tourists daily. They sell their wares and host Coffee tastings, fashion shows and Honey sampling, just to entertain the masses that visit daily.

There are lakes all over the world, but none with this scenery and magnetism. Once nominated for one of the seven wonders of the world, some call it "The most beautiful lake in the world". It's easy to see why. Even if you go no further west in Guatemala, you have to visit Lake Atitlan once in your lifetime.

26/12/2024

GUATEMALA

ANTIGUA GUATEMALA - TOURIST HEAVEN

Two hours bus ride away from Guatemala City airport is Antigua Guatemala (its full name), which has become the quintessential tourist city. Full of coloured arched colonial style buildings and a magnificent statue adorned main square, it is an influencers dream.

The bad news is there are always a million tourists walking around, and all the hotels, shops, restaurants and bars charge tourist prices, mainly because they can. Street hassling is also a way of life. Tourists are hassled to buy souvenirs, or blankets, or to ride horse drawn carriages, constantly.

Founded in 1524, Antigua (meaning old) Guatemala has been destroyed twice. Once by Mayan warriors in the 16th century, and once by an earthquake in 1773. Seismic activity has been constant over the centuries and Antigua has had to be rebuilt several times.

The good news is that the above is all worth putting up with, to enjoy a Spanish colonial heritage city and a small walking conurbation that is stereotypical of Central America. Its square panel street plan (blocks like in the USA, north to south and east to west) means it is easily walkable in one day. Although you'll want to spend much longer.

It's all here. The native mayan indigenous people selling blankets and jewelry on an old cobbled street, and a hundred coffee shops each selling the local brew, or another exotic blend. All to draw in the tourists dollars to make their living.

All these are next to a remarkably carved catholic cathedral, next to street vendors selling corn or tacos, next to a McDonalds, next to a local playing a harmonica to make a few quetzalos, . These modern and bygone styles seem to intertwine with each other to make this a classic disney experience ad nauseam.

Antigua is Guatemala's answer to history mixed with capitalism. Capitalism being described in the dictionary as "an economic and political system in which a country's trade and industry are controlled by private owners for profit". The history though, here in Antigua, supercedes capitalism every time.

15/12/2024

GUATEMALA

GUATEMALA CITY - ROUGH AND READY

You might ask yourself "Rough and ready, what does that mean?" Well, it means this place is probably the toughest place in Central America, and ready for a riot. The police and military are everywhere, and armed to the teeth with automatic weapons. It means it is probably also the safest place to travel in Central America.

Not the most aesthetic or colourful of the world's capitals, Guatemala City is urban and industrious, a people's capital. It has a central plaza, with a Presidential Palace that has hourly tours. There is also a small metro and the usual Cathedral to show off its catholic heritage. Nothing to write home about, as they say.

The people are very poor. The poverty is endemic of all Central America, and noticeable the most here in Guatemala City. There are Nike stores amongst fashion brand shops, but no Gucci, Armani, Chanel, Dior, or any other global brand, on the street. All of these are protected within shopping malls flanked by security guards holding shotguns and automatic rifles.

Yet, GC, as it is known, with a population of approximately 3.3 million people, has a vibrant pulse that means it is moving and working all the time. The underground general market is full of every kind of produce and product, similar to that of Istanbul in Europe. The outside open markets have hundreds of street vendors selling both food and souvenirs,

The market is also home to a giant transport hub full of "Chicken" buses. So called, because they carry people who bring their chickens from farm to market. This name has now become synonymous with local transport buses throughout Central America.

These buses are easily recognisable, with lights and distinguishable colours covering the old American School buses that they once were. Each uniquely painted and decorated per the whims of the owners or drivers.

Industry is this Spanish colonial city's forte. Factories and businesses fabricating aluminium sidings, plastics, tyres and chemicals which fill the neighborhoods. Neighborhoods (barrios in Spanish) full of vehicle repair shops and used car part resellers. Barrios intertwined with small bakeries, convenience stores and pharmacies. Working class neighborhoods.

Unfortunately, the city is falling apart. Taxes and donations stolen by consecutive corrupt governments and councils means there is no money for potholes, lighting, or any kind of street maintenance. The neigborhoods should not be walked at night for fear of harm. Not so much for crime, but in case you fall down a new hole that has appeared in the street.

The Presidential palace though has a cheap entrance fee, and is very well maintained. Million dollar chandeliers and floors, with an art gallery and statues, all to impress foreign visitors. The city also has plenty of art galleries, museums, great coffee and a number of new breweries that makes it a centre for arts and crafts.

The city's historical past and modern future make it a well worth visit if you're traveling through Central America. It's a definite short highlight stop on the way to the real gems of Guatemala like Tikal, Antigua and Lake Atitlan. And if you don't want to stop there's always an hourly bus direct from Guatemala city airport straight to Antigua.

08/12/2024

MEXICO

PLAYA DEL CARMEN - YOU'LL EITHER LOVE IT OR HATE IT.

If you've ever been to Benidorm in Spain, you'll know that it is full of English pubs, restaurants and fast food places. Playa del Carmen, near Cancun in Mexico, is the Mexican American equivalent.

There's one small beach and one main street, both are full of American and European tourists. It is advertised as "paradise" in the brochures, but, in reality, is about as much paradise as Las Vegas or Niagara Falls.

Not that it isn't clean, and isn't regularly walked by police to make you feel safe, it's just that tourists get harassed by sellers of everything from tours to souvenirs to taxis to toys. That, and the restaurants that sell poor quality food and watered down drinks for American prices. It's a sad case for the tourist industry of Mexico today.

Even the tours to the local site of Tulum are pushed to include mosquito spray for Zika virus that isn't within a hundred miles of Tulum (if at all). Tours charge anything from $50 to $100 for a bus ride to the site, with little commentary, no water, and "free me time" that just means the operators don't have to do anything for you until they take you back to the hotel.

Playa del Carmen, like Cancun and Cozumel, exploits the beautiful environment that it sits among. It is a victim of its own popularity. The locals are poor, and have no other choice to make as much as they can for their own present and future. The conglomerates that are there because the tourists are there, are the ones who are exploiting everyone.

None of this though belies the fact that the area is stunningly beautiful. Like the Maldives or Fiji, it has clear blue waters, white sands, mangroves, wild animals and plenty of sunny days in the year. The cenotes, or natural water pools, are amazing,

The Mayan temples and ancient history are another plus, even if you don't step foot in a McDonalds. Tulum and Chichenitza are the most famous, but there are many others now being discovered to spend your time (and dollars) visiting.

Cozumel is an island just off the coast from Playa del Carmen, but still touristy and beautiful at the same time. The waters and colours will amaze you, but the same hustlers from Playa del Carmen will be at the ferry port to try and extricate you from your last dollar with souvenirs you don't need.

Overall, there are more positives than negatives for a quick visit to this tourist haven. It's perfect for families who enjoy visiting Disneyland or modern amusement parks. Playa del Carmen will definitely be different than your average Mexican destination, but it's not the "real" Mexico.

23/11/2024

Is finally in Madrid, and enjoying the Velasquez VIP lounge at Madrid Barajas airport on the way to London.

22/11/2024

In the Copa Lounge at Panama City airport on the way back to Madrid and ultimately England for Christmas.

Tim Campbell-Travel Writer

12/02/2025

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