Siena & Italy Tours with Anna

03/07/2025

03/07/2025

3 July 2025: PALIO, take 2! 🎬

For only the second time in 155 years, but the first time due to weather conditions, 3 Palii in a row have been postponed. The skies are looking clear for this evening, though, so the Palio should indeed be run this evening. Because the Corteo Storico (Historical Procession) never even got started yesterday, it will take place today. The “comparse” (contingents) of each Contrada will process to the Prefect’s Palace and finally into the Piazza del Campo. In addition to all 17 Contrade, various delegations will be represented, from the lands and castles once ruled by the Republic of Siena, to the Capitano del Popolo and Università di Siena, to the 6 suppressed Contrade (my Dad’s favourite!). The last thing to enter the Piazza will be the Carroccio, or war cart, where the Drappellone (painted by my teacher, Riccardo Manganelli!) will stand alongside the white and black Balzana, the city’s emblem. Fazzoletti (Contrada scarves) will be waved furiously as the Carroccio slowly moves by, pulled by 4 magnificent Chianina oxen, in a final effort to bring luck to each Contrada. Then, at 19.30, the horses and jockeys will exit the Entrone, make their way to the canapi (ropes), and await their turn to be called in. This order is the final act of Fate in the Palio, and now last-minute deals can be made before finally, after this interminable suspense, one Contrada will emerge victorious.

02/07/2025

For the third Palio in a row, rain has come to Siena. Despite only falling for half an hour, the track will not dry out in time for the Palio. The Corteo Storico must also take place, and most Contrade hadn’t even left their home churches when the drops began to fall. And so, we wait. Let us hope that tomorrow, we run.

02/07/2025

2 July 2025: PALIO! The weather gods are playing with our emotions once more, as rain (something we haven’t seen in weeks), is forecast for this evening. Let us hope that it won’t be enough to postpone the race!

Contradaioli will soon be having lunch, but the vino will be kept to a minimum as everyone must hydrate and build up their strength for what is sure to be an exciting “carriera”. The Drappellone really could go to any of these 10 Contrade, for all of the horses have the potential for victory.

Around 14.30, the horses will be blessed in the Contrada churches, or perhaps just outside. The Corteo Storico will then begin, with each Contrada making their way to Piazza Salimbeni, the Loggia di Mercanzia, the Duomo, the Governor’s Palace, and finally into the battlefield that is the Piazza del Camp during the Corteo Storico (Historical Procession). At 19.30, the horses and jockeys will leave the Entrone of the Palazzo Pubblico and make their way towards the mossa. The Piazza will fall silent as a police officer with an envelope held high above their head will approach the mossiere, Renato Bircolotti, the man charged with dropping the rope and determining the validity of the start. The mossiere will read out the order of the Contrade in between the “canapi” (ropes), and final deals will be struck. After what will seem like an eternity, the mossa will eventually be declared valid, and in about a minute and 15 seconds, jubilation will strike the victorious Contrada as all the others must head home in despair or even disgrace. But this is all Palio, and the Sienese wouldn’t have it any other way.

(I’ve included the websites you can go to to watch the Corteo Storico and Palio from home!)

01/07/2025

1 July: the day before the Palio! The morning began with the 4th “prova”, with yours truly taking a break from the heat to finish getting summer grades in. Later in the afternoon, the Drappellone, the painted silk banner (aka, the “pallium”) that will go to the victorious Contrada, was blessed in Santa Maria in Provenzano. The evening trial is called the Prova Generale, and it is preceded by the Carica dei Carabinieri. Lt. Francesca Bettinelli made her debut in the Piazza by leading the Fourth Regiment of the Carabinieri around the Piazza to salute dignitaries and the city of Siena before picking up the pace, raising her sword, and galloping at speed around and then out of the Campo. The 5th “prova” saw some issues inside the ropes as Lupa struggled to get into position, but the first mossa was valid and eventually Tartuca finished first.

As all the contradaioli returned to their respective HQs, those serving the evening’s aperitivi and meal were preparing. Spritzed were enjoyed, songs were sung, a 4-course meal was served, speeches were made, and when dinner finished around midnight, some headed home for a shower and a fitful night’s sleep, whilst others are no doubt still in the Contrada, going over every conceivable strategy for tomorrow evening, when history will be written once more.

01/07/2025

The morning trial was quite heated, and we’re not just talking about the high temperatures! The evening trial was more subdued, but tempers were flaring in the Campo. Everyone returned to their Contrade peacefully, if a little bit behind schedule. Another evening in anticipation of the Palio, another outdoor dinner with friends and the family that is the Contrada. Sometimes I have to pinch myself - never in a million years would I have thought I would be a part of something as incredible as this.

NB: The star indicates the “winner” of each trial. The morning “prova” saw an impressive run from Pantera with Arestetulesu, a horse that I don’t think can be discounted from this Palio even though it’s not a favourite. The evening trial began with an impressive start from Chiocciola with Pantera once again showing us its potential before being taken over by the Lupa, who finished the 3 laps first. This really is still anyone’s Palio!

29/06/2025

The horses have been assigned by lot to the Contrade, the jockeys have been hired, and Palio is in full swing. In the Piazza del Campo, Tartuca, Chiocciola, and Lupa had the most jubilant reactions to their horses. There are 2 victorious horses in this grouping, 5 with experience on the “tufo”, and 3 will make their debut (all the ones whose names begin with “D”). The most decorated jockeys have gone to Bruco and Oca, and one might just make his Palio debut (Michel Putzu, who would then earn an official nickname). There are also 2 sets of rivals in this Palio: Chiocciola-Tartuca and Lupa-Istrice. With 1 Prova (trial) completed and 5 to go, strategies are not yet set in stone. This could shape up to be a very exciting Palio indeed!

28/06/2025

PALIO 2025! The time has finally come for the Palio di Provenzano, dedicated to the Madonna of Provenzano. The “tufo” (not volcanic tuff, but the local sandy “arenaria”) is in the Piazza del Campo, and the horses were here on the 27th and 28th at 5.30. Today is the day before the final selection trials, and sometime in the afternoon tomorrow the final 10 horses will be revealed and assigned to the 10 competing Contrade by lot.

Follow along for updates as I will do my best to keep you in the loop!

23/06/2025

🤩 It’s been a whirlwind of a year so far! I have met so many incredible people, but I am terrible at remembering to take photos of us together! Please know that it was a pleasure being with each and every one of you. As we gear up for Palio in Siena, here’s a little roundup of the first half of the year (including a family wedding in Portugal!)! 🤩

14/09/2024

I’m still trying to figure out that work-life balance, but I do have two days off in September. 😅 But what better way to spend one of those free days than by trying a whole bunch of organic wines in Panzano in Chianti?! 🍇Silly me only got a picture with my pink G&T (I mean, doesn’t everyone start a wine day with gin?). 🍸 Also met the most famous butcher in the land, Dario Cecchini, although was a bit too star-struck to ask for a photo. 🥩Did manage to get one of Elliot sipping on some vino though! 🍷