14/12/2022
My last trip to Japan was May 2019. We were within a week of departing Australia for Japan in 2020 when the international borders closed,.
So what has changed since Covid?
Nothing, nothing and everything.
Nothing has changed - the Japanese are still unfailingly polite and helpful where-ever possible. Never once have I sensed any frustration from them that I visit their country with no understanding of the Japanese language, other than please and thank you. They remain a remarkably kind and considerate people.
Nothing has changed - the FOOD is still the best! Our first ramen of the trip was a randomly-selected first-floor restaurant in Dotonbori (Osaka) where menu selections were made and paid via vending machine and then delivered to the table.
The ramen just tastes different in Japan. I spent a year after my last trip to Japan searching Brisbane for the same taste and gave up. Yet the very first ramen back in Japan and there it was - the ultimate in hot, salty, savoury, umami comfort food.
Surprisingly, another food the Japanese do extremely well is cake. Chiffon cakes as light as air, served with fluffy cream or creamy custards.
What hasn’t changed is that you can still dine like a king on a pauper’s budget using food available through humble 7-11’s or Family Marts. Full Japanese-style meals take 90 seconds in the microwave. Corn cobs, salads, sushi, udon noodles, ramen, Korean meatballs, all sorts of desserts and drinks. Alcohol is insanely cheap and also sold in the corner stores. After a long day sightseeing when you couldn’t be bothered dining in a restaurant, you can feed a family of four for around A$35 (dinner, drinks and dessert). The question is whether a white bread sandwich with mandarin segments and whipped cream counts as dinner, or dessert.
What HAS changed in Japan however, is the formerly wonderful Hyperdia app. Since 2008 this app was used by non-Japanese speaking tourists to help them get around Japan. Unfortunately, since April 2022 Hyperdia’s functionality has been reduced to rubble and now only shows basic routes but no platform numbers or specific timetables.
The result of the demise of Hyperdia is that getting around in Japan has gone from being a complete breeze to being a MAJORLY confusing, frustrating pain in the neck.
Tonight we abandoned a trip to teamlab Osaka because the destination rail station one app gave us turned out to be over an hours walk from the Botanic Gardens. Trying to figure out how to get back on course involved huddling on a freezing cold platform in the middle of nowhere trying to google an alternative app that wasn’t in Japanese.
Suddenly it just didn’t feel like fun anymore, so we decided to retreat back to the warmth of our apartment, re-group and try again another day.