25/09/2023
ALBANIA – OUT THERE ON THE EDGE Bike 3 / Steve
Crossed the North Macedonia border (unmanned) then a long queue for Albania border – their system was down. In the end, I was waved through without checks. The first stop was a nearby town for a refreshing beer and to locate some accommodation for the night. Found a cheap option at Elbasan Backpacker hostel which was great – own room and breakfast included for A$26 / 15 euro. Met a fellow bike traveller, Christophe from Belgium on a Ducati Multistrada. Also, 3 Australian female back packers were there on a work for board / food arrangement – one from Nelsons Bay near my home town in Newcastle. Small world.
After a good chat about life with Christophe we rode together toward Librazhd – Christophe continued towards North Macedonia, I turned north to start the TET. After 10kms or so the road turned to dirt and very rocky (sharp protruding rocks) – generally quite challenging and in sections boarding on ‘Enduro’ level – not really big adventure bike material with a full RTW luggage load. Needed 100% concentration.
Where I joined the TET it follows the eastern side of Albania which is mostly wilderness – virtually no civilisation – rugged mountains. At one point was following a large crystal-clear river which was the border between Albania and North Macedonia.
At about 2pm this first day I got a rear tyre puncture – I picked up a screw in the tyre – this was a 2+ hour mission to remove luggage, wheel, repair and reload. Those rear tyres are tough to change even with the right tools – really need 3 hands. While repairing on the trail a group of 4 Greek riders stopped to see how I was going – they we all on 450cc bikes. They we the only other bikes or people I saw the whole day on the TET.
After getting the tyre repaired, the trail conditions become very tough – loose rocks, mud sections – snaking up and downs the mountains. Sunset was not far away – I needed to think of survival – water, shelter, and food – and not have an accident. Found a stream and filled my water bladder to get me through the night. Needed to find a suitable camping location – at this point the trail was in tunnels of trees on gnarly trails in low light conditions – no fun – energy levels low.
Soon after, ‘lady luck’ shined on me - there was a clearing in the forest with a barn – this is it – meant to be. I set up my tent and the barn looked like a good place for cooking. A local shepherd arrived after sunset on his horse with his big dog at his side. He said ‘No Problem’ to use in the barn, but he did warn me not to sleep in the tent as wolves are around. He showed me how I can lock the doors on the barn with sticks so the wolves could not enter in the night. Communicating with the shepherd was only using gestures and sign language - he could not read Albanian (I did have Google Translate with me). I was a relief good to have some human contact – as the day was long and tough, more difficult, and risky solo riding – I had started to get concerned about my safety toward sunset. As it turned out, this barn is the drop off / collection point for milk from the shepherds to the local buyer and cheese maker. He gave me 1L of fresh milk which I boiled to 90 degree C (his instruction) and used it morning for some oats and coffee.
The next morning, several shepherds arrived for the milk transfer to the buyer in his ute. After packing camp, I started riding on the TET heading north. Within a few KM’s the terrain became extremely difficult on a large, fully loaded bike (total 250kg) and riding solo with near bald street / trail tyres. I did accidently go off the TET unknowingly and ended up riding up a riverbed of round rocks – not fun – not knowing how long this would last – I turned around and decided to abandon this section. Soon after I met two Germans riders (Daniel & Johnny) going North to South. Both they and a passing guy on a Husky 901 all said section north of ‘Iron Mine’ was very difficult and they were all looking for by-pass options. Around the ‘Iron Mine’ area on the TET, Daniel on his BMW Sertao 650 slid out and broke his foot. The next 6+ hours was a mission between Johnny and I to extract the injured Daniel and his bike from the mountains. By about 6pm, the guys were settled at little basic café where they camped on the veranda until help arrived the next morning. I went to a local town to get a hotel and much needed shower, food, and beer.
Refreshed after a relaxing stay in Burrell, I rode the backroads up to Shkoder, a lakeside town in Northern Albania. One night stay, then hit the road for the North Albania TET route – rocky, mountainous dirt trails cut into the side of the hills with fantastic views. Met 2 x Czech guys (KTM 990 & a Triumph) and later an Italian on KTM1290S (street setup) – he said he was on the verge of crying. His first time offroad and on a large bike with poor tyres (street) – hope he made it.
At the end of the scenic TET ride, I headed to Montenegro with visit Argis and Irina who offered me help to get a new rear tyre and generously offered for me to stay in their beach house (100m up from the sea at Old Uncinj - an abolutely gorgeous place). Argis spoilt me with a great seafood meal, plenty of wine, in the best restaurant next to the water. Great night – fantastic hospitality and good friends.
2023-08-13 Shkoder to Old Uncinj (Montenegro) (209km)
2023-08-12 Burrell to Shkoder (104km)
2023-08-11 TET camp to Burrell (57km)
2023-08-10 Elsasan to to TET camp (143km)
2023-08-09 Ohrid (North Macedonia) to Elbasan (Albania) (122km)
