15/09/2025
夏天的腳步慢慢靠近了
趕緊趁回台灣前把握機會練習衝浪
也發現衝浪的人們是很妙的存在
昨天天氣超好、風向挺不錯
於是一大票人都跑去海裡面練習
從等浪位置看得出不同程度的surfer
中高階厲害的都在遠處等完整的藍綠色波浪
菜鳥如我當然是在更靠岸邊等著翻滾的泡沫白浪
一開始練習都會有點不太自在
怕每一次的摔倒都被其他surfer或岸上的人看見
但後來發現，當我自己看著其他surfer摔下時
反而是有種「找到同類感」，而不是去評斷他的技術
莫名感受到community，即使不知道對方名字也沒說過話
更有趣的是，當我開始專注在練習上
就發現衝浪的樂趣好像不單純在成功站起來這件事
很多時候才剛等到浪、沒來得及站起來就摔下
或是遇到速度太快的浪直接被衝上岸擱淺
甚至浪太過洶湧被沖下來像在洗衣機裡滾得七葷八素
再重新站起來時，都會覺得「天啊好好笑 XD」
「整個被沖得亂七八糟、剛剛也太荒謬了吧啊哈哈」
一回頭，發現許多初階衝浪者
也跟我一樣，跌下來之後笑得好開心
完全沒有覺得這樣的失敗很糟糕或對自己生氣
更多的是覺得剛剛的跌倒方式或沒成功的原因也太白癡了
以及「好吧！那就再來一次試試看囉～」的態度
看著那樣開懷的笑容，真心覺得好可愛
為什麼衝浪可以如此、但人生就很難呢？
如果在人生中、職涯裡遇到的各種挫折和失敗
都能用「天啊剛剛跌倒的姿勢超醜、這真是太荒謬了🤣」
的心態來看待，我們應該會活得輕鬆許多吧～
不只是不那麼在意他人的眼光
更重要的是，不讓屢次的失敗定義自己
因為知道這件事本身就很困難、失敗也有很多因素
然後帶著開朗自在的心情再試、再試、再試
以前不太理解人們說「衝浪精神」
現在慢慢開始可以感受到它的魅力了
期許自己也能慢慢練習在人生中衝浪 😉
#衝浪精神
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Summer is slowly approaching, and as a surfing newbie I’ve been squeezing in practice before heading back to Taiwan.
At first, I felt self-conscious —worried others would see every fall.
But then I noticed: when I saw others tumble off their boards, I didn’t judge them.
Instead, I felt a sense of “we’re all in this together.”
Even without words, there was this unspoken community.
And the funny thing is, the joy of surfing isn’t just in standing up.
Sometimes I slip before I even try, or get swept straight back to shore, or tossed around like laundry in a washing machine
Yet every time, I ended up laughing at how ridiculous it felt.
When I looked around, I saw other beginners doing the same.
They fell, popped back up, and laughed so freely—sometimes at their awkward wipeouts, sometimes at how the wave completely caught them off guard.
None of them seemed ashamed or angry; instead, there was this playful attitude of, “Well, that was messy—let’s go again!”
Those carefree smiles are so shiningly beautiful.
It made me wonder: what if we treated failures in life the same way?
Laugh at how silly it looked, then paddle back out.
Not letting failure define us, but remembering it’s all part of the process.
Maybe this is what people mean by the “spirit of surfing.”
And slowly, I think I’m beginning to get it. 😉
