09/10/2026
Three years, one trip to Palestine and a very good charcoal chicken. Leigh Power, Director of Flavour at Sesh Mafia, on fire, flavour and the nerve it takes to open Larry’s Charcoal Chicken in Subiaco.
Blame Larry David. In “Palestinian Chicken”, the cult favourite episode of Curb Your Enthusiasm, David falls so hard for a charcoal chicken that it rivals his interest in almost everything, and everyone else. Sesh Mafia co-founder Ben Tua took the obsession off screen, travelling to Palestine in August 2023 to find out whether the hype was real. “Larry David had me convinced it was worth travelling for,” he says. “He wasn’t wrong.”
Almost three years later, Larry’s Charcoal Chicken opened under the Subiaco One building, with Leigh Power at the helm of the food. Best known for Shui, Papi Katsu, Sweetwater and Ginger Boy, Power grew up around Melbourne’s Brunswick and Lygon Street, eating his way through Turkish, Lebanese, Iranian, Vietnamese and Italian kitchens. The bird takes centre stage, with a generous spread of small plates around it. Venue Manager Nick Vecera, formerly Bar Manager at two-hatted ARIA Sydney, looks after the glass.
WAGFG sat down with Power to talk about smoke, jammy apricots, and why you have to believe in a concept before you take the plunge.
https://wagoodfoodguide.com/the-best-dumplings-in-western-australia-right-now/
