17/08/2026
ADVENTURE ON AMBRYM ISLAND
Our volcano adventure kicked off at 4:30 AM and saw me, Kel and Rick bouncing around in the back of a 4WD truck, navigating deeply rutted jungle terrain. With bruised bottoms, we set off on foot for the 30 km round-trip hike. Benbow crater was a total elevation of 1,160m, with the final climb being a 750m ascent up a 45-degree scramble of loose black ash. Francis, our guide, made liberal use of his machete to cut footholds into the soft volcanic ash as we climbed.
At the summit, cloud cover teased us before revealing a breathtaking view of the Benbow cone; an immense crater stretching 1.5 km across. Glowing lava peeked through crusty fissures, surrounded by plumes of sulfur smoke rising up.
A moment for quiet awe and reflection.
With tired legs and reluctant hearts, we began our descent; bum-sliding, jumping, and the occasional tumble until the flatter ash riverbeds below.
Near the end of the trek - with only a couple of km to go, we lost Rick. Thinking our guide had pushed ahead, Rick charged off into the bush on his own, leaving Kel, Francis, and me scratching our heads in the dense jungle. No, Rick doesn't drink, although he did enjoy some Kava the night before...
After waiting several hours and many WhatsApp messages attempting to guide him back, we had to leave Rick to brave an outdoor experience.
Unfortunately, our wait meant we missed our 12 km ride back to Wind Shift. As we continued on, Francis started gathering bush tucker along the trail; he was preparing a traditional gift for the chief of the nearest village so we could seek shelter for the night.
The extra 6 km hobble to the village, away from the boat :(, added some new blisters. However, it led to the best part of the journey. I have nothing but wonderful things to say about the village of Meltugon, Chief Philip, and our generous hosts, Graham, Winnie, and their lovely children.
The next morning, Francis set out with a tracker and located Rick; safe, sound, and full of tales of the bush. Meanwhile, I was fortunate enough to spend hours chatting with Chief Philip, for an unforgettable glimpse into the rich traditions of his village.
An unforgettable adventure.