The Traveler’s Cup

23/06/2024

Knowing is Half the Battle

I consume a lot of European travel content. There’s a lot of good information floating around out there. From old fashioned blogs to an Instagram reel posted a minute ago, you just have to be willing to invest the time it takes to sort the good from the bad. One of the things that I see the most are definitive lists of travel “do’s” and especially “don’ts”. You know the ones I’m talking about. With titles like “The 10 Things You Should Never Do In...”, they are often overly generic and decades out of date. “Don’t wear baseball hats!” might have been good advice in 1997, but unless the entire island of Manhattan is on a European holiday, the endless number of New York Yankees hats here in Europe suggests that this is no longer true. You don’t need a dozen rules hanging over your head before you’ve even bought a ticket. Since I’ve already done the work, let me help you keep it simple.

Reinvent yourself for a trip if that’s your desire, but the clothes you wear at home will work just fine. If you invest in anything new, make it a good pair of walking shoes. While it’s great if you speak the language, it’s not required. Duo Lingo is fun, but I’m not sure how often, “The owl likes to eat pizza.” will come up in conversation. Instead, I suggest that you learn a handful of local words or phrases such as: please, thank you, hello, yes, no, I would like, excuse me, I’m sorry, and the numbers 1-10. In the length of one paragraph, you’re basically packed, and you can study on the plane.

Good manners and common sense will take you far. Just because the please and thank you that you just learned sound different, they’re still the golden words. Use them. You are a guest in the countries that you visit, and your hosts want you to enjoy your trip. Make it easy on them by meeting them with a smile or a pleasant greeting. An easy way to avoid a common (American) problem is to pause for just a moment and take in your surroundings. A quiet café is supposed to be just that, quiet. A beer hall is loud, enjoy yourself! If you’re not sure what the protocol is somewhere, ask. And remember that we all make mistakes while travelling, just try your best to be a good guest.

The Rolling Stones gave excellent travel advice by reminding us all that, “You can’t always get what you want.” Many of us have a deep love for Ranch dressing. Whether on a salad or to dip your French fries, you will not find it in Europe. Don’t worry, you’ll still have plenty of great options for your salads. Try mayonnaise for your frites. European mayo is delicious! Equally elusive may be American portions. You will be satisfied with a “full English” for breakfast in the UK and a German dinner plate can be downright Texan, but generally speaking, don’t expect large portions. While your hosts can’t give you something they don’t have, there are other times where you can politely ask for something that simply isn’t the norm. It’s not traditional to drink a cappuccino after breakfast time in Italy, but it doesn’t mean that a restaurant won’t sell you one. When you get home you can dive into a Costco-sized vat of whatever it is that makes you happy, but until then, your willingness to try new things will only enhance the enjoyment of your trip.

Travel is supposed to be fun. You don’t need an endless supply of experts overwhelming you with rules that just make you want to stay home. Whether helping with research and advice as you plan your trip or on the ground as your personal guide, The Traveler’s Cup is here to help.

16/06/2024

At Home In Italy

It was while living in Italy in 2001 that I became a father. This being Father’s Day and since returning from Lake Como, it’s hard not to have Italy on my mind. So much so that if you were enjoying a nice glass of wine in my living room, you could join my wife and daughter chuckling at the musical choices coming out of the kitchen. Sure, I don’t know all the words, but I can – loudly – join the chorus on “Tu Vuo Fà L’Americano”, “Volare”, or “Funiculi, Funicula” with the best of them.

From the sapphire blue shores of Sicily, Sardinia, or Amalfi to the snowcapped peaks of Abruzzo, Alto Adige, or Sud Tirol, Italy has something for everyone. History and religion. Coffee and wine. Modern city or picturesque village. And don’t forget the food! Every region has at least one thing that is extraordinarily tasty and worth a visit to taste.

Let’s begin in Napoli. It holds a special place in my heart as our adopted first home. It’s a city with more layers than an onion, ogre, or parfait. With Pompeii, Sorrento, and the Amalfi Coast nearby, you can’t go wrong. In Rome you don’t have to be a good catholic to appreciate the historical foundation of St. Peter’s basilica or want to shout “Are you not entertained?!” while taking in the Colosseum. Abruzzo runs from the national park in the Apennine mountains to the shores of the Adriatic. If you’re looking to enjoy a quieter version of Italy, this might be the place for you. A visit to a single museum in Florence is like a crash course in art history. While the David remains iconic, it’s DaVinci’s “Prisoners” that haunt my memory of my trip to the Accademia. Feel free to skip Pisa. The bell tower is leaning towards all the tourist kiosks. Venice is probably the most amazingly unique and classically Italian place you could want to visit, but you’ll have to be willing to share as the crush of tourists can be a bit overwhelming. Traveling under a mountain from France into the Aosta valley is impressive. I’d like a chance for a return visit to take the return gondola over. A return to Genova simply for more focaccia would be welcome, but it’s less a destination and more of a gateway city to the Cinque Tera or the Riviera. And though it may be recency bias, Lake Como is simply unreal. I’m not sure which was more impressive, the palatial villas dotting the shores or the rippling mountains framing the emerald waters.

When it comes to Italy, you can’t go wrong. But, you can’t do it all in one trip. The places I’ve noted above are a collection of experiences gathered over twenty plus years. And I didn’t truly begin to appreciate each until I learned that Italy is best appreciated when you’re willing to slow down and take it all in. The Traveler’s Cup is here to help you get the most out of your Italian holiday, even if that means telling you that less is more.

04/06/2024

Summer 2024 is likely to be Europe’s busiest of all time. The European soccer championships throughout Germany and the Olympics in and around Paris are expected to welcome more than 700 million visitors. While you can certainly find your fun in the jam-packed streets of Paris or Munich, there is something to be said to having a place all to yourself. My last two outings are perfect examples of opportunities to enjoy everything Europe has to offer, but on a much more enjoyable and personal scale.

Baden-Baden, the quintessential spa town in the heart of Germany’s Schwartzwald (Black Forest), is considered by many to be a hidden gem. Historic thermal spas, majestic casinos, and regal cafés can be found in abundance. If greenspace is more to your liking, take a stroll through the miles of city parks or head into the hills for some of the best hiking Germany has to offer. Don’t worry, there’s a funicular (Merkurbergbahn) if you’re not up to scaling the heights. From Baden-Baden you can easily hit the road to awe-inspiring Strasbourg or scream-inducing Europa-Park, both just an hour away. Whether as a singularly enjoyable day trip or as a home base for broader exploration, Baden-Baden is a real treat. At the end of the day, don’t forget to reward all your hard work with a stop in at Geroldsauer Mühle for a hearty traditional meal, a groß bier or wein schorle (large beer or wine spritzer), and grab some local products for the road.

An equally enjoyable, yet even more off the beaten path place to visit in the far south of the Netherlands, sandwiched between Belgium and Germany, is the college town of Maastricht. Instead of battling the crowds of Paris or Munich, how about no lines? Unlike the Livraria Lello in Portugal, the self-described “most beautiful bookstore in the world”, where you have to line up outside and pay €8 just to enter (if you can get a spot online), the Boekhandel Dominicanen (Dominican church bookstore) in Maastricht is an equally beautiful and a much more functional place to simply walk in, browse, and enjoy your surroundings. Looking for something to eat? No reservation? No problem? “Take any seat you like!” we were told at a BBQ and Dutch craft beer place well situated on the main market square, perfect for people watching. And when it comes to seeing the sights, you won’t be jockeying with influencers for the perfect shot. You’ll find unobstructed views of all the city highlights. Like Baden-Baden, Maastricht makes for a good day visit or a base to explore nearby cities like Aachen (Germany) or Liege (Belgium). Just make sure to save time for a tour of the Maastricht Underground which takes you into the labyrinth of 12th century limestone quarries used to build the city, protect N**i loot, and give safe passage to soldiers and civilians trying to escape the horrors of the war.

Don’t get me wrong, the great cities of Europe have much to offer. Some of my favorite memories can be traced back to time spent in London, Paris, and Rome. To get the most out of them, timing is everything. But if the peak season is your only time to visit, then that’s when you must go. Just know that you can find an equally enjoyable European vacation off the beaten path. It might mean that you don’t see the Mona Lisa, but you might trade those hours in line at the Louvre for a more fulfilling and more authentic experience somewhere else. Additionally, you might be able to do more with less. A three-star hotel that I’ve stayed at in Paris in October for €150 a night is €525 in July and unavailable in August. This is where having help can come in handy. Let The Traveler’s Cup find out where you want to go, do the research, and help you make the most of your next European vacation.

18/04/2024

Starting the morning in the footsteps of heroes.

17/04/2024

31/03/2024

The Traveler’s Cup is Full of…Wine. (A tour possibility.)

Mosel Valley – Day 1 – Welcome to Wine Country! Arrival and pick-up at Frankfurt International Airport. Drive by van to Trier, where they have been growing wine for almost 2000 years. Lunch as a group at Weinstube Kesselstatt. Explore the highlights of Trier. Dinner on your own.

Mosel Valley – Day 2 – Magical Mosel. We’ll spend the day exploring the tiny towns along the twists and turns of the Mosel river. Tastings at Van Voxelm and Dr. Loosen with lunch in Traben-Trarbach. Dinner on your own.

Champagne – Day 3 – Champagne Wishes. We’ll depart Trier after breakfast on your own for Reims in the heart of the Champagne province. We’ll arrive in time for a lunch sampling of local dishes. Following lunch, we’ll make our way to V***e Clicquot for a tour and tasting. Dinner on your own.

Champagne – Day 4 –Épernay Dreams. Breakfast on your own. Start the morning off right with a tour and tasting at Champagne Bollinger. Head to the heart of Épernay for a walk along the Avenue de Champagne and another discovery lunch of local delicacies. Stop for another bubbly experience at the house of Moët & Chandon. Dinner on your own.

Alsace – Day 5 – A Stroll in Strasbourg - Breakfast in Reims on your own. Visit and take a guided tour of Notre-Dame Cathedral of Reims. Depart for Strasbourg with lunch as a group along the way. Enjoy an evening walking tour of Strasbourg’s historic center. Dinner on your own.

Alsace – Day 6 – A Taste of Alsace – Breakfast on your own. First stop of the day will be Strasbourg’s iconic cathedral. We’ll follow that up with a tour of local tasting rooms to compare Alsatian Riesling and Crémant to our previous days in the Mosel valley and Champagne region. Somewhere along the way we will find somewhere to dig into a flammkuchen or tarte flambée (a traditional bread, cream sauce, onions, bacon, and cheese – similar to pizza) for lunch. Our continued exploration of Strasbourg’s medieval roots and Alsatian wines will conclude our day. Dinner on your own.

Deutsche Weinstraße – Day 7 – A Barrel of Fun –After breakfast on your own, we’ll depart for our return to Frankfurt. While our time together will be coming to its conclusion, we’ll make the best of it by following the Deutche Weinstrße (the German wine road) along the way. Lunch will be on the go, but with stops in Neustadt am der Weinstraße and Bad Durkheim, you’ll have plenty of opportunities to find something tasty on the go. We’ll gather for one last meal in one of Frankfurt’s Apfelwein (apple wine) restaurants for delicious local fare.

24/03/2024

Exploring the World at War

In April, I’ll be following the Allied route for Operation: Market Garden. For many, this unsuccessful chance to end World War Two is known by the name of the book and movie – “A Bridge Too Far”.

Day 1 – Drive the 2 ½ hours from Ramstein, Germany to the Cistercian Abbey of Val-Dieu (1216) in Belgium for a tour, lunch, and refreshment from the monk’s brewery. Continue for 1 ¼ hours to the Operation: Market Garden starting point in Leopoldsburg. From there, I’ll follow the “Hell’s Highway” for another hour towards Eindhoven in the Nederlands with multiple stops for photos of landmarks and memorials along the way. Another hour North will lead to my stopping point for the day, Nijmegen. Dinner at a local craft brewery.

Day 2 – After grabbing breakfast locally, I’ll continue toward the Operation’s disastrous finale in Arnhem. A visit to the city center, its bridge, and a few of the WW2 museums and lunch along the way should make for a full day. Return to Nijmegen. Dinner at a different craft brewery.

Day 3 – After an early breakfast and a little further exploration of Nijmegen, it will be time to return home. From Nijmegen, I’ll follow a different route to a different time in history to the German city of Aachen. The resting place of Charlemagne is a 3 hour drive. Exploration and lunch in Aachen followed by another 3 hours home.

In February of 2022, my son and I made a pilgrimage to Normandy. Only the monuments to the brave and the memorials to the fallen remind visitors of the extraordinary events that occurred on these ordinary beaches.

Day 1 – Drove 6 ½ hours from Ramstein, Germany to Bayeux, France while listening to “The Longest Day” by Cornelius Ryan. Arrived in Bayeux in time to view its famous tapestry (a 230 foot by 20 inch depiction of the Norman conquest of England and the Battle of Hastings) from the 11th century, have dinner at a local café (tarte flambe and cidre), and explore the half-timbered streets of the medieval city center.

Day 2 – 30-minute drive to Caen for breakfast. A 20-minute drive from there to Pegasus Bridge, the location of one of the opening acts of D-Day heroism. From there we followed the Route D’Arromanches and found the beach heads for Sword, Juno, and Gold (all well marked). It was a beautiful day, and you could see clearly across the English Channel. While things are relatively close together, with simple two-laned roads, 16 miles takes 45 minutes, which was our journey from Sword to Omaha Beach. After walking the beach and commenting on the normalcy of houses lining the road and the children playing near the monuments, we headed to the nearby bunkers at Pointe du Hoc. The bombed out N**i fortifications and the huge craters were reminders of the massive firepower laid down by the allied air and naval forces. Another 40 minutes down along the coast brought us to Utah. After two long days of driving, we returned the 45 minutes to Bayeux for a well-earned meal and a sampling of some local calvados (apple brandy).

Day 3 – After a quick breakfast, we arrived early at Normandy American Cemetery. Because of the time of year and early morning, we were able to view the visitor’s center and pay respect in the cemetery almost entirely alone. It is a solemn and beautiful location. A short time into our daunting 7-hour drive back to Ramstein we decided to break it up with an impromptu visit to the Palace at Versailles. It still made for a long day, but one that won’t be forgotten.

While on personal travel from my home here in Germany I may be willing to make the long haul in a single day. As a guest of The Traveler’s Cup I will tailor your tour to help you take full advantage of your time travelling.

17/03/2024

Past Itineraries:

Day 1 – Welcome to Ireland! Arrival and pick-up at Dublin International Airport. Transfer by van to Cork. Explore Cork City. Dinner as a group.

Day 2 – Cobh & Kinsale – Breakfast on your own. The day starts with a short drive to Cobh, once the gateway to America and the last stop of the RMS Titanic. We’ll stop to explore James Fort overlooking Kinsale harbor and then continue into town to have lunch as a group and wander the picturesque streets. Return to Cork City for dinner on your own.

Day 3 – The Scenic Route – Breakfast on your own. We’ll make sure to take in some of the best of views of Co. Cork (Bantry House, Healy Pass, and the Beara Peninsula) as we head to Kenmare in Co. Kerry. Lunch will be as a group with dinner on your own.

Day 4 – The Ring of Kerry – Breakfast on your own. We will be taking our time to afford you the opportunity to take in the awe-inspiring natural beauty along the way. Lunch will be as a group along the way and dinner is on your own.

Day 5 – Take a Break – Breakfast on your own. After a couple days of driving, we’ll keep it simple with local experiences closer to our base in Kenmare. Lunch as a group and dinner on your own.

Day 6 – Into the West – Breakfast on your own. Time to leave Co. Kerry and head to the musical heart of Ireland in Co. Clare. Along the way to Doolin, we’ll have lunch as a group and stop at the Cliffs of Moher. Dinner is on your own.

Day 7 – For the Birds – Breakfast on your own. Doolin may be tiny, but there’s plenty to see and do. We’ll visit the otherworldly landscape of The Burren with stops at Aillwee cavern and the Burren Bird of Prey Experience. Lunch as a group at McGann’s and dinner on your own.

Day 8 – Back to the Future – Breakfast on your own. While Dublin holds many of its traditional charms, it has become the EU hub for most of the world’s biggest tech firms. After lunch as a group, we’ll head over to the Guinness brewery. Dinner on your own.

Day 9 – Hitting the Books – Breakfast on your own. We’ll walk over to Trinity College to view the Book of Kells. From there we’ll make a loop through Merrion Square, into St. Stephen’s Green, over to St. Patrick’s and Christchurch cathedrals, Dublin Castle, Temple Bar, and finish up at the General Post Office & the Spire. We’ll stop for refreshments and snacks along the way as a group. Dinner on your own.

Day 10 – Finale – Breakfast on your own. So many options for our last day together. Good weather and we can walk Phoenix Park or take to the Howth Head cliffs. Cold and wet, the National Museum and the Chester Beaty are both outstanding. In either case, we’ll find our way into a cozy pub for lunch and then we’ll finish with a traditional meal at Gallagher’s Boxty House.

Day 11 – Until We Meet Again – Breakfast on your own. Transfer to the airport.

10/03/2024

When I was a little boy, trips to Martinotti’s delicatessen in downtown Portland meant a lot to me. I’m sure that part of the big deal was that it seemed like such a long trip all the way into downtown, but more important to me was that it was owned by my godmother and her family. I’d get to go into the office or behind the counter. Maybe find myself at a table with a tasty sandwich served with a little hard candy on the plate. If I was really lucky, perhaps that plate had something more like a cannoli or a cinnamon roll on it. It always felt special.

Then, when I was in my early twenties, I was getting ready to move to Italy. It was at this time that my godmother’s daughter told me about their family’s roots in the Italian Riviera along the Ligurian coast. That there was a Martinotti’s there too. Located in a town called Diano Marina. And that if I made it up that way from our home in Napoli that I should stop in and introduce myself. It’s something that I had every intention of making happen, but life happened and then I found myself back in the States without having made that particular pilgrimage. But I never forgot.

Last week, some twenty years later, I was able to fulfill that journey. Limited by time, I rented a car and cruised from Nice and the Cote d’Azur back into the Italian Riviera. It was an easy hour drive as opposed to the three plus hours it would have been by train. Diano Marina isn’t an Instagramable vacation destination like Sanremo, Portofino, or the Cinque Terre. Just a seaside village of regular people going about their daily business. But I had finally found my way to Pasticceria Marinotti.

We all have destinations in mind and life can get in the way. It’s never too late to make it happen. Let The Traveler’s Cup help you find your way.

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