06/10/2024
Pretty much 110 years ago, on 7 October 1914 the German 4th Cavalry Corps crossed the Leie (Lys) towards the north. Elements of the 3rd and Bavarian cavalry division spent the following night in Ypres. The first and last time German troops entered the town.
"The new day - 7th October - dawned and brought with it the flurry of colourful activity amongst the mounted troops. We were now north-east of Lille, having moved around it in a broad sweep to the east. The place was teaming with cavalry and we kept bumping into the regiments of other cavalry divisions. There were Guards cavalry, Bavarian Uhlans and Chaveaulegers and the roads were full of horses, riders and wagons. We drew closer to a small town with a great church. It was the well-known town of Menin. The whole cavalry division was drawn up there, together with its heavy baggage train. It was just as though we were on a peacetime manoeuvre. After a lengthy halt and then numerous hold ups on the road, including the presence of units crossing the line of March, which cost much cursing and swearing, at long last we marched into the little town and along the length of its main street, under the gaze of its curious inhabitants who crowded the streets. We were to see it later in a very changed situation. Without any further delay we carried on along the broad main road to Geluwe and Geluveld. It was a demanding, but fascinating march. The Battalion moved along the centre of the road with the cavalry sticking to bridle paths to the left and right. Sometimes walking, sometimes trotting, they threw up large quantities of dust, which was a constant trial to us. We were accompanied by wagons which carried those of our men who were exhausted or suffering from foot troubles. Away on the horizon the high gothic Towers of a larger town loomed up: Ypres. Apparently cavalry patrols moving near to it had come under fire, so the cavalry halter and orders for an attack by the Battalion were issued. However, infantry foot patrols pushing ahead soon reported that there were no enemies in Ypres.
A marvellous evening mood spread through the ranks. Marching past magnificent properties, beautiful gardens and chateaus, we approached the walls of the town. Crossing ditches, bridges and the moat, we passed through an ancient gateway and entered this famous old town. We first moved through the outer streets containing nothing of great significance then we came to the broad town square in front of the famous Cloth Hall, the giant tower of which reached way up into the darkening sky. Its rich Gothic ornamentation was set off in a refined Way by its brilliant, shining windows. The entire Square was enclosed by steep, dark Gable ends. The companies halted in the middle of the square and piled their rifles together. Shy, but curious, the inhabitants watched all this unfamiliar military activity, with no concept at all of its seriousness. Up until then the war had been conducted a long way away from where they lived.
A search had been underway to find accommodation for our men and soon and soon an excellent place had been located. It was an attractive, well appointed, barracks with a pleasant terrace and commodious rooms. Externally it looked like a chateau; nobody would have taken it for a barracks at all. Meanwhile, our men looked around the streets and squares with staring eyes. The shops on the main street were as elegant as those of a large city and we could almost feel the proximity of the sea. After attending to the care of my men, I took a stroll through the streets. The side streets were dark and lonely, built in the friendly style of a Dutch suburb. People were out into bout on the main street well into the night. It was difficult to communicate with the inhabitants. Only one or two understood French and hardly any of our Bavarians could speak Plattdeutsch.
I entered some of the well-lit shops and benefited by buying things which were very welcome to us, separated as we were from the bulk of our equipment. This included excellent Belgian ci**rs, which however were very expensive and some of the really delicious hard biscuits, which are a specialty of Ypres and similar to others I found later in Kortrijk.
I found out that on one occasion, about 10 to 14 days previously, a car containing British officers had driven through the town, but we were the first troops to have set foot into Ypres. The people were quite friendly towards me, but they expressed neither sympathy, nor antipathy towards the German advance. Their every third expression was, ‘poor Belgium’. I called it one of the most beautiful houses on the main street to make billeting arrangements for myself and several other officers, but the lady of the house explained that a number of other officers had already occupied the house. Never mind! I wandered over to an equally striking building opposite. Having rung the doorbell for a long time, the door was finally answered by a friendly cleric, welcome to us and offered us dinner at 10 pm.
Until then I wandered the streets. I returned to the main square and absorbed the unique sights. all that which lies in ruins and Ashes now, then stood tall and straight, in striking splendour, as though it had been built to last for all eternity. The shining lights in the windows had now been extinguished. several senior officers of the town and government had been taken hostage. A finance officer had been forced to deliver up the town funds and was only allowed to move about under secure es**rt. the sound of the footsteps of our bavarians could be heard coming from the covered walkways of the Cloth Hall, where a guard room had been established in a chamber on the ground floor and riders clattered over the square delivering messages to the divisional staff, which was located in a hotel next to the Cloth Hall. We occupied the whole of Ypres, which was simple because it was surrounded by walls and to moat and was accessible only by a few main roads which passed through the historic gates. I walked a few steps to Saint Martins Cathedral. It's great dark bulk, with the height of its spire lost in the darkness of the night, bore down heavily on the pointed gable ends of the old houses which surrounded it. I was unable, however, to settle down to appreciate the artistry of it, due to a combination of the hustle and bustle and the excitement of a moment in world history that was to occur only on this one occasion. It was, in fact, a peaceful and moving interlude in the life of what the world has come to know by the name of Ypres - and we were there.
That evening we did not visualise anything of what was to come; nor anymore did the disturbed and curious inhabitants.
On my way back to my quarters I talked to a number of them. They had no knowledge of British or French troops and absolutely nothing about the war; they had not received any newspapers for months. ‘Where were we marching?’ I had no idea myself. In a bookshop I bought a town plan and a map of the surrounding area. I even paid in cash rather than leaving a credit note. It was just as though we were still at peace. In our quarters the friendly priest talked to us about their hopes for a Flemish state and their political humiliation. He could not speak good German, but was better in French. He had undergone training at a Jesuit seminary in Austria and had spent a long time in France and Italy, but only a short period in Germany. (...) We laid down to rest in good, broad comfortable French beds. Our departure was sudden and rather like responding to an alarm call. As dawn broke we left the hospitable town and headed down the road towards Vlamertinge. I cast one last glance back at the Peaceful scene. The morning fires were lit, the smoke rose comfortingly above the steep gable ends, whilst above them were towers of the Cloth Hall and the Cathedral, the lead roofs and the great gates, which projected a scene right out of the Middle Ages."
Hauptmann d.R. Otto Rutz (K.B. Reserve-Infanterie-Regiment 1)