06/07/2022
A few bends to the east along the Amalfi Coast road is low-key Praiano, which has a couple of very cool, rather new, rather fresh places to stay. There isn't really a centre to the village (unless you count the busy Bar del Sole), but it has a huge church with a colourful dome, and a rocky beach, La Gavitella, at the bottom of 350-plus steps, where you can enjoy the last rays of the evening sun - bliss on this convoluted stretch of coast. To really understand the topography of the costierahere, you need to get down to sea level. You can pick up a boat in Positano or Amalfi, but you can also take a detour down to cute Marina di Praia (aka La Praia), a clutch of cottages and a small beach wedged between towering cliffs, where there's a boat concession and a couple of simple restaurants to set you up for your trip. Heading west, you will eventually reach Punta Campanella, the wild, barren tip of the Sorrentine Peninsula and, beyond it, Capri.
But a gentle chug eastwards towards Amalfi takes you past some pretty impressive scenery. It's liberating to be out on the water and there's so much to take in that isn't visible from the road: gorgeous villas suspended over the water; sea caves and grottoes tucked into folds in the cliffs; solid Saracen defence towers that speak of pirate raids and war; slivers of pebble beach begging you to stop for a quick dip; waterside restaurants perfect for lazy lunches. The jagged coastline to the east of La Praia is broken by the Vallone di Furore gorge, which shelters at its mouth a few ancient fishermen's huts hewn from the rock face and a tiny scrap of beach. Further on is the Grotta dello Smeraldo (you'll know you're there from the tourist boats swarming around it), named after the intense, greenish light that filters into the cave from an underwater arch.
Just beyond the Capo di Conca headland lies the pretty fishing village of Marina di Conca, with a handful of restored fishermen's houses, a couple of restaurants and a tiny, whitewashed chapel, all overlooking a shingle beach lapped by crystal-clear water.
