09/02/2026
Calcata, a community the New York Times described as "the grooviest village in Italy, home to a wacky community of about 100 artists, bohemians, aging hippies and New Age types." Built on a volcanic hill to the north-east of Rome, Calcata has maze-like alleys, stone houses and dazzling views
People have been living around Calcata long before the Romans arrived. However, it's present incarnation as an artistic retreat dates back to the 1960s and '70s. Hippies moved in, patching up houses and streets and opening a plethora of galleries, restaurants and cafes.
Evidence of this very much present in this one cafe called the Rock Cafe. Everything about the cafe is quintessentially Italian โ the striking waitress, the excellent coffee, the breakfast focaccias the other customers are tucking into.
Yet the posters on the walls of Calcata's Rock Cafe are mostly British or American. And the singers all died unnaturally early deaths. Apart from Morrison, there are photos of Janis Joplin, John Lennon, Brian Jones, Billie Holiday, Jimi Hendrix and Amy W**ehouse. Videos run of a young Jim Morrison, the incomparable keyboard player Ray Manczarek, and the two guitarists in the doomed Doors, performing their early hits.
Roam around the exquisitely beautiful village, getting lost in the rabbit warren of cobbled streets, admiring the tiny stone houses piled one on top of the other, enjoying the dazzling views and the mouth-watering smells of food. This is truly a magical, medieval destination that's perfect for art lovers.
Despite, the description, of medieval, and commune style, it certainly doesn't lack the usual incredible Italian food experience. Many restaurants to choose from, and as I read with rave reviews, even a few Michelin level.
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