
08/07/2025
Acclimatization for climbing at altitude is the thing you do before going climbing, for better or worse. It is essential to let your body adapt to higher elevations, but the frequent headaches and long stretches in the tent can be challenging. This year, we were lucky with some good weather right when we arrived in our basecamp below the Batura Sar wall. This was a different base camp from our Ultar Sar camp, so we made a separate trip up the Mushwar Valley to slowly walk uphill, amongst some of the tallest peaks in the world (Batura I is 7,795m) and play Monopoly Deal. After waiting two days to ward off some sickness (unsuccessfully), we headed up for 8 days. This year, the snowpack was much shallower, which made for safer conditions and (mostly) good travel. Can’t get away from the trail breaking, but that just helps with the heavy breathing 😮💨. After two nights at 6,650m (our high point), we reversed 2,100m of elevation over 7 days in about 7 hours. The insistent talk of Usman’s pakoras (fried spicy dough snacks) was a strong motivator!! Some frisbee golf was played (check out Usman’s throw!) and then it was time to walk back to Karimabad. Until the porters came to help us return to the urban world, we had not seen anyone outside of our own team, incredible!
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