07/16/2026
Le Tour de France: a guide’s perspective.
I’ve guided hundreds of road cycling trips in France since 1998. Over tens of thousands of km, I know France better than 98% of the French! The scenery, villages and familiarity of the roads is a principal reason I watch the TdeF every year, even when home in 🇨🇦.
This year’s Pyrénées queen stage 6 was rivetting with a new finish at the spectacular Cirque de la Gavarnie. The Aspin-Tourmalet double is a classic. Col d’Aspin is one of my favourite Pyrénéens climbs: not too difficult, beautiful and consistent. But still enough to soften the legs before HC Tourmalet.
The Tourmalet road has vastly improved since the first time I rode it in 2001. It’s wider, the corners have more camber, and the road surface top notch. But it’s a long technical descent. The corner where yellow jersey TRAEEN unfortunately crashed is tricky at the end of a long, fast straight. It has caught many by surprise.
I’ve heard pundits say the road from Luz St. Sauveur to Gavarnie is a false flat. This is incorrect. I’ve ridden it many times, most recently Sept 2025. Although it’s no HC, it’s a consistent climb with sections of 5+% with switchbacks above the village of Gèdre. Even POGACAR commented it didn’t feel like a false flat when he rode it! This is why he was able to put even more time into the chasers. On a false flat, a peloton could have worked together to roll very quickly.
If you get the opportunity to ride there; the descent to Luz is super fun: fast with wide corners and good visibility. The Cirque de la Gavarnie is spectacular and worth some time for an off-bike hike. There are also several super rock climbing routes and a vf. The little known climb up to Cirque de Troumouse is a hidden gem - but be aware it’s tough and the road surface is rough!
The Gave de Pau valley has many big cols: Luz Ardiden, Cauterets, Hautacam, Soulor/Aubisque and not far from Marie-Blanque! Base yourself in Argelès-Gazost where you’ll have your menu choice.
Photos all mine from in and around Luz including the climb up to Gavarnie.
