25/09/2012
The Surf
The Côte Basque has been a popular tourist destination since Napoleon III chose it to launch the craze of sunbathing in the 19th century. Surfing in France began in 1956, when the first surfboards arrived in the luggage of a Californian surfer and filmmaker named Peter Viertel. He was amazed by the quality of the waves that he found on the Côte Basque and surfing caught on quickly, due, in no small part to the Basque peoples love of the ocean.
The ‘Côte Basque’ shares many characteristics with the north-facing Spanish coast and is blessed with some decent submarine geology. Slabs of reef dot the coast, focusing some of the most organised and unadulterated swell trains into scary, big wave arenas. There are also coves, headlands and a series of jetties in Anglet, offering wind protection unseen on the beaches to the north. This short coastline curves from the exposed WNW-facing spots of Anglet to the sheltered, northerly aspect of the beginners’ beach at Hendaye, creating cross/ offshore conditions when winter south-westerlies blow. Famous reefs like Guéthary and Lafitenia attract the crowds from far and wide, especially when the beaches are maxed out or onshore. Furthermore, with huge 4m+ spring tidal ranges, the window of opportunity becomes compressed for many spots, adding to the density of surfers in the line-up. The Côte Basque is now recognised as the big-wave venue on mainland Europe since the 2002 discovery and subsequent towing-in at the bombora reef Belharra. Avalanche also handles huge swells, entertaining a dedicated local crew of chargers who usually prefer to paddle-in. Flexibility in aspect and wave type suggests that the Côte Basque is a year- round surf destination. From the summer beachies in Anglet to the winter reefs around Guéthary, there is always something to ride and there is always someone to ride it, regardless of the season.
When to Go
The coastline faces due west around to due north, catching the bulk of the very consistent North Atlantic swells. Unfortunately, it is not so well orientated for the dominant NW winds. When a low pressure approaches the coast, winds usually blow from the SW before turning WNW. Big storms are common and the surf can remain blown out for several days. Combine this with rain and cooler temperatures and it can get a little depressing! On the other hand, when a high pressure covers the country you will be blessed with sunny skies and in the mornings, light offshore breezes (about 1/3 of the time). In the afternoons it’s usual for a light to moderate NW seabreeze to kick in. Tidal ranges can reach 14 feet (4,50m) on spring tides, at which time very few spots work properly. Get a tide chart.