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Streets of Valencia, València (2026)

14/10/2026

WHY DO VALENCIANS EAT TWO BREAKFASTS? THE WONDERFUL TRADITION OF ESMORZARET!

One of the things that fascinated me when I first moved to Valencia ten years ago was discovering that people here don’t necessarily consider breakfast a once-a-day affair. In Britain, you might grab some toast, a bowl of cereal or a bacon sandwich before heading off to work. But here in Valencia, they’ve taken the concept of breakfast to an entirely different level. Why settle for one breakfast when you can have two?

Welcome to the wonderful Valencian tradition of esmorzaret, also known as almuerzo, a mid-morning institution that involves enormous sandwiches, plates of olives and peanuts, drinks, coffee and, most importantly, plenty of time to sit around a table enjoying the company of friends.

Walk through almost any Valencian neighbourhood between nine and eleven in the morning and you’ll see the evidence. Terraces packed with workers, groups of friends, retired gentlemen discussing the state of the world and tables covered with food. And while much of Europe is settling down to its second cup of coffee, Valencians are tucking into sandwiches that could comfortably feed a small family.

A TRADITION BORN IN THE VALENCIAN COUNTRYSIDE

The origins of esmorzaret are generally traced back to the agricultural communities of Valencia’s famous huerta, the fertile farmland surrounding the city. Farm labourers would begin work early in the morning and, after several hours of physical labour, stop for a substantial meal to keep them going until lunchtime.

Many would bring their own bread and fillings from home, stopping at local bars to buy a drink and enjoy a little conversation. Over time, this simple agricultural tradition developed into something much more elaborate, eventually becoming part of everyday Valencian life.

And although most of us no longer spend our mornings working in the orange groves, the tradition has survived remarkably well. Today, you’ll find everyone from construction workers and office employees to families and groups of friends enjoying their mid-morning almuerzo.

SO, WHAT EXACTLY IS AN ESMORZARET?

First comes what’s known as el gasto, a little selection of olives, pickles, lupin beans and the famous Valencian cacaus del collaret, those delicious local peanuts that seem to disappear from the table almost immediately.

Then comes the main event, the bocadillo. And we’re not talking about a delicate little sandwich here. These are enormous crusty baguettes packed with ingredients such as grilled pork, sausages, bacon, fried eggs, tortilla, peppers, cheese and all sorts of other delicious combinations.

Among the classics are the chivito, usually filled with pork loin, bacon, cheese, lettuce, tomato, egg and mayonnaise, and the almussafes, a wonderful combination of sobrasada, melted cheese and caramelised onions. Every neighbourhood seems to have its favourite bar, and every bar has its own speciality.

The sandwich is traditionally accompanied by a drink, perhaps a b**r, w**e, soft drink or water. And to finish, many people enjoy a cremaet, a Valencian coffee prepared with rum, sugar, lemon peel and cinnamon, with the alcohol traditionally heated or flambéed before the coffee is added.

All this, remember, is happening at around ten o’clock in the morning!

BUT THE REAL INGREDIENT ISN’T THE FOOD

What I particularly love about esmorzaret is that it’s about much more than eating. It’s an excuse to stop working for a while, sit down with friends or colleagues and enjoy a little piece of the day without constantly looking at your watch.

In a world where so many people seem permanently rushed, eating sandwiches at their desks or grabbing something on the way to their next appointment, there’s something rather wonderful about a culture that still makes time for a leisurely mid-morning meal.

And perhaps that’s the real reason this tradition has survived for so long. The food is delicious, of course, but it’s the conversations, friendships and atmosphere that make it special.

Valencia has plenty of fashionable brunch restaurants these days, serving beautifully presented avocado toast and elaborate coffee creations. Nothing wrong with that, of course, but the Valencians have been enjoying their own version of brunch for generations, long before anyone thought of putting a poached egg on sourdough and charging €15 for it.

After ten years living here, I can confidently say that esmorzaret is one of my favourite Valencian traditions. It’s wonderfully unpretentious, extremely sociable and, as far as I’m concerned, an excellent excuse to eat an enormous sandwich before lunch.

And somehow, despite everything you’ve already eaten, you’ll probably still be expected to sit down for another substantial meal at two or three in the afternoon.

OVER TO YOU!

Do you enjoy a traditional Valencian almuerzo? What’s your favourite bocadillo, and more importantly, where do you think serves the best esmorzaret in Valencia?

I’d love to hear your recommendations. I’m always happy to discover another great neighbourhood bar, especially one that takes its sandwiches seriously!

14/10/2026

RIVER BAR: SUNNY TERRACE, LIVE SPORT & EVENING MUSIC, GREAT FOOD & THE BEST GUINNESS IN TOWN

Right next to the Turia Gardens, River Bar has a fabulous location and a huge sunny terrace. Add excellent b**rs on tap, beautifully made cocktails and probably the best Guinness in town, and you’ve got plenty of reasons to settle in for an afternoon.

I recently tried their new handmade focaccia sandwiches, and they were incredible. There’s a mouth-watering selection of fillings, from steak, provolone and chimichurri mayo to mortadella, burrata and pistachio. My favourite was the Río Grande, with salami, chorizo, honey and jalapeños. The menu also covers those bar-food favourites: homemade beef cheek croquetas, crunchy pork torreznos, chicken wings and fabulous burgers. Watch out for their Champions League burger specials, too.

With plenty of large HD screens showing Premier League football, Champions League matches and other major sporting events, it’s a great spot for your weekend football or a European match night. There’s live music in the evenings as well, giving you another reason to stay a little longer.

Sunshine, football, good food and a freshly poured Guinness. Follow River Bar for their live music schedule, upcoming matches and Champions League burger specials. Put it on your list.

River Bar Valencia 🍻

14/10/2026

AGUA DE VALENCIA: THE WONDERFUL STORY BEHIND VALENCIA’S MOST FAMOUS COCKTAIL

It might look like a harmless glass of freshly squeezed orange juice, but don’t be fooled. Agua de Valencia is a delicious and surprisingly potent combination of Valencian oranges, cava, gin and vodka. And its origins go back to 1959, when a Galician painter created what would become one of Valencia’s most famous drinks.

The story begins at Cervecería Madrid, a popular bar at number 10, Calle de la Abadía de San Martín, in the heart of Valencia’s Old Town. The bar was run by Constante Gil, a Galician painter who had moved to Valencia in 1948 and whose establishment became a favourite meeting place for local artists, writers and intellectuals.

Among his regular customers was a group of Basque businessmen who enjoyed ordering sparkling w**e, jokingly calling it Agua de Bilbao, or Water of Bilbao. One evening, they challenged Constante to create something different, something distinctly Valencian.

Constante responded by mixing freshly squeezed Valencian orange juice with sparkling w**e, gin, vodka and a little sugar. He called his creation Agua de Valencia, a playful response to their beloved Agua de Bilbao. The customers loved it, and although the cocktail remained something of a local secret for several years, by the 1970s its popularity had spread throughout the city.

A COCKTAIL MADE FOR SHARING

Unlike many cocktails, Agua de Valencia is traditionally served in a large jug and shared among friends, usually poured into wide ch*****ne glasses. It’s a drink that perfectly captures Valencia’s sociable Mediterranean lifestyle, where an evening of conversation can easily continue into the early hours.

The original combination of fresh orange juice, cava, gin and vodka remains the favourite, although variations include ch*****ne instead of cava, a splash of orange liqueur or slightly different proportions. One word of warning, though. The sweetness of the oranges disguises just how strong this wonderful cocktail can be!

AND WHAT HAPPENED TO THE ORIGINAL BAR?

The original Cervecería Madrid closed in 2000, but the premises were later restored and reopened as Café Madrid, which still exists today at the same address, now forming part of the Marqués House boutique hotel.

So, remarkably, you can still enjoy an Agua de Valencia in the very place where Constante Gil invented it more than sixty years ago. Not bad for a cocktail that began as a friendly challenge between a few customers and a creative Galician painter!

MY STREETS OF VALENCIA AGUA DE VALENCIA ARTWORK

I’ve created my own special Streets of Valencia gallery-grade canvas print, measuring 50 × 70 cm, celebrating this iconic Valencian cocktail, which you can see below.

Message me or leave a comment below if you’re interested.

14/10/2026

WHAT DOES €1,000 A MONTH ACTUALLY RENT YOU IN VALENCIA IN 2026? THE ANSWER MIGHT SHOCK YOU!

We’ve all seen the increasingly frequent demonstrations taking place in Valencia, Madrid, Barcelona and other Spanish cities, with thousands of people protesting against soaring rents, the shortage of affordable housing and the growing difficulty of finding somewhere to live. But just how bad has the situation become? I thought I’d take a closer look at what €1,000 a month actually gets you in ten different neighbourhoods across Valencia. The results might help explain why so many people are taking to the streets.

To put things into perspective, according to the Spanish Tax Agency, the average annual salary in Valencia province was just €24,209 in 2024, equivalent to approximately €2,017 gross per month when spread across twelve months. That’s before tax and social security contributions, and many younger workers earn considerably less. With modest apartments now costing €1,200, €1,400 or even €1,500 a month, it’s easy to understand why living independently has become almost impossible for many people. Even a €1,000 rental would consume around half the average gross monthly salary, leaving very little for bills, food and everyday living expenses.

When I first moved to Valencia ten years ago, €1,000 was a generous rental budget. You could expect a comfortable two or three-bedroom apartment in a desirable neighbourhood, perhaps with a balcony and plenty of natural light. Today, that amount might barely secure a tiny studio in Gran Vía or a small one-bedroom apartment in Ruzafa, assuming you can find somewhere offering a normal long-term contract.

So let’s take a look at ten Valencia neighbourhoods and what people are being asked to pay. These are examples of advertised properties rather than guaranteed availability, but they give a revealing picture of the city’s rental market.

1. GRAN VÍA: €1,000 MIGHT GET YOU A TINY STUDIO

One of Valencia’s most elegant and desirable residential neighbourhoods is now well beyond the reach of many ordinary working people. I found an 18-square-metre interior studio advertised for €900 a month, while a 45-square-metre one-bedroom apartment without a lift was asking €1,000. A renovated two-bedroom apartment measuring 76 square metres was advertised for €1,550. If you’re looking for somewhere comfortable with a bit of space and natural light, €1,000 isn’t going to get you very far.

2. RUZAFA: EVEN €1,200 CAN BE A CHALLENGE

Ruzafa’s fashionable restaurants, cafés and international atmosphere have made it one of Valencia’s most popular neighbourhoods, but popularity comes at a price. A 45-square-metre one-bedroom apartment was advertised for €1,100, while a 75-square-metre two-bedroom property was asking €1,200. A renovated one-bedroom apartment with a patio was advertised for €1,500 on a temporary contract. Comfortable apartments frequently cost €1,200 to €1,700 or considerably more, making €1,000 an extremely restrictive budget.

3. EL CARMEN: HISTORIC CHARM COMES AT A PRICE

I spend a great deal of time walking through El Carmen, and I understand why people want to live among its medieval streets and beautiful squares. However, a 41-square-metre studio was advertised for €1,000, while a renovated 85-square-metre one-bedroom apartment was asking €1,550. A two-bedroom property overlooking the Torres de Serranos was advertised for €2,350. You might occasionally find something cheaper, but you’ll probably have to compromise on size, condition, natural light or other comforts.

4. BENIMACLET: STILL SOME HOPE FOR €1,000

Benimaclet retains much of its traditional village atmosphere, although its popularity with students and younger residents has increased rental demand. I found a 65-square-metre two-bedroom apartment for €875, but it was unfurnished, on the fourth floor without a lift and didn’t include a fridge or washing machine. Another two-bedroom property was asking €1,100. There are still occasional opportunities here, although many affordable apartments come with restrictions or temporary contracts.

5. EL CABANYAL: THE SEASIDE BARGAINS ARE DISAPPEARING

El Cabanyal has changed enormously, and its colourful streets and proximity to the Mediterranean have made it increasingly desirable. A tiny 23-square-metre studio was advertised for €970 on a temporary contract, while a 50-square-metre studio was asking €1,100. Another property advertised for €1,000 was only available for a few months. Some landlords prefer shorter rentals so they can charge higher prices during the lucrative summer season, making it harder for people who simply want a permanent home near the beach.

6. PATRAIX: ONE OF THE BETTER OPTIONS

Patraix remains a lovely traditional neighbourhood with local shops, cafés and a strong sense of community. I found a 70-square-metre two-bedroom apartment advertised for €900 a month, although it was on the third floor without a lift. Smaller studios were available for around €750. Compared with more fashionable neighbourhoods, Patraix still offers occasional opportunities for people with a €1,000 budget, although competition for affordable apartments can be intense.

7. CAMPANAR: IT DEPENDS WHICH PART YOU CHOOSE

Campanar combines traditional village streets with modern residential developments, and prices vary considerably. A renovated 45-square-metre one-bedroom apartment was advertised for €950, while a 77-square-metre two-bedroom apartment near the metro was asking €1,350. Larger properties and modern developments with swimming pools, parking and other facilities generally cost considerably more. You might find something small for €1,000, but don’t expect an enormous choice.

8. MALILLA: NOT THE BARGAIN YOU MIGHT EXPECT

Malilla has experienced significant residential development, attracting families looking for modern accommodation outside the historic centre. However, I found an 80-square-metre two-bedroom apartment advertised for €1,300, while several three-bedroom properties were asking around €1,400. Newer developments with terraces, parking and communal swimming pools frequently cost €1,600 to €1,800 or more. Finding a modern family apartment for €1,000 is increasingly difficult.

9. BENICALAP: AFFORDABLE, BUT FOR HOW MUCH LONGER?

Traditionally one of Valencia’s more affordable neighbourhoods, Benicalap is also experiencing rising rents. I found a tiny 30-square-metre one-bedroom apartment advertised for €1,000, while a 60-square-metre two-bedroom property was asking €1,050. Another furnished two-bedroom apartment was advertised for €1,100. As people are priced out of central neighbourhoods, demand spreads into areas such as Benicalap, pushing prices higher.

10. LA SAÏDIA: CLOSE TO THE CENTRE, BUT NO LONGER CHEAP

Just across the Turia Gardens from the Old Town, La Saïdia has become increasingly attractive to people wanting to remain close to central Valencia. A renovated 87-square-metre two-bedroom apartment was advertised for €1,350, while a three-bedroom apartment in Morvedre was asking €1,550 on a temporary contract. Another renovated property in Marxalenes was advertised for €1,700. Finding somewhere around €1,000 is still possible occasionally, but the choice is becoming increasingly limited.

AND THEN THERE’S THE PROBLEM OF TEMPORARY RENTAL CONTRACTS

Something that particularly struck me while looking through these advertisements was how many apartments were only available on temporary contracts, known as alquiler de temporada. Some were restricted to students, while others were advertised for just nine or ten months, leaving the properties available during July and August when landlords may be able to charge considerably more to holidaymakers and short-term visitors.

Imagine finally finding an apartment you can afford, only to discover that you have to leave at the end of June because the landlord wants to rent it out for more money during the summer. Where are you supposed to go for those two months? This doesn’t apply to every temporary rental, and genuine seasonal contracts are perfectly legitimate, but it’s another major headache for people looking for a secure home. Calling a contract temporary also doesn’t automatically remove the legal protections that apply when a property is genuinely someone’s permanent residence.

SO, WHO CAN STILL AFFORD TO LIVE IN VALENCIA?

After ten years living here, I’ve watched Valencia become increasingly fashionable, international and expensive. I understand why people want to move here. The climate, beaches, architecture, food and quality of life are extraordinary, and I still feel incredibly fortunate to call this city home. But I worry about what these changes mean for the people who were born here, grew up here and simply want to continue living in their own neighbourhoods.

Someone earning €1,500 a month would need to spend two-thirds of their income on a €1,000 apartment. Even somebody earning €2,000 would lose half their earnings before paying for electricity, groceries or transport. And while €1,200 might seem reasonable to somebody arriving from London or Amsterdam, local Spanish salaries are very different from those in northern Europe.

Perhaps that’s something worth remembering when we see housing demonstrations in Plaza del Ayuntamiento and other Spanish cities. Behind those banners are ordinary people who work hard and simply want somewhere secure and affordable to live. Valencia needs its teachers, nurses, shop workers, waiters, young families and elderly residents just as much as it needs tourists and fashionable new developments. If ordinary people can no longer afford to live here, something important will have been lost.

NOW, I’D REALLY LIKE TO HEAR FROM YOU.

If you’re renting in Valencia, which neighbourhood do you live in, and how much are you paying? Have you recently searched for an apartment, and were you surprised by the prices or the number of temporary contracts?

I’d be particularly interested to hear from people who’ve lived here for ten or twenty years. How much has your rent increased, and do you think Valencia is becoming unaffordable for ordinary working people?

And perhaps the biggest question of all: should €1,000 a month still be enough to rent a comfortable two-bedroom apartment in Valencia, or have those days gone forever?

13/10/2026

Ringo is happy to finally be having a quiet night at home! That was a wild extra long weekend!

13/10/2026

10 LITTLE THINGS ABOUT VALENCIA THAT YOU ONLY UNDERSTAND AFTER LIVING HERE

After ten years of living in Valencia, there are certain things about life here that I've come to accept as completely normal. Things that might seem slightly strange, amusing or even downright baffling to somebody who's just arrived in the city.

Coming from the UK, I remember finding some aspects of Spanish life rather surprising when I first moved here. Nowadays, I barely give them a second thought. In fact, many of these little differences are precisely what make living in Valencia so enjoyable.

Here are ten things I've learned about life in this wonderful Mediterranean city.

1. THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A QUIET CELEBRATION

If there's something to celebrate in Valencia, you can almost guarantee that fireworks, music and enormous explosions will be involved. Sometimes you know exactly what's being celebrated. Other times, you're woken by something resembling artillery fire at eight o'clock on a Sunday morning and simply accept that somebody, somewhere, must be having a wonderful time.

2. DINNER AT 7 PM IS PRACTICALLY LUNCH

When I first arrived in Spain, the idea of eating dinner at ten o'clock at night seemed ridiculous. Now I regularly see entire families sitting outside restaurants at 10.30 pm, with small children still playing happily around the tables. Nobody seems remotely concerned about bedtime. Meanwhile, back in Britain, most children would have been tucked up in bed hours earlier.

3. THE CITY HAS A SECOND BREAKFAST

Forget grabbing a sandwich at your desk. In Valencia, we have esmorzaret, a glorious mid-morning institution involving enormous bocadillos, olives, peanuts, drinks and plenty of conversation. It's a tradition that takes breakfast very seriously indeed. And once you've experienced a leisurely Valencian almuerzo with friends, it's difficult to imagine returning to a miserable packet of crisps in front of a computer.

4. EVERYBODY HAS AN OPINION ABOUT PAELLA

Put chorizo in a paella and you might as well declare war on the Valencian people. Mention peas, seafood or other unconventional ingredients, and you're entering dangerous territory. Every family has its own recipe, every grandmother knows best, and everybody seems convinced that their version is the only authentic one. I've learned that when it comes to paella, it's generally safer to listen than to offer suggestions.

5. DOGS ARE PART OF THE SOCIAL FABRIC

Walking around Valencia with Ringo, my beagle, is rarely a straightforward journey from A to B. At least three times during a typical walk, somebody will shout his name, come running over and give him a good fuss. Dogs seem to be wonderfully integrated into everyday life here, accompanying their owners to cafés, terraces and all sorts of social occasions. Sometimes I suspect Ringo has a considerably more active social life than I do.

6. A FIVE-MINUTE CONVERSATION CAN LAST HALF AN HOUR

One of the things I love about Valencia is how much people enjoy talking. Neighbours stop for conversations in the street, friends bump into one another outside cafés, and a simple trip to the supermarket can become an unexpectedly lengthy social occasion. People generally don't seem to be in quite the same hurry to get somewhere else. There is always time for another conversation.

7. THE WEATHER COMPLETELY CHANGES YOUR EXPECTATIONS

When you grow up in Britain, a sunny day in October feels like an unexpected gift. After ten years in Valencia, I've caught myself complaining that 22 degrees is a little chilly. It's extraordinary how quickly your expectations change. While friends and family back home are reaching for winter coats, we're still sitting outside in T-shirts, enjoying lunch on sunny terraces. I don't think I'll ever take that for granted.

8. THE ENTIRE CITY SEEMS TO DISAPPEAR IN AUGUST

If you're wondering why your favourite neighbourhood restaurant, bakery or little independent shop has suddenly closed for several weeks, there's a good chance it's August. Many Valencians head for the coast, their holiday homes or cooler destinations, and parts of the city become remarkably quiet. When everyone returns in September, the familiar rhythm of neighbourhood life begins again.

9. THERE IS ALWAYS ANOTHER FIESTA JUST AROUND THE CORNER

Just when you think the celebrations have finished, another one begins. Fallas, Semana Santa, Sant Joan, neighbourhood festivals, religious processions, local holidays and countless other occasions fill the calendar. Streets are decorated, roads are closed, marching bands appear from nowhere, and the city celebrates with an enthusiasm that I've never experienced anywhere else. Sometimes it feels as though Valencia spends half the year preparing for a party and the other half enjoying one.

10. YOU EVENTUALLY REALISE THAT LIFE DOESN'T HAVE TO BE SUCH A RUSH

Perhaps this is the biggest thing I've learned during my decade in Valencia. Life here certainly isn't perfect, and people work just as hard and have just as many worries as they do anywhere else. But there's something about the importance placed on family, friendships, food and spending time outdoors that has genuinely changed the way I live.

An afternoon sitting on a terrace with friends doesn't feel like wasted time. Neither does a long lunch, an evening stroll through the city or simply sitting in a square watching the world go by.

And perhaps that's why, after ten years, I still feel incredibly fortunate to call Valencia home.

OVER TO YOU!

If you've lived in Valencia for a while, what little things about everyday life here have you come to love, accept or still find completely baffling?

And if you've recently moved here, what's been your biggest culture shock?

I'd love to hear your experiences. I'm sure we could easily come up with another ten!

12/10/2026

Not bad for October 12th 🌞

Streets of Valencia

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