01/09/2026
TORTILLA DE PATATAS: SPAIN’S SIMPLEST GREAT DISH
There are probably more impressive dishes in Spanish cooking, but I’m not sure there are many more important ones than tortilla de patatas. You see it everywhere. On the counter of the most ordinary neighbourhood bar, cut into thick wedges at lunchtime, inside a bocadillo, taken to the beach, made at home and argued over endlessly.
And for something so familiar, nobody can say with complete certainty where it came from.
The potato arrived in Spain from South America in the 16th century, but for a surprisingly long time Europeans weren’t particularly enthusiastic about eating it. It was really during the 18th and 19th centuries that potatoes became an important everyday food, particularly for poorer families because they were cheap, filling and easy to grow.
Some of the earliest references to potatoes being used in tortillas appear in the late 18th century, while a document presented to the Cortes of Navarra in 1817 talks about people stretching eggs with potatoes to make food go further. There is also the famous story that tortilla was invented for the Carlist general Zumalacárregui during the 1830s. It’s a lovely story, but unfortunately there isn’t much evidence that it’s true.
The reality is probably much less romantic. Somebody had potatoes. Somebody had eggs. Somebody had a frying pan. At some point they put them together. It was cheap, filling and tasted bloody good, so other people did the same.
And that’s really the beauty of tortilla. It isn’t grand restaurant food. It’s ordinary food that became part of Spanish life. Every family seems to make it slightly differently and every bar seems convinced theirs is the correct way. Thick or thin, runny in the middle or properly set, potatoes sliced or roughly broken up. You can start an argument before you’ve even reached the important question.
Onion.
Here’s the interesting bit. Historically, the sin cebolla people may actually have a point. Older recipes generally consisted simply of potato and egg, and onion only became widely used much later. Personally, I don’t care. Two hundred years of history can be wrong.
For me it has to be con cebolla. The sweetness and softness of the onion just makes a tortilla better. Apparently around 70% of Spaniards agree, so I’m quite comfortable with my position.
But this argument will probably still be going on in another 200 years.
So, Streets of Valencia, con cebolla or sin cebolla?