08/07/2025
It is not just a World Heritage Site, but a true wonder of the world. When hundreds of pilgrims in white robes gather in the courtyards of the churches, it is to witness Christianity in its purest and most powerful form.
Lalibela, the smallest of the three former capitals that form the core of Ethiopia’s historical circuit, is therefore where you will find a labyrinthine complex of thirteen medieval rock-hewn churches and chapels associated with Emperor Lalibela. The churches of Lalibela were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1978 and undoubtedly represent the pinnacle of the Ethiopian tradition of temple excavations, which may have predated the arrival of Christianity in the fourth century AD. For all their architectural sophistication, perhaps the most remarkable thing about these churches is that they are not primarily museum exhibits or archaeological finds, but living, breathing places of worship that have been actively used since their excavations more than eight hundred years ago.
Given its historical origins, the town of Lalibela itself is more modest than one might expect, with an estimated population of 15,000, an aura of mountain rusticity that is gradually being eroded by tourism, and a sprawling landscape shaped by the same slopes and outcrops into which its churches are carved. The city is also located in a very isolated location, at a high altitude of 2630 m among rocky hills overlooking Mount Abune Yoseph.
It is difficult to separate fact from fiction when it comes to the history of Lalibela and its churches. Oral tradition suggests that the city, originally known as Debre (Mount) Roha, was founded in the eleventh century or earlier as the capital of the Zagwe dynasty, but there is no doubt that its most famous ruler was Emperor Gebre Meskel Lalibela, after whom the place was renamed centuries later. According to legend, Lalibela was destined for great things as a child when a sacred swarm of bees settled on his body (his name is said to come from an archaic phrase meaning "the bees acknowledge his sovereignty"). Lalibela became emperor around 1180 after a protracted struggle for secession, and shortly thereafter received a divine vision that commanded him to recreate Jerusalem in stone at Debre Roha.
Tradition has it that he personally fulfilled this vision by excavating all of the rock-hewn churches of the city (along with several other similar buildings scattered throughout the rest of Ethiopia) during his forty-year reign, often with the help of angels. In fact, the stylistic variations visible in the churches of Lalibela, not to mention the intensive labor required to hew them out of solid rock, make excavation unlikely within a few decades.
Two different methods were used for the excavations. Subterranean monoliths, such as Bet Giyorgis and Medhane Alem, were created by cutting a deep trench-like trench down into the rock, leaving behind a free-standing block of rock into which the church itself was carved—a method of excavation unique to Ethiopia. Other churches were carved into the vertical rock face, often using existing caves or crevices.
A more likely scenario, then, is that the churches were excavated over several centuries, and that some began as secular fortresses or palaces but were later rebuilt. However, it seems likely that Emperor Lalibela was responsible for unifying the complex as a whole and also for excavating the newest and most modern churches. Whatever the truth, the churches at Lalibela were undoubtedly in place by the late fifteenth century, when the Portuguese explorer Pêro da Covilhã became the first foreigner to visit the site.
The church complex at Lalibela, located in the heart of the small town, consists of three main sites: a northwestern group of 6 churches and chapels; a further 4 churches forming a southeastern group; and the freestanding Bet Giyorgis, located to the west of both. It is a compact site, with none of the churches being more than 500m (as the crow flies) from the others, and all lying within 300m of the main road, although the distances may seem longer on the winding, sloping paths that connect the groups. We saw TEN
The most iconic of Lalibela’s churches is Bet Giyorgis, a 15-meter-high monolith carved into the shape of a symmetrical cross. Legend has it that it was the last church to be excavated at Lalibela, and that its namesake, Saint George, was so thrilled with the result that in his excitement he rode his horse right through the wall into the entrance tunnel, leaving hoof prints that are said to be visible to this day. Seen from above, this moss-covered cross, set in a deep, hand-carved courtyard with the hills surrounding Lalibela providing a sensational backdrop, is an absolutely magnificent sight. The interior, by contrast, is so unexpectedly small and cramped that you’ll probably think twice about returning.
A popular day trip destination, Asheton Maryam Monastery is one of the highest monasteries in Ethiopia, located at an altitude of over 3,000 meters southeast of Lalibela. Carved into a cliff, it was most likely founded by Nakuta La’ab, who may also be buried there. The small and unassuming church houses some impressive crosses, illuminated manuscripts, and other treasures, although the most remarkable aspect of a visit to Asheton Maryam is probably its beautiful setting and the stunning views upon climbing it.
Lalibela has been described as the sub-Saharan answer to Angkor Wat or Machu Picchu. It's true that Lalibela isn't as ancient as either of these sites, but its medieval churches are better than both, because they are not the mute ruins of a half-forgotten civilization, but active sanctuaries that have been in continuous use since they were hand-carved into the pink volcanic cylinder beneath the city.
