MAhout, The Manor, Manor Road, Great Bourton, Banbury (2026)

14/04/2026

Indian Odyssey.... as we head home from our magical month in the motherland, I leave you with some faces of India. Their welcoming smiles say it all....come to India and be embraced...immerse, learn and slow down! We've had a fantastic, inspirational time in Rajasthan, the eastern states of Odisha (Orissa) and Bengal, and the glorious Himalayan foothills.

Thank you to all our friends and colleagues, to all those who looked after us and made it happen.....we can't wait to return.

MAhout

12/04/2026

Indian Odyssey........ Our penultimate destination is the glorious Glenburn Tea Estate, tucked away in the Himalayan foothills of West Bengal, outside Darjeeling. There is no finer Himalayan hideaway than this. 8 divinely pretty bedrooms occupy 2 bungalows (soon to be 16 rooms in 3 bungalows) on the thriving tea estate. The views, the peace, the food, the ever-smiling staff, the space, are things we all crave and Glenburn has it all. Cool and breezy in the warmer months, and warm and cosy in winter; the walking trails here are superb - down to the river, around the tea garden, or up into the hills- take your pick. A full 'tea tour' here is authentic, fascinating and inclusive! If wanting a more sedentary time, there are pretty verandahs and elegant sitting rooms to chill out in, where time stands still and only the birdsong disturbs you.

For those who know the property of old and had to suffer the final approach to the property.....no longer!......the new road is bliss - smooth as a baby's bottom!

If you happen to be there on a Sunday, walk 10 mins down to the church and join the service.....one of the most moving, humbling, spiritual, beautiful and precious moments I've had in a long time.

Come here for the ultimate mountain moment at the start or end of an Indian journey.

MAhout
Glenburn Tea Estate & Boutique Hotel

11/04/2026

Indian Odyssey........ So....from the peace of the countryside to the chaos of gridlocked Kolkata (Calcutta) in the rain. Fun to be back in this historic city where the old is juxtaposed with the new; it seethes with life and people; and is replete with stories and intrigue. Nothing can be more wonderful than arriving here and being whisked of to the exquisite Glenburn Penthouse! There simply IS no other place to stay in Cal, with its surprising but genius location at the top of an office block, bang in the middle of town. Our 'home' in this great city, the views are outrageous, the interiors make you want to take it all back home, the rooftop pool is unique, the food exceptional. Whether relaxing in the beautiful sitting room or sipping a cocktail on the terrace overlooking the Victoria Memorial, or spending time in your glorious bedroom, everything here is pretty, elegant, sophisticated and perfect. We had a fab time wandering the streets and catching up with old friends, and trying out new restaurants. City life.....fun!

MAhout
Glenburn Penthouse

09/04/2026

Indian Odyssey........ A wonderful day exploring the countryside and crafts of Mayurbhanj. With water everywhere, it's green and fecund; Sal forest, vibrant green paddy fields, ponds and lakes alive with pink and white lotus and waterlillies, rich, red laterite earth pathways leading off to timeless, untouched villages full of friendly people. It feels pure. One does not feel voyeuristic nor exploitative, but genuinely part of it. Giggling with the girls as I tried my hand, disastrously, at the ancient art of Sabai (grass weaving), was a truly happy moment. Similarly, in another village, watching the Dokra metal casters at work was humbling and gripping. A 4000 year old lost-wax casting technique, it's intricate, time consuming and hot work. The sculptures they produce are unique and extraordinary.

A stroll round Baripad was also a treat - visiting the huge, former Royal palace now a school....i fear we disrupted a class of shy, giggling teenagers; and the excellent library, were low key and lovely. Just up our street!

It was a privilege to observe and to be a part it all at Belgadia Palace. Everything here is about supporting the local communities and keeping ancient arts and crafts and dance alive! I just wish we'd had time to do all the other things on offer - the haat (weekly market), the textile weavers, the walking / birding trails....AND a swim in their glistening pool!

MAhout
The Belgadia Palace

08/04/2026

Indian Odyssey........ So now we head to the north-eastern part of Orissa, on a beautiful journey through the rural heartlands of the state. Our halt is at the wonderful Belgadia Palace in the thriving town of Baripada, capital of the former Royal kingdom of Mayurbhanj. The Belgadia Palace is a grand, stately 200-year-old Victorian-era royal residence. Built in 1804 on the orders of Maharani Sumitra Devi Bhanj Deo as a royal guesthouse, it is now the home of the current royal family of Mayurbhanj. They have opened their doors to guests, whilst retaining 2 wings as their private residence. It has been immaculately restored and converted by charming, worldly Princesses Mrinalika and Aksh*ta Bhanjdeo. Bold colours predominate... rooms of bright blue, yellow, red, green and pink...but it works! The 12 bedrooms are large, lofty and comfortable, with the 4 huge Royal Suites taking you back to a bygone age. The palace has grand reception rooms replete with the family's history, furniture, art and photos. Surrounded by beautiful gardens, with a lovely pool, it's fascinating to explore. Beautifully managed by Soutam and his superb team of smiley, gentle, caring staff, this is a place to come for at least 3 nights. Suresh, the masseur, is genius!

Easily accessed from Calcutta and Bhubaneshwar, it offers a glimpse into the past; is admirably involved in 'giving back' to the local community, and is actively supporting the the continuation of local crafts, dance and martial arts. There is a plethora of things to see and do, exploring the local, tribal craft villages....see next post!

A very special place!

MAhout
The Belgadia Palace

06/04/2026

Indian Odyssey........ Due to 'rain stopping play' yesterday evening, we set off early this morning to visit the The Jagannath Temple, looming over the city like a vast fortress. We travelled by tuk tuk through the maze of tiny, filthy alleyways that make up the old city..... unlike pristine Bhubaneshwar, Puri is dominated by discarded plastic! 😭

Jagannath is a 12thC masterpiece of Kalinga architecture and one of the four sacred Char Dham pilgrimage sites for Hindus. It is a dense, high-walled microcosm of Hindu ritualism, where the air is heavy with the scent of woodsmoke from the vast, soot-blackened kitchens and the press of thousands of pilgrims who flock here daily. Dedicated to Lord Jagannath (a form of Vishnu/Krishna), it uniquely houses him alongside his siblings, Balabhadra and Subhadra.
Unlike most temples, the deities here are carved from neem wood. Its kitchen is considered the largest in the world, preparing Mahaprasad for thousands daily. The temple is world-famous for its annual Rath Yatra, where the deities travel in massive chariots to the Gundicha Temple down the wide boulevard, lined with dharamsalas, chaotic stores and colourful stalls. The shrine is also shrouded in mystery, with legends claiming it casts no shadow and that its flag always flies against the wind.

Wandering around the seething perimeter, one is confronted with a spectacle of mass devotion and deep faith, both chaotic and yet meticulously ordered .... a living relic of an India that remains stubbornly, magnificently resistant to the inexorable forces of modernity.

We continued to the peaceful, well presented Udayagiri Caves, just outside Bhubaneshwar.... 18 ancient rock-cut shelters. Built in the 2nd century BCE by King Kharavela, they served as residential quarters for Jain monks. Having been ransacked to build the Sun Temple, some retain historic inscriptions and detailed carvings.

MAhout

05/04/2026

Indian Odyssey........ Happy Easter from this happy chappy! Today was all about the staggering Sun Temple at Konark, a 13th-century UNESCO World Heritage site built by King Narasimhadeva I around 1250 CE. Designed as a colossal chariot for the sun god Surya, it features 24 intricately carved stone wheels drawn by seven horses. The temple is renowned for its Kalinga architecture and detailed carvings of daily life, dancers, and musicians. Despite no longer a living temple and partly collspsed, the scale of it is immense and it can't fail to impress.

We then had a magical time exploring the 'craft' side of the area. Weavers creating extraordinary saris and stoles, pattachitra (12th century cloth-based scroll art) painters, and colourful craftspeople's houses.....peaceful, informative and so welcoming.

We stayed at the excellent new Taj Puri...a large but immaculate hotel on a long stretch of wild beach, at one end if town. Various restaurants, lovely spa, delightful, friendly staff....just what you want in this, heaving, pilgrimage city. Faith dominates here and it's humbling to observe. Love Odisha!

MAhout

04/04/2026

Indian Odyssey........ We've turned south, leaving the 'temple town' behind us and heading to the southern tip of beautiful Chilika Lake. Famed for its vast array of migratory birds, along with many resident species, it's India's largest brackish lagoon and has an ecosystem all of its own. A series of 'water roads' link the wetlands to multiple small, fishing villages. It's beautiful, peaceful and educational.

Odisha is also known for its ikat / tie die weaving and watching the weavers at work can't help but fill you with respect and admiration for their extraordinary skill.

Our halt was in the bustling, friendly village / town of Rhamba at the newly restored Rhamba Palace. Originally the British Collector's residence and then the Royal Family's, it is every bit the grand, colonial mansion. Now a delightful, immaculate hotel with 16 very comfortable rooms, extremely good food and beautiful, formal gardens, its a fabulous place to take time out from temples! Its just a short stroll to the shimmering lake and into the village. Fountains, lawns, colonnaded verandahs, airy balconies and sweeping staircases...love a bit of red carpet🤣.... outside; lofty rooms, funky bar, billiard room, elegant sitting rooms, gleaming wooden floors and staircases inside. The spa and huge pool are superb and the finish of everything exemplary. Definitely a 'resting place' worth stopping at.

MAhout

03/04/2026

Indian Odyssey........ A day's travel / 2 flights take us over to the eastern state of Odisha (formerly Orissa, and originally Kalinga). It broke from its neighbouring states in 1936, and abuts the Bay of Bengal to the east. I've not been back here for 25 years and had the lovely surprise of bumping into a wonderful old friend and colleague, Benjamin Simon, who ably ran our office here 38 years ago - now run by his charming son, Sanyo. Despite magnificent things to see and do - world famous architecture and temples, caves, beaches, lakes, bird life, tribal communities - it remains strangely unexploited and still feels like 'the old India'. This looks set to change with a few charming small hotels opening in key areas, thus paving the way for fascinating, diverse - and now comfortable - journeys around the state.

With a 'Golden Triangle' (Bhubaneshwar, Purity and Konarak) all of its own; good flight connections; and vastly improved roads and infrastructure......watch this space!

Our first night is in Bhubaneshwar, the state capital, and famous for its unique Kalinga temples which literally lies in their hundreds, scattered around the oldar city...the most famous being the stunning Lingaraj Temple. It's a clean, thriving, fascinating city to spend time in -full of life and colour and warmth. Limited but perfectly good hotels.....and backbreaking bargaining (pic 1) 🤣

MAhout

01/04/2026

Indian Odyssey........ And so we come to the end of our first leg.... 2 enlightening weeks in Rajasthan; the land of hills and forests, deserts and lakes, forts and temples, palaces and havelis, rural villages and buzzy cities, friends and colleagues; and wonderful Rajput hospitality. Where better to end than at divine RAAS Devigarh, one of the finest palace hotels in India. Sitting serenely above a thriving village and surrounded by a ring of Aravalli Hills, it's chic, sophisticated, sublimely comfortable and puts an ingenious modern take on traditional Rajasthani décor. Beautiful, soft colour schemes, brilliant lighting, views from heaven, huge rooms, a glistening pool, and soothing spa tempt you never to leave. Lovely walks in the hills or visits to nearby Udaipur, Nathdwara and Eklingi make for excellent outings. Leafy gardens, airy restaurants, club-like bars and excellent food only add to the perfection of this dreamy hotel. There's nowhere better as a base for Udaipur or just a restful sojourn at the end or start of a trip. Thank you to all the caring team....it's been a joy.

MAhout
RAAS Devigarh
RAAS

31/03/2026

Indian Odyssey........ We trundled on through the beautiful Aravalli Hills, alive with pockets of vibrant Flame Of the Forest in bloom. It really is a sight for sore eyes. Our halt is our spiritual home in Rajasthan...Dev Shree...where we, at last, have a day to relish not traveling. The Dev Shree Deogarh family are like 'our' family and there's nowhere better to take time out. Spending time with them all is a treat to savour. We escaped to Dev Shree for a week over Christmas during Covid and it was a special time. Today Shatrunjai and Bhavna's wonderful boys...Maha and Brighu...are very much at the helm and are doing a brilliant job. Constantly thinking up new ideas to make it even more special,, comfortable and perfect, their energy, enthusiasm and charm is boundless. There's something about Dev Shree that makes you never want to leave...the flower-filled gardens, the beautiful pool, the superb food, the friendly vibe, the lofty, pretty rooms, the glistening lake....it's all a draw. Not to mention the surrounding countryside ..... ideal for walks and hikes; leopard spotting; sundowners; cycling; pop-up lunches and dinners! The village of Deogarh is on your doorstep and has to be one if the cleanest, most friendly, authentic, vibrant, and colourful of any Rajasthani villages. It is always a highlight coming back to Dev Shree; we always have the best of fun. Thank you to all the family and your wonderful, caring, gentle staff.

MAhout
Devshree - a Stately home at Deogarh, Rajasthan

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