MAhout

20/09/2026

Autumn migration..... We leave the hills behind and continue south on the penultimate leg of our journey. We fall into the arms of our beloved spanish 'family'... the Reids... and their beautiful home Hacienda de San Rafael. To stay here is to retreat into an oasis of calm, elegance and sophistication. Rooms, casitas and the villa are full of beautiful things. Secluded pools hide away in flower-filled gardens and citrus groves. Gorgeous girls silently materialise with water or snacks just when you want them. Sleep in crisp, white sheets on deep mattresses. Feast on scrumptious fresh food with ever-changing menus painstakingly thought out and put together by Kuki. Sip cocktails under the trees as you watch the sun descend in her orange glow. Hacienda de San Rafael is a perfect gem...good for the soul.... where fascinating conversations unfold with always interesting fellow guests; where your brain quietens and your mind finds peace. Everyone should come here at least once in their lives!

Thank you Hacienda de San Rafael ,Tim, Kuks and Tony for a brief but heavenly moment.

MAhout

18/09/2026

Autumn migration..... Today was about testing my limbs, after 3 shocking months of injury in Feb, Mar, and Apr. Having suffered from chronic sciatica that had me on crutches, drop foot, a 3 fracture ankle, and 2 slipped disc episodes, I was somewhat concerned as to how my body would hold up on its first major test. We had a hearty, boosting breakfast in a lively café before wandering out of Aracena and embarking, with somev trepidation, on a 24km hike through the hills and villages of the Sierra de Aracena.

Walking through this gloriously untouched area is to wander into a forgotten world, and a landscape of ancient oaks, silver-green olive trees and cool, sweet-smelling forests. Stone paths and dried up riverbeds wind their way beneath chestnut branches and through shady avenues of giant, recently stripped red trunked cork trees. Around you the hills rise up to the horizon and provide challenging accents and descents. Sunlight filters softly through the leaves, and every bend reveals another view and changing topography and vegetation. As we marched along, listening to cowbells, birds and trickling water, we came across quiet, timeless villages...one virtually deserted today and others barely accessible but immensely pretty and just getting on with their own lives, hidden away in this beautiful corner of Andalucia

End result....we did it! A bit stiff and aching this evening, but nothing a few drugs won't sort out!

MAhout

17/09/2026

Autumn migration.....A pre-dawn start and we set off in darkness, seeing only a few solirltary pilgrims gazing up in awe at the towering cathedral. Sure enough, as we continued south, crossing the vast arid plains and wooded sierra of Extremadura, the temperature rose to a balmy and welcoming 25°. We crossed into 'our state' of Andalucia and our base for a couple of nights is the dreamy little town of Aracena, tucked away in a wonderfully untouched area between Madrid and Portugal.

Aracena sits on a hilltop amongst green hills and where ancient cork oaks, chestnut trees and crumbling stone villages soften the rugged landscape. Its whitewashed houses with red tiled roofs cascade down from the weathered 13thC castle, and the village is replete with sunlit squares and tiny, wiggly, cobbled streets winding their way. A highlight here is what lies beneath..... the mind-blowing and mysterious caves of Gruta de las Maravillas, shimmering like a hidden kingdom, where still waters, crystal walls, cathedral-like halls, thousands of years old giant stalactites and mites strive to meet each other....they glimmer and drip and cast eerie shadows that truly whisper of another world. One of the most extraordinary places I've ever been.

MAhout

16/09/2026

Autumn migration.....So we set off early this morning, travelling south through the eastern end of the Pyrenees. A rude shock awaited.....bright sunlight and 36° turned to grey skies, drizzle and 15°. All in the space of 20 mins! However, we reached Burgos in good time and a weak sun made her appearance. We've had a wonderful afternoon of tapas lunch, exploring the alleyways of the old town and soaking up the history and contents of the majestic cathedral. Tonight's halt was all about realising one of Babe's dreams.....to see the final resting place of one of his heroes- El Cid! And, talk about 'a room with a view!' An unexpected bonus.

Although with rather non-descript outskirts, Burgos is a beautiful city of stone, history and atmosphere, where the soaring Gothic cathedral catches the golden Castilian sunlight, snaking, cool shadows fall across narrow medieval streets, and church bells echo above lively plazas, and the monks bide their time in the beautiful, secluded monastery. The city lies beside the Arlanzón River which is lined with rustling poplars, and is surrounded by rolling Castilian countryside. As an important stop on the Camino de Santiago, Burgos has welcomed pilgrims for centuries and they're still passing through today. Its medieval, it's full of history and intrigue, it wonderfully small to explore on foot, it has its own distinctive and delicious food culture.

We've loved it and are BACK IN SPAIN!

MAhout

15/09/2026

Autumn migration.....the time comes around again for us to follow the birds and head south, to the warmth. Having left at 1.30am we JUST caught the 05.15am shuttle (a nightmare drive with 4 road closures and massive diversions), and trundled quietly into France. We arrived as daylight was breaking ... ghostly trees peaking out of an eerie mist that cloaked the ground, and a pink dawn with fluorescent clouds that gave way to blood orange skies as the sun gently roused herself and started climbing. Stunning.

Tonight's halt, 800kms later and as usual, is the lovely, medieval town of Bergerac. Straddling The Dordogne, its old town is a joy to potter around. Tiny alleyways open onto pretty squares, looked over by the famous half-timbered houses. The soft light of the evening sun made it all impossibly beautiful. The land of w**e and chateaux, we'll feast on Perigord salad, ciprones, and a crisp white w**e. The perfect pit stop for night 1.

MAhout

14/09/2026

Sri Lankan reflections....
Now that we're back from our superb 2500km exploratory, educational, hugely productive journey around 'the teardrop isle', various observations come to mind.
1. Sri Lanka is a happy country. After our previous visit, at the tail end of Covid, during the country's financial crisis, and shortly after the violence of the 'coup', we felt it was sad and angry. How different it is today! People are hopeful and optimistic, the government is largely popular and considered to be doing a good job, and financially the country is on a positive trajectory. Everything works like clockwork and the people embrace you with a ready smile.
2. There are a plethora of glorious new hotels throughout the country.
3. The roads are superb.
4. After the horrors of the devastating floods mainly affecting the Central Highlands last spring, it's business as usual and the repair work is exemplary.
5. The north is opening up and is a wonderfully unexploited place to visit.
6. August is a perfect time to visit almost anywhere in the country. Being between monsoons, it's a hidden window of perfect weather....albeit the far south-west coast might see some showers. Being the school holidays, it makes the perfect time for a family adventure.
7. There's somewhere perfect in terms of weather to visit year round.
8. Sri Lanka has something for everyone....beaches, colonial fort towns, historic cities, temples, jungles, wildlife, high hills, tea estates, scrumptious food, a glorious golf course, great cycling, colourful markets, and superb walking.....all with only short drives linking them all up.
9. With such a huge choice of hotels, there's something to suit all budgets.
10. Brilliantly efficient and caring people on the ground, to ensure everything runs seamlessly.
11. The topography is varied and exciting, changing every few kms.

What's not to like?! GO THERE.
Get in touch for the inside story.

MAhout

01/09/2026

Sri Lankan Sojourn.... And so we approach the end of our journey around Sri Lanka. We stay at the heavenly Why House, affably hosted by wonderful, ebullient Hen Cottam. What an oasis of peace and beauty it is. 10 rooms lie around the glorious, tropical gardens and in the main house. It feels like walking into your own home as you step inside this welcoming little hotel. Wallowing in the pool, you feel you're swimming in a jungle lake. We feasted and supped and chatted, with gentle, smiling staff looking after our every need.

Our last hotel visits were to the divine Sun House in Galle, now back to its former glory and a veritable gem of a place; and also to the gloriously spacious, sophisticated Tanamera Estate.... a 3 bedroom villa sitting right on the ocean.

Our final day was spent cycling round the paddy fields, wetlands and villages inland, courtesy of brilliant Idle Bikes who have bikes for all (including electric), and who arrange immaculately curated rides of any duration. What fun we had, followed by a fab feast of a lunch with dear friends. The perfect swansong.

Thank you Henrietta Cottam and Why House

Idle Bikes and
The Sun House

MAhout

27/08/2026

Sri Lankan Sojourn....We're now down on the beautiful but busy south coast. The land of long, golden beaches and a plethora of glorious boutique hotels and villas. There really is something for everyone here...grand modern, slick villas; traditional, cosy villas; airy, clifftop hotels; and small, beachside hotels. Wonderful beach walks, kayaking on the lagoon, visits to cinnamon farms, fab restaurants. We got caught at high tide and had an interesting adventure climbing through the mangroves!

My favourite of the hotels we visited was magical Monara with 7 heavenly bedrooms, just a 50m walk up from the beach. Whitewash and lime and pastels are the bywords at this pristine, refreshing gem. Views, breezes, divine pool, space! ......rent by the room or take the whole villa.

We are staying at my favourite Last House (the last house built by renowned architect Geoffrey Bawa) which sits tucked away at one end of lovely Seenimodara Beach, Mawella. With just 5 pretty, traditional rooms scattered around the premises, there are deeply comfortable, shady verandahs, a beautiful pool; and a leafy garden leads directly onto the beach. What's not to like?!

Thank you Manor House Concepts The Last House Monara Tangalle

MAhout

26/08/2026

26/08/2026

Sri Lankan Sojourn....We've now come right down to the far south-east tip of 'the teardrop isle', to its wild, rugged and windswept coast. Destination .... the beautiful Yala National Park, covering over 1000sq km of jungle, scrub, dunes, woodland, lakes, reservoirs, salt flats, and coastal savannah. We visited various properties.....2 dreadful, 2 lovely gems.....again, don't be fooled by websites!

Our halt is heavenly, spoiling Uga Chena Huts....what a place. 19 outrageously wonderful, huge 'huts' with their own pools and space enough to host a party in. The staff is unfailingly good: the location in the woods and on a sand dune equally so. Sip a cocktail in the sand watching the sun go down, listening to the crashing waves; chill out in the fab bar; and dine under the stars.

Yala IS a busy park but Uga manage the game drives to perfection and know how to avoid the crowds. It has the added bonus of being one of only 5 properties in the buffer zone and is only 15 mins from the gate....other hotels are up to an hour away, making an early start even earlier! Being aliya (elephant) lovers, they were our priority over leopard and sloth bear, for which Yala is famous. We were rewarded in droves....the famous, fearless, precocious tusker, Gemunu. What a fine beast...we watched him charging about trying to steal food from jeeps. A glorious herd of mothers and babies then fiddled around right next to us. We could not have asked for more! Not many parks in the world abut the ocean, where you'll see bear, leopard and elephant strolling the beaches!

Thank you and all the delightful team at Uga Chena Huts and