30/11/2025
Delhi: A Journey of Contrasts and Connection
Our adventure began in New Delhi, where modern India meets colonial history. As part of the TTG LGBTQIA+ Travel Ambassador programme, supported by Intrepid Travel and Virgin Atlantic, I had the opportunity to experience the capital through a completely different lens. We touched down in India via Virgin Atlantic, having departed from Heathrow after enjoying the seamless Upper Class Wing check-in and a relaxing visit to the Virgin Atlantic Clubhouse.
Sadly, Delhi Pride, which was scheduled during our stay, was cancelled due to security concerns. However, we had the privilege of visiting Depot 48, Delhi’s only openly LGBTQIA+ bar. It was more than just a place to eat or drink – it was a true community hub. The owners welcomed us warmly and shared how they’ve created a safe, inclusive space in a city where visibility still comes with challenges. Despite the official parade being called off, Depot 48 hosted the Pride afterparty, keeping the spirit of celebration and solidarity alive.
We toured New Delhi, with its wide avenues and colonial-era buildings like India Gate, Rashtrapati Bhavan, and Parliament House. The city’s scale and order were striking compared to the vibrancy and chaos of Old Delhi, which awaited us next.
Old Delhi: History, Heritage, and a Hijra Home
Old Delhi is a sensory explosion – a tangled web of narrow streets, spices in the air, rickshaws weaving between pedestrians, and centuries of history at every turn. But what made it truly memorable was experiencing it through the eyes of Batool, a transgender guide who led our Intrepid Urban Adventure food walk and a powerful LGBTQIA+-focused heritage tour.
One of the most emotional and eye-opening moments of the entire trip was our visit to a Hijra home. In South Asian culture, Hijras are a recognised third gender, with deep cultural and spiritual significance, yet they often live on the margins of society. We were welcomed into the home of a remarkable Hijra woman who has opened her doors to 15 other Hijra women, creating a sanctuary of safety, sisterhood, and dignity. We shared stories, laughter, and an unforgettable home-cooked meal, followed by chai that seemed to taste of warmth and resilience.
Following this moving experience, we joined the Intrepid Delhi Food Walk, sampling local delicacies like jalebi, samosas, parathas and chai in bustling markets like Chandni Chowk. Batool’s storytelling and the energy of Old Delhi made this walk a true highlight.
Agra: Stories of Strength and Grandeur
Our journey continued to Agra, home of the world-famous Taj Mahal. But before we stepped into Mughal splendour, we visited a very different kind of landmark: Sheroes Hangout. This is a café run by female acid attack survivors, and it is both humbling and empowering. Over lunch, we learned about their stories, the stigma they’ve overcome, and how Sheroes is giving them a livelihood, community, and purpose. The food was excellent, but the stories shared were what truly fed the soul.
That afternoon we toured the Taj Mahal, which lived up to every expectation and then some. Seeing it in person – the symmetry, the story, the sheer beauty – is something no photo can replicate. Later that evening, we explored the Old Town of Agra, where the narrow lanes and street-side life gave us a glimpse of everyday life beyond the monuments.
Jaipur: Palaces, Perspectives, and a Hot Air Balloon
From Agra, we drove to the colourful city of Jaipur. Our visit began with a trip to the majestic Amber Fort, with its imposing ramparts and intricate mirror work. Then came one of the most magical moments of the trip: a sunset hot air balloon ride. Drifting above villages, palaces, and hills as the sky turned gold was something I’ll never forget.
Back on the ground, we explored Jaipur’s Old City – famously known as the Pink City. Highlights included the City Palace, the Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds), and browsing local bazaars for textiles and jewellery. That evening, we enjoyed a private Bollywood dance lesson (so much fun!) followed by a rooftop dinner overlooking the city’s twinkling lights.
Returning to Delhi
Our final day saw us return to Delhi, where we flew home via Virgin Atlantic Upper Class. After a whirlwind week of emotion, learning, and discovery, it was the perfect way to end the journey – with great service, warm hospitality, and of course, a glass of bubbles to toast an unforgettable trip.
