05/12/2023
Dispatch #9 - Azerbaijan to Turkey
We faced the challenge of covering 2200km in the next 14 days to rendezvous with our girlfriends. Testing our physical fitness and mental discipline more than ever on this journey.
For context, we would cover more distance, ride more hours, consume less food and rest less than a rider doing the Tour de France. With the added weight of our bikes and equipment we also weighed twice as much as them - not easy going.
Leaving Baku proved difficult for two reasons. First, Baku held a special place in my heart. Second, during our time in Baku, I learned that my Oupa, battling stage four cancer for the past three years, was reaching the final post.
Although being away from family hadn't been an issue on this trip so far, on Friday, October 20th, while sitting at a roadside stop, I received the unfortunate news of my Oupa's passing. Part of me wished I was back home.
While riding there is a lot of time to think but not a lot of time to act. The following days through Azerbaijan, where we spent seven hours a day on the road, provided an opportunity for reflection, grieving, and celebrating the life of my Oupa.
Apart from Rory's health challengers with Covid, our traverse across Azerbaijan was relatively uneventful. On the penultimate night, we had an encounter with the notoriously corrupt Azerbaijani police. They stopped us, insisting on an £80 payment each for riding a bike at night.
We informed them that we would involve the British Embassy to assist with translation, leading to their backtracking. Resulting in an offer for accommodation, water, and even a meal. Crisis averted.
In Georgia, we fell into a rhythm. Covering 500 km of spectacular plains, vineyards, and mountain passes in three days. We also had our first sense of a more European culture while briefly stopping in Tbilisi.
Departing Tbilisi, we battled fierce headwinds until reaching the newly constructed Rikoti Pass. A recent beneficiary of the Belt and Road initiative. The pass, not yet open to the public, was open to bikes and we enjoyed 50km of uninterrupted bliss. Both of us agreed that it was one of the best roads we had encountered so far. Carving through mountains with a gradual decline, passing waterfalls, lush forests, and riding through low clouds. The pass connected to the main highway leading us straight to the Black Sea, where, after a day of riding, we finally reached the coast. This provided an opportunity for our first sea swim in three months, something we had been missing.
Having high expectations for Turkey, we crossed the border and immediately joined the D010, which hugged the dramatic coastline.
To our left, we enjoyed views of green forests, towering mountains, and hillside settlements, while the right offered clear sea views. The combination of scenic views and Turkish hospitality made these days enjoyable.
On one memorable evening, we spent time with an Imam and his family, leading to us staying in his mosque. This was followed by a night of drinking Raki and eating cheese with a retired tanker ship captain, "The Cap," and his boss, whom we named "Big Boss."
Progress along the Black Sea was smooth. Before we knew it, we took a turn inland. We now headed for the mountains. This brought its own set of challenges. Elevation gain and undulating peaks tested our endurance.
We finished days exhausted, an accumulated physical toll. Days away from Istanbul, my wheel buckled. A crack I had been monitoring for the past two weeks had propagated down the rim, causing spokes to pull out. The wheels failure was inevitable, but its timing was not. The mechanical issue compounded the physical issues. Because I had to limit time out of the saddle, I ended up with severe inflammation in my hips and quads which later require hospital visits and pauses to travel.
Our arrival in Istanbul was chaotic.
What was planned as a cruise turned into a crusade. The city’s first winter day of the year navigating rush-hour traffic. After 168 km of riding, we made it without incident. We left our bikes at the renowned Filispit bike shop for much-needed care. We then sort out a local bar and enjoyed a celebratory beer.
The Silk Roadies had officially traversed Asia. Covering almost all of the 12,000 km journey by bicycle in a 79 days. Ahead Europe awaits. Days shorter, nights colder, and the wind stronger. In the coming weeks Rory will share our experiences entering Europe. Thank you for your continued interest and support.
Johannes
