02/08/2026
Al Hoceima National Park in the north of Morocco, an off-the-beaten-track land rich in natural and cultural heritage that's little known outside of Morocco and Spain, is gearing up to welcome international ecotourists.
I stayed at Thaddart Tamakrant guesthouse in Adouz – a traditional Riffian Berber village on a high limestone vantage point about 600 metres above sea level in the Bokkoya massif, about 12km from Rouadi. The rooms were simple and unfussy, just like the food that featured classic Rif dishes, such as grilled chicken and fish stew seasoned with saffron and peppers. At breakfast, we were served bread made by a woman from the village made on an open fire just outside the guesthouse, tortilla, poached eggs, pancakes, honey, jam, and a sweet nutty sauce made from roasted almonds and argan oil. All washed down with strong coffee or the readily available mint tea.
Nights at the guesthouse were filled with music – on one night we danced on the street outside to the wonderful rhythms of hand-made drums and traditional reed oboes played by a group of men dressed in burgundy robes; another night, a local band came to the guesthouse and sang melodic, soulful Berber songs into the night.
We had lunch one day at the Jbel Bourfiee guesthouse in the village of Taounil within the Rouadi commune that sits in an exquisite setting high up with stellar views over a dry river valley and the rugged terrain of the Rif mountains. We feasted on grilled sardines, anchovies, lentils, fresh salad and a dish called Bissara, a traditional Moroccan dish made mainly from dried fava beans drizzled with olive oil and ground cumin. It was a sumptuous lunch in a superb setting; some of our group were tempted to stay here for the night and enjoy more of the wonderful hospitality and the night skies from this high vantage point far from the lights of any city.
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All photos: Richard Hammond/MEET
