08/07/2025
Report on a visit to Invernaver SSSI, 7 July 2025.
A visit to one of the most special of north coast wildlife habitats - which also has an intriguing human history - with thanks to inspiration from Helga and Dennis as they continued their passion of immersing themselves in the wildlife and plants of the many special places up here in the far north.
Starting in the tiny hamlet of Invernaver, we walked onto the spectacular reserve full of positivity, knowing that many special, and rare, plants were going to be found. Almost immediately, we were walking across mudflats dotted by the beautiful pink blooms of Sea Milkwort and the fruit-bearing spikelets of the Curved Sedge - a National rarity. Our botanising was interrupted by the alarm calls of a Ringed Plover and we quickly saw why - a tiny chick was hiding among the pebbles on the adjacent beach. Moving quickly on, a small pool in a depression in the flats had three 3-spines Sticklebacks desperate for cover. The scarlet belly on the males was very attractive!
The extreme exposure levels in the far north mean that a number of ‘Arctic-Alpine’ plants more usually found on mountaintops are growing just above sea level here, including the spectacular Yellow Mountain Saxifrage. Many mountain plants reproduce asexually, and this was no better illustrated than by the Alpine Bistort, its ‘inflorescence’ adorned with bulbils which will grow into plantlets. Botanising was interrupted by a flurry of butterflies, that included Dark Green Fritillary, Common Blue and Small Heath, plus a caterpillar of the Fox Moth. A wonderful large specimen of the Lurid Bolete mushroom was another exciting, but not at all unexpected, find.
Then we started the ascent of Druim Chuibhe. Numerous Dark Red Helleborines, Marsh Fragrant Orchids and Frog Orchids later, we were delighted to find another rarity in the form of Hoary Whitlowgrass (Draba incana), an arctic species usually found at altitude. Plant of the day for me. After that, plants again gave way to insects, as Dennis’ eagle eyes spotted a female Mottled Grasshopper. And then another. And then gentians, starting to bloom in numbers I’d not seen here before. Close inspection showed the two opposite pairs of sepals were of equal size, making them (or at least the ones we looked closely at) Autumn Gentian (flowering from July).
One of our aims on this walk was to check on a cage that I’d put over a most splendid specimen of Dark Red Helleborine that I’d discovered in 2023. It was exceptional in that it had produced 10 flowering stems (most seem to produce one or two). Sadly, before the flower buds had all opened (and before I could get photos), it was eaten by deer or sheep. So, early last year, just as the leaves had started to appear, I constructed a heavy duty cage and put it over the plant, held down with large rocks. I revisited a few times, but didn’t actually get to see it when it would have been at its peak. So, yesterday marked more that one year since I’d last been there and I was very apprehensive. Surely the cage had been moved by something or someone and the plant had already been destroyed. As I tentatively peered over the brow of the hill, I was overcome with relief as I saw the structure still in place and a plant blooming inside it. We rushed over to it, removed the cage and counted the flowering stems… THIRTEEN! This must be some kind of record. We took some photos and replaced the cage.
Just moments after us leaving the spectacular orchid, an adult Sea Eagle circled overhead. We hadn’t seen many birds at this point, other than a flock of Siskins on the rocky hillside (they were feeding on plant seeds), a family of Hooded Crows, and a few Meadow Pipits. Plus the Ringer Plover! WE admired a large patch of Melancholy Thistle before descending off Druim Chuibhe, back down to the raised beach and the prehistoric settlement. There were lifted rocks in search of a special spider, the Sand Bear. We found none, but did find life beneath virtually every rock we turned over (and turned back again): various spiders, ants, centipedes and wood lice. We were yet to find another arctic rarity in the form of Purple Oxytropis, but finally did so. Sadly this had finished flowering, but the seed pods were almost as spectacular!
Completing our circuit via a small loch, where we delighted in seeing Water Lobelia in bloom, a look at the time made us ask where the afternoon had gone! Almost 6 hours had flashed by and we had hardly scratched the surface of this most amazing place. I’ll be heading back next week with macro camera in hand. To Helga and Dennis, I say thank you for your super company, Viel Erfolg with further adventures in the Scottish wilderness. And thank you for all of these wonderful photos!
