10/08/2026
It was fantastic to open this morning’s Metro and find a journey we helped set up leading the travel section, three pages of Uganda at its wildest.
So, what is it actually like to meet a wild chimpanzee?
James Draven found out the hard way, slipping in the mud at the feet of Mweya, the alpha male of Kyambura Gorge, and apologising on instinct: “Sorry! Accident!” Chimps, he points out, are “much stronger than the average person”, “easily capable of shifting a piano” and “much, much bigger than you imagine”.
The setting is every bit as remarkable as the residents. Kyambura is “a subterranean forest carved deep into the grasslands” of Queen Elizabeth National Park, appearing “almost as if by magic” some 100 metres below the savannah. Down there live 32 chimpanzees, among them Kaaka, a grandmother of 54, and after two hours of trekking and an hour in their company, his verdict is the one every guest comes home with: “There’s something so human about chimps that I speak to them as if they know what I’m saying.” Then, “too soon, our time with them is over”.
James stayed on the edge of the gorge at Honey Bear Bush Camp with our friends at WildPlaces Africa, where elephants wander through camp, the tents are generous and evenings end by the fire beneath the fever tree.
And the chimps are only the start of what this park offers. Game drives across the savannah, boat safaris on the Kazinga Channel among some of the biggest concentrations of hippos in Africa, the famous tree climbing lions of the Ishasha sector, sundowners on the rims of volcanic crater lakes and more than 600 species of birds.
Uganda has long played second fiddle to Africa’s better known safari countries, and we have never quite understood why. It is hard to name another park that packs in this much wildlife, landscape and variety, or better hosts to show you than WildPlaces Africa.
Words and photographs by James Draven for Metro, pages 15 to 17 today. The three night trip in his fact box is one of ours, and there is much more on Uganda at hideandseek.travel.