04/04/2026
A Spring Getaway to the North-Western Peloponnese and Beyond -
On a sunny spring weekend at the end of February, we set off to explore the north-western part of the Peloponnese and a little further afield.
Our first stop was a café in Isthmia, right on the banks of the Corinth Canal at its eastern end, just before it flows into the sea. This was a section of the canal we hadn’t seen before, and it was lovely to watch the familiar bridges from a slightly different perspective.
We continued on for a nostalgic visit to the Odontotos Rack Railway station in Diakopto.
The train runs along a stunning scenic route through the Vouraikos Gorge up to the beautiful town of Kalavryta.
On our previous visit, the train wasn't running due to a storm that had dropped rocks onto the tracks. Today, a day of national protest in Greece, it was out of service once again.
We settled for a coffee and a pastry near the station instead.
We drove on to the west, crossing the magnificent Rio-Antirrio cable-stayed bridge (€15.90 toll to cross) and followed the edge of the Gulf of Corinth eastward to the beautiful Nafpaktos, where we spent our first night.
I had heard quite a bit about Nafpaktos, mostly from travellers stopping over on their way to Northern Greece, but I discovered it is so much more than just a pit stop!
The town is a blend of medieval history and a vibrant, modern atmosphere. At its heart lies the Venetian Harbour, with its walls and turrets looking exactly like a postcard.
The harbour area is lined with restaurants, tavernas, cafés, charming little shops, and ice cream parlours.
Not far from the harbour is the old residential quarter and the Botsaris Tower, a 15th-century building that served as a residence for Venetian and Ottoman governors.
Today, it houses a museum dedicated to the Battle of Lepanto (Lepanto is the former name of Nafpaktos). The battle took place on 7 October 1571 and is considered one of the most significant naval battles in history, where a Christian coalition (Venice, Spain, and the Vatican) fought the Ottoman Empire. With 400 ships and 140,000 soldiers involved, the Christians won a decisive victory, preventing the Ottoman Empire from expanding into the Western Mediterranean.
The next morning, we drove up to the Castle of Nafpaktos.
It is a well-maintained site perched on a hill above the town, offering endless views. Passing through pine trees and gorgeous viewpoints.
The castle features an interesting museum covering the history of the site and the region.
From there, we headed west to the Missolonghi Lagoon, considered one of the most important ecosystems in the Mediterranean.
It’s an area of shallow seawater, with fishermen’s houses built on stilts over the water and an abundance of migratory birds (we saw plenty of flamingos).
There is a promenade alongside the road where you drive between sections of the sea that look almost like marshes. For us, the place was an incredible discovery.
From Missolonghi, we returned to the Rio-Antirrio crossing. This time we took the ferry (half the price, a 10-minute sail, and very pleasant). We disembarked and drove to Patras, Greece's third-largest city.
The city is considered the "Gateway to the West," with a massive port connecting Greece to Europe. Patras is a student city, so alongside its ancient history, there is a lively, modern vibe.
The city is divided into two parts: Kato Poli (Lower Town), which is the western, modern side with squares and pedestrian streets, and Ano Poli (Upper Town), the ancient and historic district.
In the Lower Town, I recommend visiting:
• Georgiou I Square - featuring fountains and bronze lion statues.
• Apollo Theatre - located right by the square.
• Riga Fereou - a long, bustling pedestrian street.
• Agiou Nikolaou - a pedestrian street that crosses the city from the port to the Upper Town. At its top end, there are 192 steps leading to the Upper Town, which serve as a popular meeting spot for young people.
• Olga Square - also known as "National Unity Square," a green lung in the city centre.
In the Upper Town, I recommend visiting:
• St. Andrew’s Church - a grand and impressive church built in the Byzantine style.
• Patras Castle - a 6th-century fortress located at the city's highest point, overlooking the port and the Gulf of Patras.
• Roman Odeon - an ancient amphitheatre in the heart of the Old Town, which has been restored and is used for open-air performances and concerts.
From Patras, we drove back for a return visit to the charming ski town of Kalavryta. The road leading there is breathtaking. After a delicious coffee in the centre (and a slightly less-than-graceful fall of mine between the tables 🤭) we headed down the road towards Diakopto.
The road leads you right alongside the rack railway tracks.
With every bend in the road, more beautiful views are revealed: the gulf, the snow-capped mountains of Central Greece, Arachova on the other side of the water, enchanting houses by the roadside, and a great deal of greenery.
We continued to Isthmia for a meal at a fish restaurant overlooking the gulf with lovely views.
We returned home captivated and already looking forward to our next trip.
