Ubud is the very heart of Bali - both geographically and metaphorically – Bali’s cultural capital where art and craft intermingle and all manner of eccentrics, autocrats, hippies, bohemians, altruists, gourmets, Bali royalty, and of course, artists form an intriguing amalgamation that feels far less divorced from local culture than in resort enclaves elsewhere in Bali. The once small village of Ub
ud now spreads itself across an undulating landscape of verdant valleys, ridges, rice paddies and rolling hills, all interspersed by countless peaceful and picturesque neighborhood streets and hamlets where one can still feel the essence of village life from days of yore. It is where foot easily accesses distinctive boutiques and restaurants, markets stalls, ornate temples and palaces where accomplished dancers and gamelan orchestras perform each evening. Head west in the direction of Campuhan and you approach one of Ubud's prettiest parts and also its place of its origin. According to ancient Lontar manuscripts, when the mighty Hindu Empire of Majapahit succumbed to Islam at the turn of the 16thcentury, 2000 members of its cultural elite – artisans, scholars, priests, and royalty – fled eastward to Bali. A fertile valley at the confluence of two rivers, campuhan in Balinese, was deemed the perfect spot for a settlement and Ubud’s course was set. Centuries later there was another influx, this time of European bohemians - artists like Rudolf Bonnet and Walter Spies - who proved instrumental in effecting a shift away from art anchored to ritual and religion, towards more secular expressions. You don't have to dig deep to uncover Ubud's artistic legacy - there seem to be as many galleries as there are homes – from tiny hole-in-the-walls, to stately museums. South of central Ubud lies the enchanting villages of Nyuhkuning and Pengosekan, where Bali’s first village –level artistic cooperative was established in 1969 and where some of Ubuds’ best restaurants are located. To the west of central Ubud are the Sayan and Ayung River valleys where one can marvel at the majestic lush jungle views that seem to stretch on forever. To the East are the charming villages of Peliatan, with it’s long performing arts tradition, and Petulu, where every afternoon droves of white herons and egrets come to nest in the trees. Head due northeast through the town of Andong via the “handicrafts highway,” where innumerable artisan shops line the streets, and you will reach the famous emerald green Ceking rice terraces that date back 2000 years. A mere ten-minute drive from this spectacular site is the mountain village of Tegallalang where Pandawas Villas is located. From this elevated vantage point, one can truly appreciate the sublime views that surround the resort, views that are available 365 days of the year just by standing on the pool deck.
