17/10/2026
In the north of County Clare, the land rises from the sea as a great pavement of grey limestone, and in its cracks grow flowers that have no business living side by side. The place is the Burren, and its name comes from the Irish word boireann, which means a rocky place.
In late spring and early summer the stone fills with colour. Alpine flowers, Arctic flowers and Mediterranean plants grow within a few feet of each other, among them the spring gentian, a deep blue bloom that seems almost unreal against the grey. Botanists have long puzzled over how this meeting of climates came about, and the limestone itself, which stores warmth and drains water, is part of the answer.
The Burren is also a landscape of people. Its tombs, forts and field walls span thousands of years, and farmers there still winter their cattle on the hills, as their ancestors did. It is one of the most unusual places in Ireland, and one of the most moving.