The Cities of Dehli

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166 years ago, late on this date, September the 17th, 1857, Bahādur Shāh II, 'Zafar', left (or fled) the Qila-i Mubārak/...
17/09/2023

166 years ago, late on this date, September the 17th, 1857, Bahādur Shāh II, 'Zafar', left (or fled) the Qila-i Mubārak/Laal Qila for the final time as its (at least titular) owner and master, while the 'Siege of Delhi' concluded its final, gory chapters and the Company Bahadur's regiments and commanders began exacting a terrible revenge; the last Indo-Timurid (again, at least symbolic) sovereign exited the premises of the imperial complex which was the crowning zenith of their 17th century apogee, and Shāh Jahān's indulgent, aesthetic vision hewn in sandstone and marble, jewel and flower - fitting indeed for the Sāhib-i Qirān-i Sānī. Ironically, the helpless octogenarian and his companions headed to Humāyūn's maqbara further south, where Mughal hegemony had been seared into the spiritual and emotional geography of 16th century Dehlī, this time due to the architectural intervention of Akbar. A story - the greatest story of'em all, all-consuming and unforgiving though it often was - had truly, and finally, come to its circular end. This morning, at least for a long while, the weather recounted its own version of the final 'hijr' of no return, even if the thronging crowds were merrily oblivious to our sad, old elegies..

What do King Ashoka and Sultan Firoz Shah Tughlaq have in common? The 5th city of Dehli!Join us this Sunday 27Nov at 4pm...
25/11/2022

What do King Ashoka and Sultan Firoz Shah Tughlaq have in common? The 5th city of Dehli!
Join us this Sunday 27Nov at 4pm to know how!
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The fortress-citadel of Kotla Firoz Shah is one of those less-privileged, less-visited sites of immense historical value in Dehli that were overshadowed by neighbouring heavyweights - in this case, the Red Fort, Raj Ghat or even the Firoz Shah Kotla Stadium. But, Akash and Shaleen eagerly want you to meet and embrace this 5th city of Dehli.

One of the curious episodes we shall uncover together is the unexpected connection between a Mauryan Emperor fabled in text, currency and cinema and a Tughlaq Sultan usually left as an afterthought following more colourful predecessors - in short, Ashoka and Firoz Shah Tughlaq.

You could say that while one unified much of the Subcontinent under a single political power 2,300 years ago, the other envisaged Dehli as a unified urban conglomeration for the first time, almost 700 years ago. Perhaps fate fashioned this unlikely historical link between them, but Firoz Shah Tughlaq was fascinated by the Ashokan pillars at Topra and Meerut in the way all ambitious rulers are impressed by the great - and in this case, mysterious - undertaking of past monarchs.

Having always displayed a keen sense of history and its unrivaled powers of symbolism and legitimacy, Firoz Shah unsurprisingly ordered these monuments of antiquity removed from their original positions and brought to his Dehli. Was this merely a 'trophy' or something more for the Tughlaq Sultan ? How was this architectural marvel moved such a great distance and re-erected, so long before 'modern' technology ? What were the challenges of transport at that time ?

For this and MUCH more, join us at Firozabad/Kotla Firoz Shah this Sunday, 27th November, at 4:00pm for 'To Toss Between War and Peace'.

Ticket link in the bio !
20% discount for college students !
40% discount for school students !
Contact us for discount codes !

Image 1: By Nath, R. (Ram), 1933
Image 2: Illustration from the 'Sirat-i Firoz Shahi', late-14th century CE

Heartfelt responses carry us from week to week!Shwetha Rao was one of our first  attendees and Dhriti is what we call a ...
23/11/2022

Heartfelt responses carry us from week to week!
Shwetha Rao was one of our first attendees and Dhriti is what we call a double attendee!

Join us for walk number 4 this Sunday - details below !

Learn about Firoz Shah Tughlaq's much before time heritage conservation and preservation acumen, why the cricket stadium is linked to this palace, and how the Mauryan King Ashoka has a presence in the city and fort, built by Firoz Shah Tughlaq.

27th Nov, A Firozabad Evening Sunday, 4pm-6.30pm

Book tickets ~ Ticket link in bio!
Discounts for school and college students applicable - DM us for a discount code!

"TO TOSS BETWEEN WAR AND PEACE" WALKA FIROZABAD EVENINGWhat could a resilient pillar from Ashoka's age, a mosque that pl...
22/11/2022

"TO TOSS BETWEEN WAR AND PEACE" WALK
A FIROZABAD EVENING
What could a resilient pillar from Ashoka's age, a mosque that pleased a ruthless warlord, and a large, round step-well have in common? Join us this Sunday late afternoon to find out!
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In a historical geography strewn with one ambitious city after another, who brought 'Dehli' together as a whole for the first time, six full centuries before modern, post-independence Delhi ? Firoz Shah Tughlaq.

We may've always studied it that way, but who conceived of the 'Delhi Sultanate' as a unified entity ? Firoz Shah Tughlaq.

Architectural conservation may be a common-enough (and often debated) thing today, but who went about repairing and restoring every possible monument in his capital, way back in the late-14th century ? Firoz Shah Tughlaq.

His own offering, the fortress-city of Firozabad/Kotla Firoz Shah, may not always be high-up on the fantasy list of serious enthusiasts or casual tourists, but we sincerely hope to change that. Far beyond its current, reverential reputation as the abode of Djinns and mystical power, the walls of Firozabad harbour within them everything from an Ashokan pillar that impressed a Sultan, to a Masjid that even left Timur speechless, and an intriguing step-well that harks back to the mostly sidelined narratives of water's critical centrality to Sultanate life.

For all this, the divergent opinions on Firoz Shah's own rule, the 'contested' present of the site and much more, we cannot wait to have you with us for 'To Toss Between War and Peace - a Firozabad evening', this coming Sunday, the 27th of November !

Ticket link in our bio
Discounts applicable for college and school students, DM us for the code.

On the chilly morning of 19th  November, in the meandering alleys of today's Mehrauli, steeped in history and faith, we ...
22/11/2022

On the chilly morning of 19th November, in the meandering alleys of today's Mehrauli, steeped in history and faith, we traversed a journey spanning nine eventful centuries and the 'cities of Dehli' it provided the stage for. From the imposing 'origin story' of Anangpal Tomar's Lal Kot and the enduring pull of the Yogmaya Mandir, our trail brought us to the bloody deaths of Atgah Khan and Adham Khan - Mughal nobles whose divergent relations with Akbar were forever enshrined in architectural memory.

From sinners to saints we went, as our progress into Mehrauli Village encountered the multiple belief systems of Hinduism, Christianity, Sikhism and Islam through their sites of worship and their communities' often-bittersweet relationship with the neighbourhood and the city.

Nowhere was this more evident than at Shaikh Qutb al-Din Bakhtiyar Kaki's revered, medieval Dargah. In our attempt to map the love affair of Sufi saints and schools with Dehli, we also ventured into the deep waters of boundary-less geographies and histories in the pre-modern world and their rigid, black-and-white segregation closer to our times.

Solace lay in the spirit of Gandhi and Nehru who chose the Dargah and its traditions to appeal for peace, harmony and brotherhood in the troubling days of 1947-48 when 'built' lives were just as targeted as human ones.

The greatest legacy of their attempt was the renewal of the late-Mughal era 'Phoolwalon Ki Sair', which honours both the shrines of Yogmaya and Bakhtiyar Kaki. Zafar Mahal and Bahadur Shah's 'empty' grave may've reduced us to melancholy, but the continued festivities of the Sair give us cause to have 'hope' - the most reassuring emotion of all.

Not a bad way to kick-off World Heritage Week, eh ?
Stay tuned for our next public walk on Sunday morning. Any guesses as to which city of Dehli will we explore next?

Photograph credits:

In our very first, inaugural collaboration with two incredibly exciting, female-run brands in the space of news and trav...
21/11/2022

In our very first, inaugural collaboration with two incredibly exciting, female-run brands in the space of news and travel (our passions as well, incidentally) - we are delighted to present to you, 'The Resilient Pheonix - A ghazal of sandstone and marble' Walk at the Laal Qila/Qila-i Mubarak/Red Fort on Saturday, the 26th of November, Saturday.

Our partners are 'Splainer' , a daily digital magazine that makes it effortless and fun to be well-informed, and 'Urbanaut', a travel discovery app for locally curated, immersive experiences !

Our title deeply resonates with the nature of the venue's history - the fort, a poetic composition in stone and marble, has withstood every conceivable test of time and tide and continues to stand resolutely, from Shah Jahan's ambitious dream of the mid-17th century down to Nehru, the Tricolour and the heady days of August, 1947.

At this walk, the charms of an early-winter evening and the magic of Mughal architectural delicacy brilliantly lit-up will form the backdrop to an in-depth tour of the new and exceptional Dalmia Museum (a yet-to-be-discovered gem in its state of the art exhibition design and historical storytelling) and a recounting of the rousing, moving story of this massive undertaking and those who lived in it, followed by delectable snacks at Gumbad Cafe overlooking the ever-imposing Jama Masjid sillouette.

In short, an evening we'd hate for you to miss. Please find the ticket link in our bio and embrace this journey for your coming Saturday !

Ticket link in our bio/DM us !
Only 6 spots left.
26th November.
Saturday.
Tour time : 4.30pm - 7pm.

HURRY !

Feedback, motivation and passion go a long way in helping us do what we do ! Vinayak was an attendee from our first walk...
19/11/2022

Feedback, motivation and passion go a long way in helping us do what we do ! Vinayak was an attendee from our first walk ~ who passionately engaged with our walk!

Join us for walk number 3 tmrw - details below !

20th Nov, A Qutb Night, Sunday, 6pm-8pm

Book tickets soon!
Ticket link in bio!
Discounts for school and college students applicable - DM us for the discount code!

Constructive feedback, motivation and passion go a long way in helping us do what we do ! Zaira was one of our first pay...
17/11/2022

Constructive feedback, motivation and passion go a long way in helping us do what we do ! Zaira was one of our first payees and attendees, and what a joy it was to learn, in her own words, about how she felt in our inaugural walk !

Join us for walk number 2 & 3 this weekend - details below !

19th Nov, A Mehrauli Morning, Saturday, 8am-10am

20th Nov, A Qutb Night, Sunday, 6pm-8pm

Book tickets soon!
Ticket link in bio!
Discounts for school and college students applicable

The very essence of Dehli's tumultuous story revolves around the Qutb; in its enduring beauty and the power of its axis-...
16/11/2022

The very essence of Dehli's tumultuous story revolves around the Qutb; in its enduring beauty and the power of its axis-like appearance, the Minar may well have been a mythical object from an 'Avengers' storyline. Truth, thankfully, is stranger than fiction, and on a cold evening inside the Qutb complex, many truths engulf you in their remarkable narratives - a Sultan who felt threatened by a Shaikh, the only Queen to rule over the city who was chosen by her prescient father, a pre-modern conservator and a British officer's regrettable 'folly'.

Their reigns may sometimes have been short, but their memories remain, eagerly mobilized just as much by Bollywood as by renowned scholars.

This Sunday, we hope to see you at this oft-revered, oft-misunderstood site where the 'city', the 'citadel' and the 'congregation' have (un)comfortably shared space for eight centuries.

This Sunday
20th Nov 6pm-8pm
JOIN US
Book fast!

Ticket link in the bio | 15 Walk participants only!

To know that you are supported by near and dear ones is always heartening. But, when that trust and encouragement surges...
15/11/2022

To know that you are supported by near and dear ones is always heartening. But, when that trust and encouragement surges forth from people beyond such intimate circles and from across the board, the sense of humble gratification is overwhelming. To those mentors, colleagues and acquaintances, or those with a genuine interest in history, or those simply looking for a well-spent weekend evening, or those that heard us on a podcast, or those who received a recommendation from a friend who couldn't attend, and to the others who just had faith in our history-and-heritage-obsessed story and decided to turn up - tah-e dil se shukriya/thank you from the bottom of our hearts for throwing your weight behind us and hopefully getting your time's (and money's) worth for almost three hours on a Sunday evening !

To keep this 'Dehlavi' journey going, we invite you again with great anticipation. Find our walk calendar for this weekend, ready for you ! See you at Mehrauli on 19th morning or/and Qutub Minar Complex on 20th evening!

All our photos and videos for this walk by the incredible
- look up his fantastic work!

Amidst the often-bustling, always-snaking lanes of the Mehrauli Village, lie buried saints and sinners, puppets and drea...
15/11/2022

Amidst the often-bustling, always-snaking lanes of the Mehrauli Village, lie buried saints and sinners, puppets and dreamers. Beyond mere individuals, Mehrauli set the stage for entire states to reach dizzying heights and die slow deaths. From Rajput beginnings in the 11th century to the Mughal swansong of the 19th, how and why was this corner of Dehli privileged so ? How many 'Dehli's can one encounter in the depths of this neighbourhood ? And, what tale can an empty grave, Urdu shayari and a timeless Dargah weave about the India of our past, and the India of our future ?

Come find out in our second walk - "The Firsts and the Lasts of It - A Mehrauli Morning", this Saturday, 19th November, from 8 am to10 am.

Ticket link is in our bio - Book Fast! 15 participants only
Image depicted - Akash and Shaleen stood on the upper floors of the Zafar Mahal and from there, is visible the domes of the Moti Masjid.

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Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg
Delhi
110002

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