29/04/2017
In the last hours before my departure from Costa Rica I walked down to the Pre-Columbian Gold Museum. Located in a vast concrete basement, it contains a collection of ancient objects created by the indigenous people of modern day Costa Rica and preserved in a burial ground until the 20th century. As I gazed upon dozens of gold and copper miniatures, I saw many of the animals I had spent the week enjoying in the rainforest - humming birds, butterflies, eagles, toucans, bats, monkeys, crocodiles, armadillos, turtles, and countless frogs. Before European conquest, people used gold to represent nature and used these images as amulets and ceremonial devices for healing and spiritual and bodily transformation. After exterminating most of the native population, Europeans put gold to use as a different kind of spiritual tool - to finance religious wars, to erect enormous structures to glorify Jesus and the monarchy. Today, the descendants and heirs of European conquerors, among which we can count any resident of Europe and North America, are experiencing economic success but also a severe collective spiritual crisis. When the figure of a dying man became the leading conduit to God, where did we hope to arrive? When we turned away from nature as our God and proceeded to conquer it, what did we hope to achieve but our own extermination?
I looked at the gold animals for a long time. Tears flooded my eyes. I imagined that meeting, that moment when gold frogs were taken away from the hands that made them and melted down into money. I wondered if the ancient people knew the price we would pay for choosing this path.