15/04/2026
charging yesterday in Chile. 🇨🇱
"It became a special one for me, so I wanted to share a bit of the story and what was going through my mind. I caught this wave after being in the water for 5 hours. Before that I had caught two, but a long time earlier. Yesterday’s conditions were a bit messy, but there were some really good waves and a few big ones. After 5 hours, there were only four of us left in the water, and my back and arms couldn’t paddle anymore. The current kept getting stronger with the low tide, but I didn’t give up—even though that’s all I wanted to do!!! Before this, I tried to paddle for one and felt my arms were completely done and my legs starting to cramp. With all these signals, thinking logically, I told myself I should get out—which is what I always do, with a lot of respect for the ocean. But this time something in me kept fighting.
Then this set came in. I went for the second wave. On the drop, my board disconnected from the wave (I thought it was the end for me), but we reconnected well. When I reached the bottom, I looked up and saw a massive wall about to swallow me. I felt fear, but I was so happy!
Underwater it was really heavy, and I pulled my inflation vest because, like I said, my body was done—but my mind wasn’t. And I made it 🙏🏽 After that one, another wave landed on my head, and Nono came to rescue me, and we headed back out.
I felt proud of the resilience I had and for achieving my goal—that’s why I wanted to leave it recorded here. Once again, I’m amazed by the power of the mind 🧠
With my new 10’2” gun from , which never fails.
🎥
