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Deep South Tokushima, Japan, Kaifu District (2026)

11/06/2025

A visit to this small island feels like a real journey back to the Showa era. Just a 15-minute ferry ride from Mugi town brought us to an island where time seems to have stood still.

The island itself is only a little over 3 kilometers. There is a small fishing village with a current population of about 50 people, a lighthouse on a hill, and a pond where a type of prehistoric plant grows. There are no cars here, and locals use handcarts called neko-guruma to carry heavy items. The traditional architecture deserves special attention - many houses have folding shutters on the outside that open up to form bench-like seats.

This style is called mise-zukuri, and many houses on Tebajima are built this way. Because this historic appearance has been preserved, Tebajima has been designated by the government as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings.

I had visited the island before, but this time the trip was much more interesting and rich - we were accompanied by two local volunteer guides. We spent several hours together walking around the island and learning the history and purpose of all the key buildings.

Thanks to the vivid storytelling of our incredible guides, we could truly imagine life on the island in post-war Japan. Charming details - how the local Buddhist temple served as one of their kindergartens, stories of gathering together to watch movies on an antediluvian outdoor projector, the fact that there used to be only one phone on the whole island - and countless other little things that really immersed me in the island’s history and brought the scenes in my mind to life.

I truly fell in love with Tebajima and highly recommend visiting with a guide from the local volunteer association. They speak a little English, but if you’re not yet confident in Japanese, I’d definitely suggest going with someone who knows the language. Keep in mind that such a tour must be reserved in advance through the Mugi Volunteer Guide Association.

Note: A ferry makes six round trips a day, and the ride takes about fifteen minutes. There’s nowhere to eat on the island, so bring your own refreshments.

28/05/2025

Aioi Farmers Market, Naka Town, Tokushima Prefecture, Shikoku, Japan

If you’re exploring Naka Town and feel like finding something truly local - Aioi Farmers Market might be your next stop.

This small shop is run by the local community and sells what’s made and grown in the area - fresh produce, local tea, wooden crafts, and, of course, food! Things like maze gohan (seasoned rice mix), pickles, local super thick tofu and sweets - all made nearby, with a lot of heart.

It’s also a great place to pick up hangoroshi mochi - Naka Town’s signature sweet. You might even find something seasonal that you’ve never heard of before.

Located right along Route 195 and across from Momijigawa Onsen, this direct sales store for agricultural products is a good stop if you’re driving through or staying nearby.

Small, friendly, and local - just like so many good things in Naka.

Open every day except Thursdays.
From 10 am to 5:00 pm

Aioi Farmers Market
https://maps.app.goo.gl/CnBWhkHBgaKTZdRPA

19/05/2025

Hangoroshi mochi, Naka Town, Tokushima, Shikoku

Let us introduce you Naka Town signature sweet – Hangoroshi Mochi.
Rich, savory, chewy and extremely delicious mochi (mochi is often referred to as a rice cake).

The name hangoroshi is amusing on itself, as it can be literally translated as “half-killed”. Funny as it sounds, it actually refers to the cooking technique – the cooked rice is pounded only partially, not to the usual smooth pasty mochi, so that the texture of hangoroshi mochi is a little bit grainy. They are stuffed with anko (sweet red bean paste) and rolled in sweet kinako powder (roasted soybean flour). De-li-cious!

No event in Naka Town goes without Hangoroshi Mochi! They say that in the past, people from Naka Town served hangoroshi mochi when entertaining guests – and it is so nice to see the tradition remaining even on a bigger level.

You can buy hangoroshi mochi from farm stalls in Aioi area, as well as Michinoeki Roadstations and local supermarkets.
Apparently, hangoroshi mochi are so popular that they often sell out past noon!

Make sure to try them next time you’re in Naka area.

Aioi Farmers Market
https://maps.app.goo.gl/CnBWhkHBgaKTZdRPA

15/05/2025

Kaiyo Town, Tokushima, Shikoku Island, Japan

Exploring around Shishikui and ended up wandering into the Kakusaka area - no plan, just following the road and seeing where it goes. Found an old little park with the most adorable elephant, and a tiny shrine tucked into the hillside. Quiet, peaceful, and kind of magical in its own quiet way.

One of the things I love most about living in the countryside is how much there is to find just by walking or driving. You don’t need a destination. The pace is slower, and places feel like they hold memories.
It’s not always convenient out here, but moments like this make it feel like there’s more room to breathe. More space to feel connected - to the land, to the small things, to yourself.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/FVuCST9TSRys5r4M6

09/05/2025

Shikoku no Michi Nature Trail, Yuki to Tainohama Beach, MinamiTown, Tokushima Prefecture, Shikoku

A perfect beginner-friendly hike that starts from Yuki fishing port and takes you to the beautiful Tainohama Beach in less than 30 minutes.

This short walk has a lot: peaceful forest paths, fresh sea air, and dreamy coastal views. Yuki is a charming little spot, and the trail is so nice and quiet. Tainohama’s white sand beach (open for swimming from early July) is said to be one of the best in western Japan, known for its clear, shallow waters.

This section is part of the 16.3 km “White Sand and Sea Turtle” route. If you’re in the mood for a longer hike, check the Shikoku Nature Trail site for full route info and Google Maps tracks.

https://shikoku-nature-trail.com/en/archives/3171

02/05/2025

Jomanji Temple, Kaiyo Town, Tokushima Prefecture, Shikoku, Japan

The oldest Zen temple in Shikoku is surrounded by nature and offers a quiet, calming atmosphere. The gentle steps leading up to the main hall make for a relaxing walk, and the area around the temple is perfect for slowing down and finding some inner peace.

Jomanji Temple is said to be the oldest Zen temple in Shikoku. Its history is quite complex, and some parts of it remain unknown. Jomanji was originally built in 1291, but it almost ceased to exist for about 300 years, as it is said to have been burnt down during a war in 1575. But that wasn’t the end. In 1925, the first of the temple’s buildings was reconstructed. Slowly at first, but with time, Jomanji Temple has been brought back to life. Thanks to the efforts of the local community, the head priests, and the help of people from all over Japan, Jomanji now welcomes visitors from around the world. By the way, the head priest speaks perfect English and also Korean.

Visitors can take part in Zazen meditation sessions. There’s a beginner-friendly Zazen on Sundays from 1:30 PM to 2:30 PM, although it’s not held every week – so it’s best to check their page for updates. The temple also offers group and private Zazen sessions by reservation. There are also sutra copying meetings.

Whether you’re interested in Zen, want to try meditation, or simply enjoy visiting temples for their beauty and rich culture, Jomanji Temple is a beautiful and welcoming spot to visit.

For more information visit their website
https://www.jomanji.jp/

Location
https://maps.app.goo.gl/uTuPZ52kNjCnApu78

26/04/2025

Wisteria is now in bloom in Naka Town, cascading like lilac waterfalls in the breeze.

At the same time, the last yaezakura (those fluffy, late-blooming cherry blossoms) are dancing their way to the ground - a gentle farewell to sakura season. Their pink petals are everywhere, turning the ground into a soft spring carpet.

Spring is shifting softly, and every corner feels like a postcard. If you’re planning a visit, come soon - you can still catch both in one trip!

Naka Town, Tokushima Prefecture, Shikoku, Japan

23/04/2025

Aizome Hands-on Experience, Hi-Colors Handicraft, Kaiyo Town, Tokushima Prefecture

We spent the day in the mountains of Kaiyo Town, Tokushima, and stepped into the world of aizome – Japan’s iconic indigo dyeing tradition. What an experience!

Tokushima is the spiritual home of indigo in Japan, where this craft has been passed down for over 600 years. It’s not just a technique – it’s a lifestyle rooted in nature, patience, and deep respect for the land. The blues created here are known across the world for their richness, depth, and spirit.

At the heart of our journey was a visit to Hi-COLOR handworks, a small studio that does things differently. Their specialty? Shishikui Gion Dye (宍喰祇園染) – a stunning fusion of mud dyeing and natural indigo, born from underground spring mud and hand-grown indigo leaves. This technique isn’t just beautiful – it’s symbolic. Earth and water, mountain and sea, all coming together in one layered, natural dye. It’s a registered original method you won’t find anywhere else. What sets Hi-COLOR apart is their total commitment to chemical-free, sustainable craftsmanship. From sowing indigo seeds with the lunar calendar to making their own fermented compost, every step is done with intention and care.

The dye itself is made from fermented indigo leaves (sukumo), with oak ash lye and water from the Kaifu River. No shortcuts, no synthetic chemicals – just the power of nature and time.

We rolled up our sleeves and dyed the items we chose, layer by layer. It felt meditative. Magical. We watched the white cotton shirt shaping into something unique as if by some ancient magic.

If you’re ever in Kaiyo, don’t miss this. Shishikui Gion Dye is more than color – it’s a story, an ecosystem, a way of life.

https://hi-colorhandworks.comtakuya.12 and his lovely wife are the artisans running Hi-COLOR handworks and the guesthouse.

18/04/2025

Sakura blossoms season is officially over. The last pale pink petals are falling on the ground, but we will go on with our series of sakura posts for a bit longer. For your future convenience and out of the spirit to share.

Here they are – a few glimpses on Mugi Town during this gorgeous season. One step from the 55 road (the main arteria road that connects Tokushima City with Cape Muroto and Kochi Prefecture), only one step will lead you to a space full of long-necked egrets, transparent rivers and – if you’re lucky with the season – pink fluffy clouds of delicate sakura.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/HcZUQMBdoEY8cNYo9

15/04/2025

The big part of Southern Tokushima is located on the shore of the Pacific Ocean. Local waters are exceptionally clean, and local ocean view are exceptionally beautiful. One of the most popular activities for locals and nearby residents is, of course, fishing. From the shore or from a rock, from a boat or from an offshore fishing floats - probably no fisherman will leave such scenic beauty without attention.

One day, we had a chance to spend a great time in Tsubaki Bay, not far from Anan City. From Tsubaki Domari Fishing Port we took a boat to the tsuri-ikada fishing rafts, swaying gently in the vicinity of Cape Kamoda. We were divided into two teams, and, showing confidence and excitement, the men took up an area about 500 meters away from us.

Following the instructions of Hosokawa-san, an ardent fishing enthusiast, the female team learned to fish, enjoyed the scenery and took MILLIONS of photos. Collective squeals echoed through the surroundings every time one of us got a bite. How happy we all were when the first (and only) girl caught her first fish!

Time flew by and we went back to the fish port and had to wait for the boat to bring the rest of the team back. During this time we pet all the local cats, watched a beautiful heron that decided to pose for us, and even cheered for Hosokawa-san, who took a lively part in a spontaneous fishing competition with a local grandpa. What a lovely day!

Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/VWnJLrbjwTrCvyG16

12/04/2025

Myoken Ipponzakura Tree, Mugi Town, Tokushima prefecture, Shikoku

The locals are rightfully proud and take great care of their century-old sakura tree. It grew here by some miracle - it was not planted here on purpose. Due to the fact that there are no other similar trees nearby, the locals assume that the miracle seed was brought here by migratory birds. The ideal conditions - the forest floor, plenty of sunshine and no other trees nearby - allowed the tree to spread its wings in all directions and grow into a magnificent sakura tree.

Earlier this week, the tree was in full bloom.

Location
https://maps.app.goo.gl/AhdPm6tPewnb4YR97?g_st=com.google.maps.preview.copy

08/04/2025

Gorgeous sakura trees are now blooming all over South Tokushima. Everywhere you look, cherry blossoms greet the traveler along the roads, in temple gardens, and of course in parks. I love walking in the residential areas of the surrounding towns. They always bring some new impressions, uncover a place never noticed before.

That’s how I found another place to admire cherry blossoms in Minami Town, along the Hiwasa River. From a nearby bridge I could see the pagoda of Yakuoji Temple and the almost entirely pink hill of the temple park, dotted with flowering trees. A slow stroll along the river is like a treat in its own , but then... A sudden splash of water revealed the presence of a duck family engaged in a swim race! Who shall I cheer for?

Hiwasa River, Minami Town, Kaifu District, Tokushima Prefecture, Shikoku
https://maps.app.goo.gl/hQfo3xV1dLamDMTi6

Deep South Tokushima, Japan