25/02/2016
Simply the journey to the ancient Rakhaing (Arakanese) capital of Mrauk Oo (Myohaung) – 65 km upstream by boat from Sittwe on increasingly narrow water – gives a sense of time and place to this lovely area in the foothill of the Mountains. Once in Mrauk Oo, its 150 or so temples stand atop, under and between rounded hillocks so curved and perfect they look like they are from a child’s drawing.
“In durability, architectural skill and ornamentations, Mrauk Oo temples far surpass those on the banks of the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River”, remarked by Dr. Forchhammer, a renowned 19th century archeologist, in his famous book entitled “Antiquities of Arakan”. Mrauk Oo is a historical site where visitors can also witness edifices, sculptures, moats, city walls, fortresses, reservoirs, city gates, etc., still standing in various parts of the city as a mute evidence to the glory of an erstwhile Rakhaing Kingdom. The city of Mrauk Oo was strengthened by its 30 km long city walls and fortifications.
The old city is intersected by several chaungs (creeks and canals), the main source of transport and water. Much daily activity seems to be taken up with water trips. Instead of the usual clay pots or rectangular oil cans, Mrauk Oo residents carry shiny aluminium water pots on their hips.
Since 1996, the government has funded a massive restoration of Mrauk Oo. So far 37 temples have been restored of 145 planned. Not all visitors (or residents) share enthusiasm for how they look. One-time cracked stupas now look as if they’re made of potters’ clay.
One of the most interesting times to visit Mrauk Oo is during the huge weeklong Phara Pwè (pagoda festival) held near the Sh*tthaung Phara in mid-May.
Some harmless characters are likely to find you to say “hi”. There’s a “literature man” who makes a point to chat with all foreigners, and another guy who likes to murmur in various languages in your presence. Curiously, local children call out “Tar Tar” (bye bye) and wave.
