18/02/2026
In November this year, we launch “The Great Hooghly Bazaar” – a literary journey up Bengal’s mightiest river.
We will be joined on the river by historian Robert Ivermee, author of “Hooghly: The Global History of a River”.
In his book, Robert writes:
“During its time in the global spotlight, the Hooghly was witness to the best and worst of human nature. It saw curiosity, generosity, and friendship, along with beauty and creativity in the production of art and literature or scientific and technological innovation. Simultaneously, it witnessed violence, cruelty, greed, and exploitation, often accompanied by pretensions of cultural, religious, or racial superiority.”
Bengal was one of the richest provinces within the Mughal Empire (1526-1857), governed by the Nawabs in Murshidabad, on the eastern banks of the Hooghly River, 200 kilometres north of where today lies Kolkata.
Five hundred years ago, the Portuguese were the first Europeans to arrive in Bengal by sea, initiating a period of upheaval and destruction. Word had spread among traders that Bengal was a land of abundant natural wealth. In 1580, the Portuguese secured permission from the Mughal Emperor Akbar for the foundation of a Portuguese settlement at the highest point on the river that seafaring vessels could safely navigate. This settlement became the city of Hooghly.
Robert writes that “the boom of Portuguese Hooghly would last just fifty years.” Emperor Shah Jahan, grandson of Akbar, was concerned by the growth of Portuguese influence. In 1632, his forces destroyed the city. However, a precedent had been set.
Towards the end of the 1600s, the Danish had settled at Serampore and the French at Chandannagar, both on the western banks of the river. While the efforts of Danish missionaries ultimately withered, the ideas of the lumières birthed with the French Revolution, were later elevated as a counterweight to British imperialism. Robert argues that the settlement of Chandannagar was championed as an island of liberty, equality and fraternity in “an English-dominated sea of despotism and despair.”
In the twentieth century, ideas of representative government and human rights rooted in Enlightenment philosophy would be mobilised by Indian nationalists in the guise of the Bengal Renaissance.
Robert will be with us throughout our 7 days on the River Hooghly, taking part in a programme of curated talks and panel discussion with other writers, filmmakers and environmentalists who’ve thought deeply about the world through which this river runs.
Booking is now open. Contact us to see the full itinerary and reserve your cabin.
More here: https://www.sampantravel.com/journeys/specialised/great-hooghly-bazaar/