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Bidmytrip, Chakupat, Ward No./10, Kathmandu (2026)

19/10/2026

What began as a mountain ascent in the Chilean Andes ended in tragedy when an avalanche struck a group of seven mountaineers.

At approximately 2:30 p.m. on October 17, 2026, they were swept by an avalanche into the freezing waters of Laguna del Inca, near Ski Portillo in Chile. Three were killed and four injured.

THE ASCENT AND AVALANCHE

The group had traveled from Santiago for a privately organized expedition toward the summit of Cerro Los Tres Hermanos, where they reportedly planned to spend the night.

According to Chile's Investigative Police (PDI), the mountaineers were experienced and familiar with the area.

The PDI reported that they had decided to turn back out of concern about avalanche danger when the snow slide struck.

RESCUE OPERATION AND VICTIMS

Ski Portillo's rescue team and Chilean police (Carabineros) arrived approximately 10 minutes after the emergency alert, rescuing four survivors.

Two of the survivors, a man and a woman, were hospitalized with hypothermia and bruising. One was evacuated by helicopter before being transferred by ambulance to a hospital in Los Andes.

Two of the three deceased mountaineers were identified as Magdalena Acuña Jiménez and Rodrigo Peña Troncoso, both members of Santiago's Andino Club Pamir.

RECOVERY EFFORTS AND SAFETY CONCERNS

Two bodies were recovered on October 17, while the third victim's body remained unrecovered in Laguna del Inca.

More than 40 personnel from Chile's Navy, police, Army and investigative authorities participated in the recovery operation. Divers and remotely operated underwater vehicles were deployed, but the lake's frozen surface complicated the search.

On October 18, authorities suspended operations due to worsening weather and the risk of further avalanches. The search is scheduled to resume on October 22, weather permitting.

The avalanche occurred outside Ski Portillo's designated skiing area. Authorities are investigating the circumstances surrounding the incident.

Our condolences go out to the families, friends and mountaineering community affected by this tragedy.

15/10/2026

Weeks of preparation and route-fixing efforts ended in retreat as heavy snowfall, strong winds, and avalanche danger forced expedition teams to abandon their summit attempts on Dhaulagiri.

Nepal's Department of Tourism issued permits to 36 foreign climbers across five teams for Dhaulagiri (8,167m), the world's seventh-highest mountain. No successful summit has been reported this autumn.

PREPARATION AND ROPE-FIXING EFFORTS

Heavy snowfall in late September deposited up to three metres of snow on Dhaulagiri, burying climbing routes and camps. Several expeditions temporarily withdrew before returning in early October as conditions improved.

High-altitude guides resumed clearing buried ropes and extending the summit route. By October 7, ropes reportedly extended around 400 metres beyond Camp III.

However, fresh snowfall on October 7–8 and strong winds on October 10 disrupted preparations for a final summit push.

DANGEROUS CONDITIONS FORCE RETREAT

Makalu Lakpa Sherpa, who led the rope-fixing team, climbed to around 6,700 metres to assess conditions before deciding that slab avalanche risks were too high. According to Lakpa, forecasts offered only two favourable days, October 11–12, while a safe summit attempt and descent would require at least five days.

Seven Summit Treks director Chhang Dawa Sherpa explained that conditions were worse than forecast, with powerful winds and extremely low temperatures making further progress unsafe.

By October 12, expeditions operated by Seven Summit Treks, 8K Expeditions, and 14 Peaks Expedition had abandoned their summit attempts.

Polish ski mountaineer Andrzej Bargiel also abandoned his separate summit and ski-descent attempt on October 13.

CONTROVERSY OVER ROPE FIXING

The decision to halt rope fixing sparked disagreements among climbers. Australian climber Paul Clarke alleged that the operation had stalled after high-profile clients associated with Seven Summit Treks abandoned their summit plans.

Singaporean climber Vincere Zeng also questioned the timing of the withdrawal, arguing that weather forecasts suggested a possible climbing window around October 11–13. Both climbers reported that Sherpas retrieving equipment had encountered favourable conditions up to Camp III, although Zeng acknowledged that the higher slopes might still have been unsafe.

Makalu Lakpa defended his decision, emphasizing that his primary responsibility was his team's safety, while other expedition leaders were responsible for their own climbing decisions.

Seven Summit Treks maintained that its rope-fixing operation was voluntary and undertaken for its own teams. Although the company said other operators were free to continue independently, Vincere Zeng explained that her smaller expedition team lacked the manpower to take over the remaining rope fixing, leaving them unable to proceed as planned.

Allegations that factors other than safety influenced the decision to stop rope fixing remain unverified.

With the remaining summit attempts abandoned, Dhaulagiri's autumn 2026 climbing season ended without a reported successful ascent.

14/10/2026

Slovenian mountaineer Marko Prezelj has spent decades pioneering difficult new routes across the Himalayas and Karakoram, establishing himself as one of the most influential figures in modern alpinism.

A mountain guide, climbing instructor, and photographer, he is known for his commitment to lightweight alpine-style climbing, favoring minimal reliance on fixed ropes and large support teams.

EARLY MOUNTAINEERING ACHIEVEMENTS

In 1988, Prezelj and Rado Nadvešnik reached the summit of Cho Oyu (8,188m) as part of a Slovenian expedition that completed the first ascent of its north face.

In 1991, he and Andrej Štremfelj established a new route on Kangchenjunga South (8,476m), reaching the summit after five days of climbing without supplemental oxygen. Their achievement earned them the inaugural Piolet d’Or in 1992.

In October 1992, the pair made the first ascent of Melungtse (7,181m) in Tibet.

In 2001, Prezelj and American climber Stephen Koch established Light Traveler on Denali’s southwest face in Alaska, completing the climb and descent in a 51-hour round trip from the 14,200-foot camp on the West Buttress route.

CHOMOLHARI AND KARAKORAM EXPEDITIONS

In October 2006, Prezelj and Boris Lorenčič established a new 1,950-metre route on Chomolhari’s northwest pillar, reaching the 7,326-metre summit after battling strong winds, steep ice, and difficult mixed terrain. Their round trip from base camp took six days.

The achievement earned them the 2007 Piolet d’Or. However, Prezelj publicly criticized the competitive nature of mountaineering awards, questioning the practice of ranking fundamentally different climbing achievements.

In September 2007, he joined Steve House and Vince Anderson for the first ascent of K7 West (6,858m) via its southeast face in Pakistan’s Karakoram.

HAGSHU AND CERRO KISHTWAR ASCENTS

In September 2014, Prezelj, Aleš Česen, and Luka Lindič made the first ascent of Hagshu’s north face, establishing a 1,350-metre route in India’s Kishtwar Himalaya.

After 23 hours of climbing through deep snow and brittle ice, they bivouacked near 6,320m before reaching the summit the following afternoon. The ascent earned them a Piolet d’Or in 2015.

In October 2015, Prezelj returned to the region with Hayden Kennedy, Urban Novak, and Manu Pellissier to establish Light Before Wisdom, a 1,200-metre route on Cerro Kishtwar’s (6,173m) previously unclimbed east face.

Their climb earned Prezelj his fourth Piolet d’Or in 2016, making him the first mountaineer to receive the award four times.

LATER EXPEDITIONS AND RECOGNITION

In 2023, Prezelj received the Paul Preuss Prize in recognition of his mountaineering achievements and commitment to traditional alpine climbing principles.

In 2024, he joined Manu Pellissier and Archil Badriashvili in India's Garhwal Himalaya, making the first ascent of Nanda Shori (6,344m) via its east face and establishing Blue Sheep Couloir, a new 1,000-metre route on Changuch’s (6,322m) northeast face.

Born on October 13, 1965, Marko Prezelj turned 61 yesterday.

12/10/2026

A single failed anchor sent Pierre Béghin to his death on Annapurna's South Face, leaving his climbing partner, Jean-Christophe Lafaille, facing a seemingly impossible descent alone, without most of their technical climbing equipment.

On October 11, 1992, the two French mountaineers were retreating from an attempt to establish a new route on the 8,091-metre mountain.

Béghin, 41, was an accomplished Himalayan climber with major ascents of Kangchenjunga, Makalu and K2. Lafaille, 27, was undertaking his first Himalayan expedition.

PREPARATION AND THE ASCENT

On October 7, the pair began their alpine-style ascent of Annapurna's South Face without supplemental oxygen. Frequent rockfall forced them to climb mainly at night.

By October 10, they had reached approximately 7,300 metres, where they spent the night on a narrow ledge carved into steep ice.

The following day, they climbed to around 7,500 metres before worsening weather forced them to abandon their summit attempt.

THE FATAL FALL

During their descent, at approximately 7,200 metres, Béghin set up a rappel using a single camming device anchored in the rock.

Béghin had descended around 25 metres when the anchor failed, sending him to his death along with the rope and most of their technical equipment.

Left alone without a rope or climbing protection, Lafaille carefully climbed down ice and rock as steep as 80 degrees, eventually reaching their previous bivouac at 7,000 metres.

LAFAILLE'S SOLO DESCENT AND SURVIVAL

After spending October 12 at the bivouac, Lafaille resumed descending on October 13, using 20 metres of thin rope he had found there.

He improvised rappel anchors using tent pegs and continued his descent despite the constant danger of rockfall and avalanches.

That afternoon, a falling rock struck Lafaille and broke his right arm. He splinted the injury himself and continued descending the following day, using his uninjured arm and even his teeth to manage the rope during short rappels.

On October 15, he reached Advanced Base Camp, only to find its tent buried under snow. He continued down to a Slovenian expedition's Base Camp, where two doctors treated his open fracture.

A helicopter evacuation to Kathmandu was requested. Lafaille had survived four days alone on Annapurna's South Face following Béghin's fatal fall, completing one of the most remarkable self-rescues in Himalayan mountaineering history.

11/10/2026

Forty years ago, Czech mountaineer Miroslav Šmíd climbed Ama Dablam’s towering West Face alone, reaching its 6,812-metre summit and spending the night atop the mountain.

The 34-year-old was leading an 11-member expedition. He became the first Czechoslovak mountaineer to reach Ama Dablam’s summit.

PREPARATION AND THE SOLO ASCENT

The expedition established Base Camp at approximately 4,600 metres on September 22, 1986.

After studying the West Face, Šmíd chose a route previously attempted by Peter Hillary’s expedition in 1979. During that attempt, an ice avalanche killed climber Ken Hyslop and seriously injured Hillary.

On October 9, Šmíd began his solo ascent, spending his first night at approximately 5,300 metres.

At around 2 a.m. on October 10, he continued climbing, reaching approximately 6,500 metres by late afternoon, where he spent his second night.

Climbing alpine-style without fixed camps above Base Camp, he encountered steep rock, snow and ice, with slopes reaching 80 degrees and technical sections graded UIAA IV+.

SUMMIT AND OVERNIGHT BIVOUAC

On October 11, Šmíd completed the final section of the West Face, reaching Ama Dablam’s 6,812-metre summit at 11:10 p.m.

He spent his third consecutive night on the mountain, bivouacking directly on the summit.

For the descent, he chose the Southwest Ridge rather than retracing his ascent route.

THE DANGEROUS DESCENT

On October 12, Šmíd followed the ridge down to approximately 6,400 metres before turning onto the South Face.

The exposed descent involved rock and snow slopes reaching 70 degrees, with technical sections graded UIAA IV. With limited climbing equipment, he faced considerable difficulties navigating the steep terrain.

He eventually reached approximately 6,150 metres, where he spent his fourth night on the mountain.

On October 13, he continued downward, reaching a Yugoslav expedition’s Base Camp at around 10 a.m. He returned to his own Base Camp later that day, completing the descent safely.

09/10/2026

In just 28 hours, Ueli Steck reported climbing and descending Annapurna's towering South Face alone, completing one of the boldest solo climbs of his career in a single continuous push.

The extraordinary feat became one of the most celebrated and debated achievements in modern alpinism.

On October 9, 2013, Steck reported completing a new route on the approximately 2,500-metre-high face without supplemental oxygen.

The route followed a line left unfinished by Pierre Béghin and Jean-Christophe Lafaille in 1992, when Béghin died after a rappel anchor failed during their descent.

PREPARATION AND THE SOLO DECISION

During a 2007 attempt, falling rock knocked Steck unconscious and sent him tumbling roughly 300 metres down the face. Heavy snowfall and avalanche danger forced another retreat in 2008.

Returning in 2013 with Canadian climber Don Bowie, Steck spent weeks acclimatizing and caching supplies.

They set off at approximately 5:30 a.m. on October 8, but Bowie turned back near the base of the South Face, considering the terrain too dangerous to climb unroped. Steck continued alone.

THE CLIMB AND SUMMIT

Moving quickly with minimal equipment, Steck encountered strong winds and blowing snow. A blast of spindrift caused him to lose his camera and an insulated glove.

Above 6,800 metres, worsening winds forced him to descend roughly 100 metres and shelter inside a crevasse.

When conditions improved after sunset, he resumed climbing by headlamp, negotiating steep ice and exposed rock through the night.

Steck reported reaching Annapurna's 8,091-metre summit at approximately 1 a.m. on October 9, claiming the first solo ascent of the mountain's South Face.

DESCENT AND CONTROVERSY

Steck descended the same route, mostly downclimbing and making just eight rappels with a thin 6mm rope.

After a brief stop at his tent, he returned to the foot of the face, completing the reported 28-hour round trip.

However, his summit claim became controversial. Having lost his camera and not activated his GPS watch, Steck had no photographic or GPS evidence to independently verify the ascent.

He maintained that he had reached the summit and received the prestigious Piolet d'Or in 2014 for his reported ascent, even as questions surrounding its verification persisted.

08/10/2026

On Everest's remote eastern side stood a vast wall of rock and ice that had never been successfully climbed to the summit.

Known as the Kangshung Face, it was Everest's last unclimbed major face, notorious for its steep rock buttresses, dangerous ice slopes and frequent avalanches.

THE ROUTE AND ITS CHALLENGES

In 1981, an American expedition spent nearly five weeks establishing a route up a steep buttress, a prominent ridge of rock and ice projecting from the Kangshung Face. However, unstable snow and avalanche danger higher up forced the climbers to retreat.

In August 1983, a new expedition led by James Morrissey, including members of the earlier team, returned to complete the unfinished climb.

The lower face presented major technical challenges, with unstable rock, steep ice gullies and an overhanging rock wall. Among its most dangerous sections was the "Bowling Alley," a gully frequently swept by falling rock and ice.

The climbers reused fixed ropes from 1981 and employed hauling systems, including a motor-powered winch, to transport supplies up the steep buttress. Near its top, they established Helmet Camp at approximately 6,550 metres.

Above the camp, they crossed avalanche-prone snow slopes and established additional camps, the highest at approximately 7,860 metres. Clear weather in early October provided an opportunity for the summit attempt.

THE HISTORIC SUMMIT

On October 8, Carlos Buhler, Kim Momb and Louis Reichardt began their final summit push.

Knee-deep snow slowed their progress, and it took nearly six hours to reach Everest's Southeast Ridge, where their route joined the normal Nepal-side ascent.

They continued past the South Summit and climbed the famous Hillary Step.

At around 2:30 p.m., all three reached Everest's 8,848-metre summit, completing the first ascent of Everest's Kangshung Face.

THE SECOND SUMMIT PUSH AND RETREAT

On October 9, George Lowe, Jay Cassell and Daniel Reid also reached the summit, bringing the expedition's total to six successful summiters.

On October 10, a powerful storm ended further summit attempts and forced the expedition to retreat.

The descent brought further danger the following day when Reid accidentally stepped off an ice cliff and fell approximately 15 metres into deep snow. His teammates managed to pull him to safety.

The climbers rappelled down the steep lower buttress, and all members of the American expedition returned safely.

07/10/2026

From K2 to Nanga Parbat and Lhotse, Benoît Chamoux made fast ascents of the world’s highest mountains the defining theme of his climbing career.

The French mountaineer emerged as one of the leading high-altitude speed climbers of the 1980s and early 1990s.

His first major 8,000-metre successes came in 1985, when he summited Gasherbrum II on June 15 and Gasherbrum I only seven days later.

SPEED ON THE 8,000ERS

In 1986, Chamoux climbed Broad Peak, reaching the summit and returning to Base Camp roughly 24 hours after setting out.

Later that season came K2. Using established tracks and equipment on the Abruzzi Ridge, Chamoux climbed from Advanced Base Camp to the 8,611-metre summit in about 23 hours, one of the defining speed ascents of his career.

In 1987, he followed with another major speed ascent on Nanga Parbat, reaching the summit about 23 hours after leaving Base Camp.

Chamoux continued adding 8,000-metre peaks while pursuing all 14. In 1994, he made another major speed ascent on Lhotse, reaching its 8,516-metre summit about 30 hours after leaving Base Camp.

THE FOURTEEN-PEAK PURSUIT

By spring 1995, Chamoux was credited with 13 of the 14 eight-thousanders.

Several of those ascents, including Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Dhaulagiri and Makalu, were later questioned under stricter summit criteria.

Kangchenjunga was the final mountain left in Chamoux’s pursuit of all 14 eight-thousanders.

THE FINAL CLIMB

On October 5, 1995, Chamoux and Pierre Royer set out from around 7,800 metres on Kangchenjunga without supplemental oxygen. Erhard Loretan and Jean Troillet were also making a summit attempt and soon moved ahead, while Chamoux and Royer fell behind.

By late afternoon, Royer abandoned his summit attempt from exhaustion. About an hour later, Chamoux radioed that he too was too exhausted to continue and could not find the correct descent route. By then, the two had lost sight of each other.

Chamoux spent the night high on the ridge. At around 8 a.m. on October 6, he contacted Troillet by radio and received directions to reach the col.

Chamoux was later seen reaching the col. He then disappeared from view on Kangchenjunga’s north side.

Neither Benoît Chamoux nor Pierre Royer was ever seen again.

06/10/2026

More than 130 years ago, Hans Meyer and Ludwig Purtscheller completed the first confirmed ascent of Africa’s highest mountain, Kilimanjaro.

Meyer had already failed on the mountain in 1887, when steep ice and inadequate equipment forced him back. A second expedition in 1888 was disrupted during the Abushiri Revolt, when he was captured and later released after a ransom was paid.

THE THIRD ATTEMPT

Meyer returned in 1889 with Austrian mountaineer Ludwig Purtscheller. Their expedition established a series of camps and supply points to move equipment and food higher on the mountain.

On October 3, they made their first summit push. Hard ice slowed their progress, forcing Purtscheller to repeatedly cut steps with his axe.

They reached the crater rim at around 5,870 metres, but the true summit was still higher and farther away. Exhaustion, altitude sickness and the risk of an exposed bivouac forced them to retreat.

They returned to camp after dark suffering from headaches, slight snow blindness and severe sunburn.

THE SUMMIT PUSH

After recovering, they moved back up the mountain and established a higher bivouac at roughly 4,600 metres.

At around 3 a.m. on October 6, they set out again under moonlight. Many of the steps cut during their earlier attempt were still usable, allowing them to make faster progress across the ice.

By around 9 a.m., they had regained their previous high point. At approximately 10:30 a.m., Meyer and Purtscheller reached Kilimanjaro’s highest point.

Meyer planted a small German flag and named the summit Kaiser-Wilhelm-Spitze, now known as 5,895-metre Uhuru Peak. The summit was even more memorable for Purtscheller, it was his 40th birthday.

THE DESCENT

They stayed only briefly before beginning their descent as clouds moved in, reaching their high bivouac later that afternoon.

The expedition continued afterward. They later attempted Mawenzi, Kilimanjaro’s rugged 5,149-metre second-highest peak, before returning to the main summit area on October 18 to enter and study the crater.

Their October 6 ascent became a landmark in the early history of African mountaineering.

06/10/2026

After years of failed attempts, Dhaulagiri’s long and technical Southwest Buttress was finally completed all the way to the summit in alpine style.

On October 6, 1988, Zoltán Demján, Yuri Moiseev and Kazbek Valiev reached Dhaulagiri’s 8,167-metre summit, completing the first full ascent of the Southwest Buttress route.

Several teams had tried before them. An attempt in 1978 reached roughly 7,200 metres, another in 1980 reached around 7,500 metres, and a 1985 attempt reached approximately 7,250 metres.

THE PLAN

Demján, Moiseev and Valiev came into the expedition already well acclimatized from recent climbs on 7,000-metre peaks in the Tien Shan Range.

Base Camp was established on September 16 at around 3,600 metres, but heavy snowfall delayed their progress.

Once conditions improved, they moved to the Southwest Col at roughly 5,100 metres. On September 29, the three began climbing the buttress in alpine style.

Each carried a pack of around 15 kilograms containing the food, fuel, bivouac gear and technical equipment needed for the climb.

CLIMBING THE BUTTRESS

The Southwest Buttress rises for roughly 2,200 metres, followed by another long stretch of snow slopes leading toward Dhaulagiri’s summit.

The lower sections involved rock towers, mixed terrain and narrow ridges, while the hardest climbing came between roughly 6,750 and 7,200 metres.

The hardest sections were graded around UIAA VI and A2, with terrain reaching angles of up to 90 degrees at extreme altitude.

During the ascent, they made a series of bivouacs as they worked their way higher up the buttress.

Their highest bivouac was a snow cave at around 7,350 metres, where they spent the night before the final summit push.

SUMMIT AND DESCENT

On October 6, the three left their snow cave and continued toward the summit.

A storm began at around 11:15 a.m., but they kept climbing and reached Dhaulagiri’s 8,167-metre summit late that day.

They then began descending the same route and returned to their snow cave at around 7,350 metres that night.

Over the following days, they continued down the Southwest Buttress, much of it by rappel, making several more bivouacs before reaching the Southwest Col.

They finally returned to Base Camp on October 10.

Bidmytrip

19/10/2026

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