18/08/2026
A Japanese team made history by completing the first ascent of K2’s remote and formidable North Ridge, but the achievement was followed by tragedy on the descent.
On August 14, 1982, Naoe Sakash*ta, Hiroshi Yoshino and Yukihiro Yanagisawa reached K2’s 8,611-meter summit from the Chinese side without supplemental oxygen. They were part of a Japanese Mountaineering Association expedition led by Isao Shinkai and Masatsugu Konishi.
PLANNING AND THE CLIMB
The expedition included 14 climbers and 29 Japanese support personnel. On May 5, the team established a lower staging camp called Base Home on the Shaksgam River at about 3,855 meters.
From there, they transported roughly four tons of equipment about 10 miles to Base Camp on the K2 Glacier, established at around 4,900 meters on May 29.
Serious climbing began on June 9, following the North Ridge along the edge of the Northwest Face. Progress was slow, with bad weather affecting 22 of 34 days during a crucial stretch of the expedition.
The team established Camp I at about 5,790 meters, Camp II at 6,600 meters, Camp III at 7,550 meters, and Camp IV at roughly 7,850 meters. Fixed ropes were placed to around 8,000 meters before the climbers returned to Base Camp to rest and prepare for the final summit push, which began on August 9.
SUMMIT PUSH
On August 14, Sakash*ta, Yoshino, Yanagisawa and Takashi Ozaki set out for the summit without supplemental oxygen.
Ozaki turned back at around 8,200 meters, while the other three continued above the fixed ropes with little equipment, climbing largely separately and unroped.
They traversed onto the broad snowfield high on the North Face and continued toward the summit. After roughly 12 hours of climbing, Sakash*ta reached the top first, followed shortly by Yanagisawa, with Yoshino arriving about an hour later.
With all three reaching the summit, the team had completed the first ascent of K2’s North Ridge.
DESCENT AND TRAGEDY
The three were forced to spend the night extremely high on the mountain. Yoshino bivouacked at around 8,400 meters, while Sakash*ta and Yanagisawa stopped near 8,350 meters.
Yanagisawa had no down jacket, so Sakash*ta held him through the freezing night to help keep him warm.
The next morning, Yoshino joined them. Sakash*ta descended first, while Yoshino and Yanagisawa waited for members of the second summit group, who were bringing them a rope and hot tea.
When the pair reached the fixed ropes, Yoshino stopped to untie and straighten the fixed rope. When he looked up again, Yanagisawa had disappeared.
His jacket was spotted on August 16 far below on the North Face at around 5,100 meters, indicating that he had fallen. Avalanche danger made a search impossible.
SEVEN CLIMBERS REACH THE SUMMIT
On August 15, Kazushige Takami, Haruichi Kawamura, Tatsuji Shigeno and Hironobu Kamuro also reached K2’s summit via the new North Ridge.
Before continuing upward, they had helped the descending climbers by bringing them a rope and hot tea.
Their success brought the expedition’s total to seven summiters, all without supplemental oxygen.
ANOTHER LOSS
The expedition later suffered another loss. On August 29, expedition doctor Tosh*taka Sakano climbed a small peak behind Base Home but failed to return.
His body was found on August 31. The expedition report concluded that he had apparently fallen near the top of the peak, injured himself, and later died from exposure while attempting to return.
The 1982 Japanese expedition established one of K2’s major historic routes after months of difficult logistics, prolonged storms and climbing at extreme altitude. Its success, however, came at a heavy cost.