Calder & Lawson Tours

05/06/2025

Our journey through Central Asia has so far crossed hot deserts, but after another border crossing into Tajikistan we were met by totally different scenery. Mountains connecting to the Pamir Range reared up above turbulent rivers. We crossed two passes at 2,700 metres above sea level.

We were not only following the Silk Road caravans but earlier figures. We spent the night at a lake named after Alexander the Great, the Macedonian general who passed through on his way to what is now India. We stayed in a city thought to have been founded by the Persian Cyrus the Great. Old footsteps indeed.

03/06/2025

Our group of enthusiastic walkers made the final walk into Santiago de Compostela alongside many other pilgrims reaching their goal. We felt satisfied to have walked on three different Camino trails: the most popular Camino Frances, the coastal path, Camino Norte and the quieter path in the mountains of Asturias and Galicia called the Camino Primitivo. About 240 kms in cool but fine weather. We had some amazing meals in Michelin Star restaurants and fun times eating tapas in colourful markets and bars. Our accommodation in historic Paradors, restored monasteries and palacio added a lot to our adventure in Northern Spain. Camino walking is addictive. I wonder what our next Camino adventure will be.

01/06/2025

Samarkand. The name epitomises the Silk Road, and not without reason. Founded more than 2,500 years ago, it reached its peak about 700 years ago. The buildings from that period take your breath away, outside and inside.

We also spent time learning how silk paper is made (and learned that it doesn’t contain silk), and joined a family to learn about making the national dish plov. We judged this the best plov of our Central Asia journey so far. A visit to a winery expanded our knowledge of Uzbekistan wines.

31/05/2025

The Silk Road began to fall out of use close to half a millennium ago, but everywhere on our Central Asia journey we are encountering the people, practices and crafts of when this was the world’s greatest trading route.

Without exception we are welcomed warmly.

29/05/2025

Our Silk Road journey through Central Asia has brought us to Bukhara. Settled more than 2,500 years ago, it developed into an important hub on the Silk Road as a centre of trade, culture and religion.

Surrounded by desert, it enjoys abundant water that flows through the city in canals and is stored in ponds, lending a tranquil atmosphere to the old town. Travellers’ inns, public baths, mosques and learning institutions from centuries ago make this a UNESCO world heritage site.

Our comfortable hotel, converted from a two-century-old merchant’s house, was an oasis for us at the end of each day.

28/05/2025

An evening in Khiva.

26/05/2025

Our Central Asia tour is now well and truly on the Silk Road. First settled more than 2,500 years ago, Khiva in Uzbekistan later became an important hub on the Silk Road.

Goods came from all around on caravans of camels and were traded in the town. We saw inns (caravanserai) built to house the itinerant traders. Later mosques, madrasa (learning institutions) and mausoleums made the town a spiritual centre of the Islamic world. We also visited the palace of the khans who ruled Khiva until 1919.

Khiva isn’t just a tourist attraction. Just a block away from the main highlights local residents go about their daily life.

24/05/2025

24/05/2025

Our journey through Central Asia took us to the remote desert town of Nukus in western Uzbekistan, to see an extraordinary art gallery that’s been dubbed ‘The Louvre in the sands’.

Ethnologist and artist Igor Savitsky sought out and acquired tens of thousands of pieces, especially Russian avant garde paintings and works banned by socialist authorities.

An exceptionally good guide helped to bring the collection alive. A very memorable visit.

23/05/2025

There are far more outlandish edifices in Ashgabat than shown in our previous posts. Presidential palaces, meeting halls and government offices (including for the Ministry of Horses and Ministry of Carpets) were very impressive, but none may be photographed.

But Turkmenistan is about much more than its capital. A short flight to the north of the country showed us more normal life. Everyone was friendly and welcoming. A country is its people, not its government.

21/05/2025

First impressions of Turkmenistan’s capital city.