07/01/2026
Reinhold Messner ❤️
One of the greatest mountaineers of all time
Reinhold Messner was born on 17 September 1944 in South Tyrol, Italy. He grew up in Villnöß, where he spent his early years climbing in the Alps and developing a deep love for the Dolomites. His father, Josef Messner, a schoolteacher, introduced him to mountaineering at a young age. Although strict and demanding, his father played a crucial role in shaping Reinhold’s discipline and determination.
By the age of 13, Messner was already completing difficult climbs in the Eastern Alps, later expanding to other major Alpine peaks. During the 1960s, he emerged as one of the strongest advocates of what later became known as “Alpine-style” mountaineering—climbing with minimal equipment, lightweight gear, and little or no external support. His philosophy rejected the traditional siege style commonly used in the Himalayas. His younger brother Günther Messner and climber Peter Habeler shared and strengthened this vision.
Himalaya and Tragedy
Messner’s first Himalayan expedition was in 1970, when he and Günther climbed Nanga Parbat (8,126 m) via the previously unclimbed Rupal Face. Tragically, Günther died during the descent, and Reinhold barely survived, suffering severe frostbite that cost him several toes. This expedition marked both a historic achievement and a deeply personal loss.
Oxygen-Free and Solo Milestones
In 1975, Messner and Peter Habeler made history by climbing Gasherbrum I (8,068 m) in pure alpine style without supplemental oxygen—a feat once thought impossible.
Their most famous achievement followed in 1978, when Messner and Habeler became the first climbers to summit Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen. Two years later, in 1980, Messner stunned the world again by completing the first solo ascent of Everest, climbing from base camp to summit alone and without oxygen during the monsoon season. He later described the summit moment as the most exhausting experience of his life.
Unmatched High-Altitude Achievements
Messner continued opening new routes and redefining high-altitude climbing. In 1979, he led a successful ascent of K2 (8,611 m), the world’s second-highest mountain. By 1986, he had climbed all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks, becoming the first person in history to do so—many climbed in alpine style and without oxygen.
Beyond the Mountains
Messner’s adventures extended beyond mountaineering. Between 1989–1990, he and Arved Fuchs completed the first unsupported crossing of Antarctica on foot via the South Pole. In 2004, he undertook a solo 2,000 km trek across the Gobi Desert. He later founded the Messner Mountain Museum network in Italy and served in the European Parliament (1999–2004), focusing on environmental and cultural issues.
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Reinhold Messner’s 8,000-Metre Ascents
• 1970 – Nanga Parbat (8,125 m)
First ascent of the Rupal Face; first traverse of the mountain (with Günther Messner)
• 1972 – Manaslu (8,163 m)
First ascent of the South-West Face; first oxygen-free ascent
• 1975 – Gasherbrum I (8,080 m)
First ascent without supplemental oxygen (with Peter Habeler)
• 1978 – Mount Everest (8,848 m)
First oxygen-free ascent (with Peter Habeler)
Nanga Parbat – First solo ascent from base camp via a new route
• 1979 – K2 (8,611 m)
Alpine-style ascent on the Abruzzi Spur
• 1980 – Mount Everest (8,848 m)
First solo ascent without oxygen, new route on the North Face
• 1981 – Shishapangma (8,027 m)
• 1982 – Kangchenjunga (8,586 m) – New route
Gasherbrum II (8,034 m)
Broad Peak (8,051 m)
→ First climber to summit three 8,000ers in one season
• 1983 – Cho Oyu (8,188 m) – New route
• 1984 – Gasherbrum I & II
First traverse of two 8,000-metre peaks without returning to base camp
• 1985 – Annapurna (8,091 m) – New North-West Face
Dhaulagiri (8,167 m)
• 1986 – Makalu (8,485 m)
Lhotse (8,516 m)
→ Completion of all 14 eight-thousanders
