07/07/2026
TUNISIA is a place used to change. Recent history left scars across the landscape, but also helped it to heal into an entirely unique nation. And one I’ve long wanted to visit. A French colony, then a dictatorship, and now a democracy after one of the most successful revolutions across the Arab Spring, this modern history I knew. I had to see the real Tunisia for myself.
It’s surprisingly reachable, with easyJet’s new flight from Newcastle to Enfidha helping you swap drizzle for sizzle in just over three hours. And then 45 minutes from the airport is one of the most authentic and affordable resort towns I’ve ever visited.
Hammamet is not really about manicured beaches, tourist traps and pubs, something I tend to steer clear of. The north-east Tunisian coastline is altogether more interesting.
Hammamet is a five-star place with a three-star price. Staying at Les Orangers Garden Villas and Bungalows was such an eyeopener for me. It had everything you’d want from a quiet beach resort and more, but for less than you’d pay in many popular destinations. Your money buys a lot more in Tunisia, and that’s without even visiting a souk. Speaking of old-fashioned shopping, Hammamet is home to an Old Medina, which is arguably the gem of the region. This beautiful walled section of the city took my breath away.
Dating back centuries, the walls climb up around you, but never feel claustrophobic. White walls, often accented with blue, run around a simplistic but beautiful mosque. Flowers and cacti dot the brickwork, interspersed with traditional doors.
This is the place for holiday shopping. Tea sellers were stationed next to camel wool rugs, against a backdrop of brass plates being hammered in tight alleys. Tunisia has a haggling culture across many shops, but it’s not too intense. If you’ve been to places like Egypt or Turkey, you know the drill. But in old Hammamet, if you don’t want to go in, they’ll leave you alone relatively quickly.
As a female traveller, I was expecting some of the usual calls I’d heard in other countries, urging me into the shop. But every shopkeeper was very respectful, focusing on the wares rather than the fake flattery.
Cats rule the roost in Hammamet. It’s the community’s job to care for the animals, with many curled up on rugs outside, unbothered, enjoying a tray of leftovers or simply sunning themselves in the streets. No one shooed them away, and they all looked remarkably well-kept. While Old Hammamet has a labyrinthine feel, the sea air lured me out whenever I needed a break, taking me to turquoise water as tranquil as the Amalfi Coast. Every part of the coast felt like being in a different country. From the Costa del Sol to Cannes, from Santorini to Sorrento, Tunisia’s coastline delivers a medley of Europe’s beaches, with far fewer people on the beach and a much lower price for a cocktail.
Then, of course, there is the unmissable Carthage.
The Unesco World Heritage Site was once the centre of this ancient world.
Seeing such a well-preserved site in person blew my mind. Walls came up around me, stairs leading to floors that no longer exist, pillars toppled, but still intact.
I come from the North East where Roman ruins are a little more ruinous than this glorious ancient Carthage. I could have spent the whole day wandering under arches, admiring a view that once greeted the Phoenicians and Romans.
The bones of Tunisia are old. It’s a country that values its past as much as its present, and wears that pride on its sleeve through its people.
Everyone I met was so willing to share what they knew about their home. I loved every story more than the last.
This was especially true in the town of Sidi Bou Said, first established as a settlement between the 12th and 13th centuries, and the cultural heart of Tunisia. While visiting, you’d be forgiven for mistaking the structures for Greece, with its bright whites and blues set against a stunning coastline and smooth cobbled streets.
Home to many artisans, it evoked memories of Montmartre in Paris in all the right ways. Artists have a number above their shops, and official stamps at the bottom that separate the authentic art from the tourist tat. The plates and painted pottery that feature spirographic patterns resembling peacock feathers, a prominent artistic motif in the region’s ancient history.
Another recurring theme is the food, ancient and unchanged, because it was already perfect. North Africa is home to couscous, but it’s Tunisia that’s home to harissa. This spicy chili paste is becoming more popular in the UK, and for good reason. This aromatic spice mix is great with chicken and olive oil.
Other delights are yet to make it to the UK, I discovered during a farm visit. Mechouia, a spiced pepper salad, was a particular favourite, especially when paired with tabbouleh bread.
Another major draw is the price. In a recent Travel Supermarket ranking of the top 10 holiday destinations for Brits, Tunisia was named cheapest by a fair margin. This was my experience.
Not only is the cost of living relatively low, but with the haggling system, an even better deal is always possible. A far cry from shopping in the UK.
As was the weather. Hammamet in May was a balmy 26°C, cooled by a sea breeze. In summer, temperatures reach the mid-30s, which just makes a dip in the sea all the more refreshing. Temperatures get higher further inland, closer to the Sahara.
The sun being so accessible will be a relief to those who’ve had wallets drained by all-inclusive trips to Spain or Greece.
What my trip to Tunisia taught me is the value of getting out of your comfort zone. While I’d visited Arabic-speaking countries before, this was my first visit since the Spring upended forged tourism links.
Tunisia feels like it has its arms open to people from the UK. Us Brits make up Tunisia’s third-biggest tourist market and, according to locals, one of the only nationalities that likes to tip.
Tunisia is ready to welcome you if you’re ready to give it a go.
Birmingham Post
25.06.2026
