07/19/2025
Last month, I boarded the MV Beluga accompanied by my husband, mother, 5 and 7-year old nephews, best friend, and soon-to-be friends, for 8 days of exploring the eastern Archipelago. Our guide, Darwin, (yes, that’s his real name) loves the transition months between the rainy and dry seasons for the intermingling that happens with wildlife sightings. June was still early season for the Garua, so our days were mild and mostly sunny, and the water temperatures were pleasant since the Humboldt Current had yet to bring the Antarctic cold to the eastern waters of the archipelago. The arrival of nutrient-rich waters made for excellent sightings of hammerhead sharks and large schools of mobula and golden cow-nosed rays. Española hosts the world’s only waved albatross colony, and we observed several pairs reuniting after a season apart with a courtship dance of clacking beaks, swaying heads, and loud honks. 40 years of cruising in the Galapagos has resulted in carefully crafted itineraries with access to top locations, and we achieved all the wildlife highlights of the eastern archipelago, even snorkeling with hunting Galapagos penguins. Our active ship attracted a relatively younger demographic with enough excursions to wipe even my busy nephews every day, including a daily rotation of land, snorkeling, and kayaking excursions. What sets this ship apart from the many is the crew, some of whom have been working together for over 20 years. The warmth and hospitality were matched by flexibility and fun. The kids were glued to Darwin, who would freedive meters below us, backflip off the pangas, and rattle off a well of naturalist knowledge to make his namesake proud. The crossings were mellow with some rocking that didn’t impact our sleep or comfort. We were fortunate to travel with like-minded adventurers, sharing many laughs and creating new memories. Sharing this adventure with my family was one of the most meaningful experiences of my career.